575M - F1 to Gated 6 Manual Conversion

Developed?

I've been trying to help folks (in FChat DM) with wiring issues associated with the conversion wiring. I'm not associated with EAG, but I think I'll need to know how EAG does it (to help folks in the future).

If we could get a definitive answer for this on both the F1 car and the non-converted gated car (i.e. does the immobiliser have to be turned off to crank the engine), that would help us figure out how each car is wired up. On F1 cars, usually the Immobiliser or the RH Motronic ECU (after being activated by the Immobiliser ECU) sends an "OK to start" signal to the F1 TCU on a particular wire. The F1 TCU then allows engine cranking (using its logic for start). i.e. The F1 TCU sends an earth to the starter relay on a different wire. Since the F1 is being removed on converted cars, the starter relay has to get the OK to start signal directly from the Immobiliser ECU or RH Motronic ECU. This is achieved by putting a jumper wire on one of the F1 system connectors. i.e. the two aforementioned wires are joined together.

e.g. on the F430

Image Unavailable, Please Login

This jumper appears on manual cars, too. The plug is part of a common wiring system.

 

575Ms crank fine with immobilizer armed but will not start. When you press the fob in the US, you should get two beeps letting you know the alarm is disarmed and the immobilizer is not active. When you lock her, you should get one beep. This varies with different country alarm kits. See attached alarm manual.

 

Is this for both the manual and the F1, Taz?

I'm trying to find some similarities between the 575 and another (single) F-car of this era, but the 575 seems to be a mixture of several F-cars. Anyway, anything from the 360 up until the option of a manual (gated) car was removed, seem to have this jumper plug.

Image Unavailable, Please Login
The 575 probably has a fixed earth on pin 6 of the jumper plug (like the gated F430). On other cars, pin 6 either goes to the Immobiliser ECU or to the RH Motronic ECU. On cars with F1, the jumper plug is replaced with a wiring harness which goes to the F1 TCU.

To be confirmed.

 

Ian- Believe that is for both, but not 100% sure.

 

I get no beeps at all, but the immobilizer is functional and defeats as it should.

FWIW, I had no issues with mine post conversion. 360 Trev and Sam did the ECU work; perhaps they could be of assistance

 

Alarm siren is likely shot if it is a US model.

 

Same sequence with OEM gated. No chirps, no start…siren shot (battery leak)

 

You mean you can crank the engine without disabling the immobiliser?

Taz, do you have a paddle shift on your car?

 

Correct, the engine cranks but not start. Perhaps the most helpful point I discovered, by desperation, is if the siren has gone tits up, the immobilizer won’t disable in usual manner but will disable with ignition on and then pushing FOB.

 

Great tip, thanks. I wonder if the “ignition on” method bypasses some kind of siren testing process. I’ve noticed on my F355 I can turn the ignition and press the fob, and the siren doesn’t chirp in its usual manner.

 

“Great tip”….. I spent a fair amount of research time looking for a solution to “No chirps…no Start” for 575 that didn’t involve a long flat-bed ride or removing immobilizer/siren, no luck. Fortunately, Monkeys and Typewriters approach provided solution.

 

Ian- Affirmative on the crank, no start. For that reason, whenever I refuel, I lock her to keep myself from getting in, trying to start and only having the engine turn over. 550s will not even crank.

 

Hey Guys,

I'm currently only very briefly checking up on messages as I'm still on vacation with family but I do have developed a full immobilizer delete solution for this era of immobilizer that does work on the 575M, 360, etc. I don't tend to do it often however as it has both pros and cons associated with it.

There are a couple wires which sometimes need to be spliced to bypass a relay (if you cannot crank engine with immo on - which actually depends on model) and most importantly an engine ECU reflash to be done - then the immobilizer is completely eliminated and you can just use your key to start the vehicle without fobs being required.

This is not a solution for everyone however as if you have an electrical problem with the immobilizer itself or want to completely remove it you will unfortunately loose your remote central locking! Only central locking on the key then works. The immobilizer box combines both the key fob receiver function and immobilizer in one unit. This was later corrected on newer models but this generation sucks in that regard.

Trev

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

 

Let me give them a quick call and find out the situation for you ... [emoji106]

 

Dan when you get the car back we need to have a party at your local cars & coffee!

 

My youngest brother is talking about a few cubs games with bobbleheads and if I fly out then I will definitely let you know so I can see your amazingness!

 

Hi Trev… not used this forum before but Fabio said I should get in touch regarding ECU remap as having a new fiammenghi fitted to my 575 tomorrow
Thanks !

 

@teamwill if you use the @360trev with the “@“ that will tag him in the alerts.

Congrats on Fabios set up (love my remote mufflers).

Your profile doesn’t say where you are located in the world (if you don’t mind sharing).
Thanks — Eric

 

#erotica

 

Looks like they are now back on the case!

The dash looks so much better too!