360 Clutch options?

I would stick with OEM and look for a good price

Eurospares has a kit with flywheel for 3k

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Oem works best with F1 since that is what the TCU is programmed to assume. Kevlar might be ok for 3 pedals, but not worth the risk with F1.

 

Both above are very good advice. OEM.

 

I had a client who lived in the hills, real hills and I replaced his second 360 F1 clutch at very close to 100,000 miles only because the transmission input shaft seal went bad and soaked it.

I do not understand dissatisfaction with the OEM clutch.

 

I run a full Kevlar clutch on my Toyota Pickup... "very jerky" is a pretty good description (especially with engagement under around 1500 RPM's). It's not as bad as a full ceramic puck disc, but it's got a good start on it. Fun times in the In-n-Out drive through line, let me tell ya.

Years ago, I looked into putting a dual carbon clutch from Tilton into my 360. However, the biggest issue I ran into is that they require constant adjustment. So if you aren't planning on pulling your gearbox out every other year, then it's probably a bad idea.

I'm with Rifledriver on this one... there shouldn't be anything wrong with the OEM clutch when everything else is in proper adjustment. Unless you are racing your car or drastically increasing engine output, stick with OEM.

Usually clutch disc failure equates to slipping during engagement. Once the surfaces of the disc become burnt, it becomes a vicious downhill spiral. I believe on the 360 F1 transmission, the point of initial slip (PIS) can be adjusted to help reduce wear. Have you checked into that at all? Maybe someone with some first hand experience can comment, as my 360 was manual / gated.

Ray

 

There is actually a great deal of dissatisfaction with a great many people complaining about clutch life. I was not referring to you.

If yours is a 99 with its original TCU its really not possible to correctly set the PIS. With that generation TCU there was no capability to via computer manually enter a PIS number. You had to instruct the TCU to set itself and only a very small minority were capable of setting a good number. The very next generation gave us the ability to manually set them. We were able to get them replaced under warranty. Ferrari was actually quite good about letting us do that. and we changed every one that came to my old dealer for service. Given that, it really surprises me how many of that early version are still in use.

 

When I need one for my 3 pedal this fall, I’ll get the oem kit with Hill engineering bearings from @Ricambi America. It’s $3k but I think he still offers a 10% forum discount?

 

Add clutch wear life to the list of useless buying and selling points on F1 Ferraris. Many a fool has missed on a great car because of this useless panic.

Our lead mechanic for the Championship 360GT team was very fond of saying: 'Clutch wear only happens on take off and reverse and really only when you don't know how T.F. to drive one properly.'

 

With a later TCU and the ideal PIS setting, what's typical clutch life for an F1 car usually?

Ray

 

I have a Kevlar clutch in my 360, but it’s a gated manual. It’s not jerky or grabby, but just locks up smoothly. The key is to break it in properly. It can burn or glaze easily when first put in, so you have to be careful not to overheat it when brand new. I don’t think the F1 will let you have the control necessary to do a proper break-in, so if I had an F1, I’d go with OEM.


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Which brand did you use? I’ve seen GT engineering Kevlar which I’m considering for my 360 MT.


Thanks
-ray


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There is a motor sports team Ferr parts is working with and they are developing a clutch kit for the 360.

 

Datapoint - HR clutch just relined my clutch. $850 shipped for organic disc and machining the pressure plate.

I haven’t reinstalled it yet, so no feedback there.

This isn’t a high torque motor and I don’t do any “clutch dump” type driving, so I don’t worry about longevity. Drivability is what I’m after, and after decades of driving organic clutches and a fair amount of track time, I’ve never “burned up” or worn one out.

I only relined this one because when I bought the car it was reported more than 70% wear.

 

GT Engineering


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All true. But OEM material burns easily and as you note, there is little torque. So to get moving from a stop when on a hill, it’s not easy to get good engagement without stalling the engine or burning the clutch. After going to a fully broken-in Kevlar clutch, I no longer worry about it.


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Thanks did you have GTE do any work on the PP or flywheel?

-ray


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Thanks did you have GTE do any work on the PP or flywheel?

-ray


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Yes. Sent it all to them for resurfacing.


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Was my plan as well, hearing about your good outcome is comforting.

G


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