Small update, pedal seems to work OK. Everything bolted into place. Realised i missed one part, the connector that goes between the shift rod and the gearbox input for the selector shaft (whatever it's called). So of course 3D printed one. This is done with a glass filled nylon, which should be stable up to 150°C, but i doubt it. When my CNC guy is back from a short placement in Indiana we'll machine up an aluminium one. Image Unavailable, Please Login At least this allowed me to check teh design worked etc. Linkage is adjusted correctly. Hoping to go for a small test drive at the weekend.
So.... everything back together. I took it for a test drive. Quite randomly it will beep and then the engine cuts out. The beep sounds like the F1 system when you are sat in gear and then it selects neutral. After that, it will not start until you do a full key out power cycle! Any ideas?
Just curious what electrical modifications you had to do. I assume the F1 TCU is still installed since that is the only thing which can activate the F1 beeper. Is it meant to be still installed/powered? Does the conversion require any software mods to the Motronic ECU? Or do you need a new ECU (for a gated car)? I'd imagine the Motronic ECU would be looking for an F1 TCU on the CAN Bus unless you told it not to. Including pushing the immobiliser fob button? Any fault codes?
The only electrical change i did was to add the jumper where the relay was so that it starts. F1 TCU is indeed still in position, i did wonder if i should be removing its fuse. My understanding is that it should throw up a EML regularly until i get the ECU('s) flashed with manual software. I did indeed lock and unlock, but not sure if that was needed, i'll have to try.
Image Unavailable, Please Login The F1 TCU can shut down the engine if it thinks something is wrong. With so many things disconnected, it must think there is something wrong. Pull the fuse!
Sorry, both fuses. One is for the pump (40 amp), one is for the ECU (20 amp). I don't know if you'll get any nuisance F1 warning lights with the ECU depowered.
You have to unplug the TCU. You will get a CEL since the ECU is looking for a signal from the TCU. But the engine won't cut out!
So..... This one goes down to me being a numpty. Had not put the brake light switch back into position so it was always on and I guess the F1 TCU was protecting itself. Where is that TCU? I should unplug it.
TCU is under the leather panel on the firewall behind the driver's seat. As for the ECU, you can either flash it with manual software or the specific code that makes it want to see a power signal from the TCU can be deleted. ECU Doctors in FL offers this but it's close to $1k which to me seems like way too much for a job that probably takes 10 minutes. Although I don't know what's actually involved so maybe I'm wrong.
Agreed, 1k is a bit much for that work. It could be needed though, I am not sure i will pass the TÜV inspection here in germany with an active failure code. I'll find out on friday though! Ideally i would like to keep the option of going back to F1 for me or any future owner. Perhaps a second ECU is a good option.
It takes a couple hundred miles for the CEL to show up, so you should be fine. When mine pops I just delete it with a code reader. At some point i will figure out a permanent fix.
Had a decent drive today after car passed its inspection last week. My pedal geometry isn’t quite right yet, bite point is too high and occasionally makes the clutch slip. I have a few more sets of laser cut parts so will make another one. Will order some steel tube so that I don’t need to separate the old one, anyone know the diameter of hand?
Does anyone have all or most of the manual conversion parts out of a car? Preferably around the So-Cal area? I cannot seem to find a complete kit or even new parts. I would love to reverse engineer the parts and make more as I have a design engineering background.
I'm sure when these things come of for sale people snap them up and stash away for later use.... There's a place in france that has main parts you'd need (used), so control box and the long rod that goes to the gearbox from cabin, but they want new prices for them, which means around 2500€ last time i looked.
This might do the trick… https://www.facebook.com/groups/2222097775/permalink/10159631068752776/?mibextid=W9rl1R Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have money burning a hole in my pocket, willing to part with it for a full manual conversion parts haul . thanks Rob
