Daytona Oil Change

1. Baldwin B253, commonly available on Amazon and all over the internet. Drive a punch through the top of the filters (to break the syphon) so they drain for about 20 minutes before you remove them and you will have no oily mess.

2. 13 quarts of VR1 conventional motor oil is plenty. Daytona's have a hard enough time getting up to oil temps as is.

3. If you do not have new washers, sand the old ones flat on a sheet of glass and use a thin skim of Locktite 518 on both surfaces.

4. 15-18 lb/ft torque on both drain plugs.

5. Otherwise, it is pretty straightforward job.

 

if using a drive on lift, you will need to use a piece of cardboard to guide the oil(from sump tank) into a catch can.

 

First oil change I did in my 599 (drive on lift) I was pulling the plug in one hand and trying to hold cardboard in another, oil came out gushing, I had a bath in dinosaur juice. Patience required

 

^^ one of multiple examples/reasons I’ve never understood people buying/using a 4-post, i.e. "drive on" lift for mechanical maintenance/service purposes, as they provide very awkward/limited access to just about everything in undercarriage.
Even brake/suspension inspections, let alone services or tire replacement usually require some, also often awkward, method of lifting the car off the lift.

I can easily imagine countless DYI amateurs or "garagiste" having attempted/prepared to pull an engine using a “cherry picker” with the car on a 4-post lift, only to …

 

four post lifts are primarily for extra
storage however light duty work is possible. oil changes, exhaust work, detailing etc.
even worst is suppossedly proffessional mechanics with no lifts of any kind.

 

so best would be to have 1 four post lift and 1 two post lift
but what private person has so much space?
lucky - I have

 

somebody with an airplane hangar

 

then I would have several 4 and 2 post lifts

 

Why punch a hole? Baldwin B253 do not leak upon removal. At least, that has been my experience.

Regards, Alberto

 

correct. it has an internal pipe stand. never had a leaker either.

 

I agree, the B253 has a "standpipe". I just do for "insurance". No reason to take a chance and I don't like to clean up an oily mess.

 

Don't you need 6" of concrete depth to use a two post lift safely. Most garage slabs are closer to 4" which is fine for a 4 post.

 

Don’t quote me on this, as it may differ by lift manufacturers design/specifications/recommendations, local safety codes/regulations and/or other variables, but I believe 4” reinforced(?) slab is adequate for 2-post lift in most cases/places.
I’ve had both of mine on +/-4” concrete for over 20 years.
Even when my first one was delivered & installed, the installation crew foreman told me that my chosen location wasn’t up to “recommended specifications” (due to a nearby crack on the floor), but I insisted and it has been fine for nearly 25 years.

 

No leaky. Period, and no one likes to clean up oil. My Lancia has a filter just like it, and no issues.

Regards, Alberto

 

You guys missed the whole point about punching a hole in the filters before removal. Go back and read the first post, the gentleman DOES NOT have Baldwin filters on his Daytona! He did not tell us what brand of filters were on his car, but he did indicate they were NOT Baldwin. I recommended punching the hole to break the syphon, in the case whatever brand filters were on the car did not have standpipes, so he would not make a large mess. Lots of various filters will fit a Daytona, with the majority NOT having standpipes.

 

Do UFI oil filters have standpipes

 

Laurence: Others can also address this question, but it depends on the part number of the filter. Some do, some don't.

 

Thanks

 

I’m planning on changing the oil/filter on my Daytona. What drain plug washers should I use

 

Match the existing washers with new copper washers. If none available, sand the old copper washers flat with 320 grit paper on a piece of glass. I recommend a light smear of Loctite 518 on both sides of the washer for a leak free drain plug.

 

Thanks

 

Laurence, just curious, are you a mechanically inclined person? Do you possess a factory manual?
Full, and I mean a bonafide full set of tools? Not Craftsman in a box.

I mention this, as in these cars, a small mistake can cost thousands after the fact.

Do you have a good mechanic? Also, if you do, you will have 'official records' of all the work
performed, and add value to the car later in life.

Best of luck!

Regards, Alberto

 

Just preference, but why use UFI filters? Baldwin are the standard.