Ferrari 412 - Failed Inspection. High HC and CO Values

Valve clearance is about right, 0.20mm and 0.30mm.

I just had the camshafts rotated until the the lobe of the intake valve started pushing on the shim...

This is where the flywheel is:

My guess is that I am off by 4 or 5 degree on the intake. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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And this is where is the exhaust lobe is just off when the shim breaks free...also considerably off. Image Unavailable, Please Login

The pointer should be on CS10.

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These are not the correct definitions of "intake opens" and "exhaust closes". To use these (just touching and just releasing) as the "events", the valve clearance needs to be physically reset to 0.5mm by changing the shim (or the existing running valve clearance + the valve deflection = 0.5mm).

 

This is what you should do:

1. On Cyl 1, you need to replace 1 intake valve shim and 1 exhaust valve shim such that their clerance is 0.5mm
2. Redo your cam timing measurement using those two valve positions.
3. Replace those valve shims with the ones you take out when you are done.

Do the same with the other bank and the cyl on which you are measuring cam.

It's much more accurate with the degree wheel, but this is good enough.

 

Thank you to both - use, I am aware of the 0.5mm. Will measure the clearance.

In any event, the timing is undoubtedly off by a lot, especially the exhaust.

 

This explains the extremely bad running.

 

When you play with the flywheel, just do not turn it backward as this would make your reading unreliable (in this case you do not rotate the camshafts, you just compress the tensioner).

Are you sure the flywheel is properly line-up and accurately showing TDC?

Same question for the camshafts: maybe they could have been replaced with 400i ones that are cheaper/easier to source and identical (except for the timing marks...).

 

The TDC marks are perfectly matched with TDC of the piston, I put a long rod inside and watched the movement.

The camshafts part numbers correspond to the 412.

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Having an issue, when trying to align the cam lobe of 1/6 bank with AA16 (near PM 1/6 Mark on the flywheel) the marks on the cam cap and can are VERY far away.

Any ideas?

When I tried setting up CS10 to the exhaust, the valve started touching the piston...

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The marks on the cam caps have no relationship to the CS10 and AA16 marks. When the exhaust valve closes (i.e., the exhaust lobe stops touching the shim when clearance has been set to 0.5mm) is when the pointer should be at the CS10 mark, and, likewise, when the intake valve opens (i.e., the intake lobe starts touching the shim when clearance has been set to 0.5mm) is when the pointer should be at the AA16 mark.

PS There are two CS10 marks and two AA16 marks on the flywheel, one set for cylinder #1 and one set for the other bank (not sure which cylinder). Make sure that you are using the correct set of marks for each bank.

PPS The A5/33 mark is where the cyl #1 ignition timing should be (33 deg BTDC) when the engine is at 5000 RPM (with the vacuum line disconnected from the Microplex ECU).

 

Wait, stop. Is there no one else around where you are that can assist with this issue? And, where do you live, again?

 

EDIT:

The valves were not touching, it seems it was just heavy to move, I kept to spark plugs in to not risk dropping anything inside.

This is now where the intake and exhaust lobes are when the flywheel is at CS10 (for the 1/6 bank).

I am just surprised that the marks so far off from PM 1/6. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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And here are both intake and exhaust lobes visible, the flywheel is at CS10 here. Image Unavailable, Please Login

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This is now where the intake (green) and exhaust (red) cam lobes of BANK 1-6 are positioned after lining them up with AA16 and CS10.

Does it look right?

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What is your final lobe separation angle, or in other words how much have you departed from the factory timing marks? If the camshafts timing marks are more than 2mm away from the base setting I would take extra care before attempting to start the engine.

Is this a high mileage car? My own car which is close to 100.000km, does show less wear on the camshafts (there are a few streaks on yours). Maybe this could explain why your settings are so different from the factory base setup.

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Ok, all is well. 1/6 bank completed.

These are the factory marks with the AA16 and CS10 marks on the flywheel aligned.

Just turned over the engine and got 150 psi on all 6 cylinders. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

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Now onto the 7/12 bank...

PM 7-12 should come right after, as it fires right after #1.

Does PM 7-12 come right after CS10 (of PM 1-6)?

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It's not clear which camshaft is which: did you advance the exhaust and retarded the inlet (=reduce overlap)? Or was it the other way round?

There seem to be additional marks on the inlet camshaft? Your new timing seems pretty close to these markings.

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By the way looking at the first two photos you posted on this thread, you can see such "marks" in an other camshaft.

 

I changed both cams.

What I am trying to understand now, is how to do the 7-12 bank. Shall I go to PM 1-6 first, and line up with the cam marks, then look for PM 7-12, and the AA16 and CS10 that follows that?

 

This is the intake cam of the 1-6 bank:

 

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INTAKE 1-6

 

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EXHAUST 1-6

 

Very important question now: When doing bank 7-12, which cylinder should I use to time the cam, #7 or #12?

 

I saw both were adjusted but on the two pictures you did not say which camshaft is which:

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If my assumption is correct, you did reduce the overlap. Less overlap gives you a bit more vacuum at idle which will make it easier to tune for less emissions.

Assuming also that each "additional marks" on your camshaft are indicating 1°, you reduced the inlet by ~2.5°( ~5° at the crankshaft), so worst case you end-up with a 400i tune. Maybe not the best for performance but this would not destroy your engine.

On the contrary if you retarded the exhaust and advanced the inlet you'd better check everything twice: hitting the exhaust sodium valve would be an absolute pain to fix.

 

The diagram of the 400i WSM manual, section B54, may help (bear with the different timing angle and missing marks compared to the 412) : should give you a better idea of where the timing marks are for the second bank (1-7). This being said, the manual recommends to use a "goniometer" (which is probably how they translate degree wheel from italian)