If you help me find an F355 wiring diagram, I offer to:

Sorry, I meant to say relay "L". I'm going cross-eyed looking at these diagrams.

 

After if shuts down it starts running crappy and won’t stay running and it turns over fires off and won’t stay running.

 

So breaking the problem down, assuming the relay is ok, either live battery power is not getting to the "L" relay or the wiring from the ECU to the "L" relay coil is faulty. Relay L also has the potential to shut down a lot of the engine components and the RH fuel pump (if you have two pumps). Of course, the ECU itself may be faulty.

Check for live battery volts on the relay socket. There should be two pins with live battery volts. Unfortunately, I can't tell you which pins will be live (Ferrari has a habit of swapping the power wires).
Check the continuity/resistance between pin 6 (plug C) and the non-live pin as before (note the relay socket number). The remaining non-live relay socket is hooked up to pin H-11

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When I unplug the relay and plug it back in I can hear it engaging the same as the one for 5-8. Could it be the ecu had failed and not completing circuit?

 

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Are the ecu for the right and left the exact same can I simply swap them and see if the problem migrates or stays? Obviously if it migrates it’s the ecu if it stays it’s a bad wire? Thank you so much again for the speedy reply’s and help you are a saint.

 

Yes, both the same.

 

If it's engaging, then that's a good sign the ECU is ok. The ECU is sending an earth to the relay to energise it. The ECU and relay coil circuit is ok. The problem must be related to either pin 30 or 87

Just figure out which pin is live.

 

I'm assuming, of course, the problem isn't intermittent.

 

I am only getting power to one of the terminals in the relay socket for 1-4 and two sockets for 5-8

 

Ugh... That sounds like a board internal problem

 

And it was intermittent (the lights) but now it seems like it’s just not working at all. Won’t start anymore fires off dies quick. Like it’s only runny on. 4 cylinders

 

Are you referring to the relay/fuse board or the ecu internal board?

 

The relay/fuse panel.

That relay controls a bunch of stuff, not just related to a single bank, which would explain this behaviour.

All I can suggest is removing the relay panel (after disconnecting the battery) and finding some way of opening up the panel. I haven't done it myself, but I think it involves grinding down some plastic pins. Then resolder the contact on the printed circuit board which corresponds to the relay L pin which doesn't have power. Note that these boards can have quite a few surprises (burnt tracks, etc).

Maybe someone can confirm my diagnosis by looking the wiring diagrams @m.stojanovic ???

 

Ok sounds fun hahaha I’ll pull it out and start the party tomorrow hopefully uncover the truth behind the problem. I’ll keep you posted as I progress through the venture. Maybe I’ll get lucky and it will be something easy if that’s a thing on a Ferrari. Thanks again for your help and guidance.

 

I can't even suggest jumping the relay (as you still need power to two of the relay sockets). Anyway, I would double check those relay sockets for voltage before you pull the board to pieces.

 

As the coil on relay L sounds like it's activating, in theory, I suppose you could remove the relay and then jumper the good live contact on the relay socket to the relay output socket.

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This should make the car operate normally (just don't forget to remove the jumper after your tests or you'll flatten the battery).

Which are the live contacts on the good relay, i.e. relay "O"? 30 and 86?

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If 30 and 86, then jumper 86 and 87 on relay L.

 

Ok here is the update I tested the correctly functional relay in slot e13 left hand injector control and I’m getting power on terminals 30 and 86 on the malfunctioning slot e5 right hand injector control relay terminal 86 is the only terminal powered up I jumped the terminal it fired up light’s operating correctly as soon as I pulll the jumper it began to run like crap and shut that side down. So I’m guessing either that wore inline somewhere of the relay box itself? Do you concur?

 

Yes, completely. Your coil circuit is working, but your live battery contact (30) is fried inside the relay panel.

Thanks for the follow up .. and good luck with the panel repair.

 

Before I tear into that relay panel is there a contact I can test to confirm it’s within the panel and not a wire inline? Or does the jumper validate your theory?

 

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The 30 and 86 contacts are being fed with power from the live battery terminal on your relay panel. Since 86 is getting power, it can only mean one thing. The 30 contact has detached from the printed circuit board inside the panel.

Hopefully it's not a burnt board and the contact can just be resoldered.

 

Perfect that gives me more confidence. I will give you an update as soon as I get it apart and inspect it. Thanks again for all your help.

 

So you happen to know which terminal on the plug side would be the so I can test that for continuity I have it opened up not seeing anything major terminal seems intact
View attachment 3234403 View attachment 1666815 View attachment 1940037

 

I have the feeling that the tracks on the board are on both sides. Does your board look like this?


The large circular battery terminal seems isolated from the copper (gold-coloured) conductive areas. i.e. it's sitting on the non-conductive green area. This may mean we are looking at the earth tracks on this side of the board. The live tracks may be on the other side.

Can you circle which group of contacts corresponds to the L relay? Look for the two solder joints which seem isolated from the copper areas.

 

If my calculations/theories are correct, try resoldering these terminals (marked in red)

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You probably have a better view of your board, so please feel free to correct me.

If in doubt, try resoldering all 5 of them