Great shot. Thanks. Unfortunately, the tracks we need to see are on the hidden side. I would try to resolder the contacts without getting solder on the copper areas (on this side of the board). Hopefully the fresh solder will bleed through to the copper tracks on the other side of the "board". I don't know how you normally access the other side. Experts?
By the way, do you currently have continuity between those two contacts? Unlikely, but I suppose the 30 socket itself could have snapped in two. Do you have continuity front to back on pin 30?
I've added some numbers and letters to your photo to help with future problems: Image Unavailable, Please Login
After inspecting the soldiers better I found one that was cracked so I resolidered both power connections and problem solved. Thank you so much for for you guidance and support. I hope this thread helps someone else in the future. If you’re ever in Seattle I owe you lunch.
Brilliant! Thanks for the update. It's always great to work with someone who not afraid to pull his car to pieces/experiment. We've all learned something here. By the way, did you have any problems opening up the panel? Are there just clips, or did you have to melt something?
Hello everyone, we're looking for any electrical diagrams for Ferrari F355, that's our car. I have seen that many of you posted here it but all links are not longer available, Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi, Jakub? Bob? I’m not sure how to identify your car with a VIN number, but I assume you have a late model car with a 5.2 engine management system. F1 gearbox? Europe? Instead of randomly providing diagrams, I do like to know what the problem is with your car so I can guide you to the correct diagram. Also, if fellow owners have similar problems, conversations on fault diagnosis may help them.
Hi, thanks for your replay. My name is Jakub but for firends I'm Bob . It's probably US version, it got OBD socket. We got this car from previous workshop... they made total mess with wires and gearbox control unit, I can see one place where should be probably capacitor and it's missing in TCU. We got communication with ECU by generic OBD, we already started the engine by wire the up starter. The starter can't work with ignition switch for this moment, the car probably doesn't have communication with Gearbox control unit. That's why I'm interested in all electrical diagrams for this car, of course I can pay for it if it's needed. Do you have any advise with which diagnostic tester/program we can try to connect with gearbox using 3 wires socket? If it will be easier we can contact also with whatsapp
Sorry for the delay, I couldn't access FChat Do you know if the starter relay is working? The F1 TCU controls the starter relay and allows power to be sent to the starter. There is also an associated diode bridge (marked in red on this simplified diagram): https://www.dropbox.com/t/imCLJZvc7JBFDID2 I believe this is in the passenger footwell. Image Unavailable, Please Login Is your rear deck lid closed? Are your brake lights working? There is another diagram for the F1 system, but it doesn't tell you much more: https://www.dropbox.com/t/Xat7YSRMgTHghax9 Here's the 5.2 Engine Management diagram showing the connector which goes between the Motronic ECU and the F1 TCU: https://www.dropbox.com/t/lZ79AXODW39czBvu Sorry, I have no idea what tools to use to intercept the signals. As I understood it, the Motronic ECU should tell you if there is no comms with the TCU (through fault codes). Are you getting the right indications on the instrument panel? Is the car going into N? If not, have you checked the extra (F1) fuses in the passenger footwell. Here's another diagram which shows the relay and diode bridge: https://www.dropbox.com/t/4BRva85llmGmmWOA
If you disconnected the connector on the TCU and jumpered pins 27 and 30, you could bypass the F1 TCU's control of the starter relay. This would prove that all the circuitry between the TCU and the starter was ok. Image Unavailable, Please Login Of course, without the TCU hooked up, you're not going to know if your gearbox is in neutral, so make sure your foot is hard on the brake (or lift the back wheels off the ground) when you turn the key. This technique has been used in manual conversions (on F355's, 360's, 430's etc) You could also jumper contacts 1 & 2 on the "Dashboard System Connector", but I'm not sure where that this.
hi, anyone have the electric diagrams for berlineta 355 manual 1995 ? maybe complete manual apreciated the help, thanks.
@Qavion Hello Ian, don't suppose you could repost a download link for 355 wiring diagrams please? Actually, 348 diagrams would be useful too, as I'm trying to establish if a particular 348 part would work in a 355. HNY everyone.
Any particular part, Robin? What system are we talking about here? Just too many diagams to upload. F355 2.7? 5.2? Spider? F348 2.5? 2.7? Euro/UK, I assume.
Hi Ian, Euro ideally. So my theory is that a 348 oil pressure/water temp gauge might just slot right into a 355 for a manual swap. Obviously it would need a new decal insert, but this shouldn’t be too difficult. I’m keen then to look into the wiring diagrams for each of the 355 F1 / manual and 348.
348 Instrument diagram (Euro) https://www.dropbox.com/t/X9AXOVrmiZEfpVwt 355 F1 instrument diagram (USA Spider) is the only F1 one I've got: https://www.dropbox.com/t/uTvHK4fEnDihYG0w F355 manual (Euro) Instrument: https://www.dropbox.com/t/TZBE1juSMxvLZyhx The wiring at the back of the F1 instrument cluster is going to be completely different on the F1 because of the F1 gear display. You'd still have to run wires from the oil pressure sensor to the new gauge (probably from plug 41024 under the dash). Also, you'd have to know how the gauge is calibrated (in relation to the senders). I might be able to give you some ballpark figures for the F355 sender (and gauge) i.e. create a sender resistance/gauge pressure table.
Here's what the F1 display looks like: Image Unavailable, Please Login According to the manual, here is the pinout for the F1 water temperature gauge: Image Unavailable, Please Login It looks like the water temp pinout is similar. Here's what the F355 non-F1 display looks like: Image Unavailable, Please Login Here's a graph for the F355 water temperature gauge on my manual '98 (P/N 148677) Image Unavailable, Please Login I don't know if there is a similar map for the 348 water temperature gauge. I haven't yet created an oil pressure graph.
Here's the back of the 348 centre gauge cluster: Image Unavailable, Please Login Seems to have only 5 pins
Thanks Ian. There are important similarities, but there are also key differences as well. The 355 has the extra lamps for the warning lights as well as the backlighting, and whilst you might say that you could do without that, the fact that the pins don't look like they line up all that well is a bigger issue. I think its a dead end sadly. Oh well, was worth looking at.