2V intake manifold gasket, important information

Just for reference, post #37 in this thread:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/308-valve-clearance-and-timing.673782

describes what I did to (hopefully) address this (design) problem on the 104031 intake gaskets. Of course, never had a chance to take the intake manifolds off again before selling my ex-308.

 

Was surprised with the same issue when doing an engine out service on my car a few months ago. Did the intake gaskets "while I was there" and "just because", then spent several hours cleaning out the cooling passages. I am hopefull the new green gaskets will fare better.

 

Nice removal tool!

 

I had the same problem with coolant getting back behind the gasket on the intake manifolds resulting in a good amount of corrosion. I blasted them (glass beads) and filled the voids with JB Weld and finally applied several coats of AlumaBlast in an effort to seal the aluminum as much as possible. I would have painted the manifolds anyway, just put a couple extra coats on the gasket surface. Fortunately my heads were not affected.
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I'd say that you're OK without repairing the corrosion as long as the manifold surface is in good shape where it corresponds to making contact with the cylinder head surface (i.e. where it corresponds to clamping the gasket) -- you'll be cutting away much of the gasket over the corroded areas anyway . I can't recall if mine had any corrosion like yours (and I ignored it) or if there was no corrosion, but I'm pretty sure it that wasn't as bad as miked's example -- I would've remembered that.

 

Your manifolds look almost exactly like mine when I had them off last winter. I did not do anything about the corrosion and just put a new gasket with a light coat of Hylomar on both sides and there have been no leaks so far.

 

Years ago I went to the trouble of having an O ring groove machined into the runner for the really bad ones.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/2v-intake-manifold-gasket-option.470844/#post-143587971

 

I had one apart about a year ago that with the head still bolted to the motor and a 4 lb compothane hammer beating on the manifold I could not get it loose. It got to where I was worried about breaking the manifold. I finally took the head off, got it rigged up in the drill press and with a long drill bit drilled out all the studs. Bolted it back on the motor and then the 4 lb hammer finally broke it free. After cleaning off both surfaces and grinding away destroyed metal I reconstructed both surfaces with metal filled epoxy and machined it back flat. Repaired all the stud holes and replaced the studs. All done at an hourly shop rate all because someone decided changing antifreeze was a waste of money.

I did a GT4 about a year earlier. Car was 5 years older and had good service. Engine just fell apart, no rust, no corrosion. Just scraped gaskets and put it back together.

 

I dont recall if stud positions the same but the ports are very different.

 

At 1.1 bar, would the coolant push through these channels even if it is partially clogged by the gasket? How does one determine if it is completely clogged without disassembly? and is this a problem on all cars or just ones that sat unused for a long time? Thanks!

 

1.1 bar is not the pressure that creates flow through the system. It is the pressure the entire system is under due to thermal expansion.
It is only a problem on cars that have had terrible service histories.