FChat Completed Models and WIP Thread | Page 35 | FerrariChat

FChat Completed Models and WIP Thread

Discussion in 'Collectables, Literature, & Models' started by zoRob, May 22, 2009.

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  1. rysc97

    rysc97 Formula Junior
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    Here's maybe a better overview of what I have build.
    On the left side of the box is a window, where I can throw out the hose from the ventilator.


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  2. rysc97

    rysc97 Formula Junior
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  3. bigodino

    bigodino F1 World Champ
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    Thanks John for showing your home made paint booth. That looks very nice. I think it's located in a shed?

    I've looked at air flow capacity of a cheap kitchen ventilator and it's about 295 m3 per hour. That's quite a bit more than with the professional paint booth that I posted the link of (about 180 m3 per hour). The capacity of bathroom ventilator I'm currently using is only 95 m3 per hour. But I've found one that has a much larger capacity (292 m3 per hour). I can easily replace it and it's very cheap. It's also suitable for moist air (bathroom) so I assume it's well isolated (preventing a spark reaching the vapours).

    I'm still wondering why it happened only with the red paint and not with previous paint jobs (primer, tan, white). No paint dust traces whatsoever of those colours, not even in the booth itself.

    That's one side of the problem hopefully tackled. For the other (too much paint by using spray cans) I'm still thinking of switching to an airbrush. However, I'm now looking at a single action version. My paintwork will almost exclusively be even coats, so I don't think I need the doublt action and single action should be easier to operate. Any flaws in my reasoning?

    I'm looking at this one, but any recommendations are welcomed.
    https://www.toemen.nl/product/airbrush-pistool-bd-116c-met-03mm-en-05mm-en-08mm-nozzle
     
  4. rysc97

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    The only thing I can say is that you are right about the spraycans, I am using too much paint.
    But it is so much easyer to paint big scale models and in opposite of an airbrush you do not have to clean it.
    So, everyone has his own way of working that he like best.
     
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  5. the_stig

    the_stig F1 Rookie

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    Spray cans come with their own problems, they are not trouble free, can leak and clog, etc. Airbrush cleaning is usually just a matter of a few seconds of thinners and the occasional strip down for thorough cleaning. Avoid the siphon-feed airbrushes that use jars - much more work in cleanup.
     
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  6. rei24

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  7. Lusso123

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    Looks very much like the early days of very low res 3D printing. Extremely rough. Good luck with this!
     
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  8. rysc97

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    This gives you a lot of work, Klaus. :confused: It is what Marshall said: Good luck with this!
     
  9. bigodino

    bigodino F1 World Champ
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    I'm back at this problem. I bought an airbrush spraygun and wanted to use the paint from a Tamiya spray can to finish off the model I was painting with that can (225 Vignale spider).
    I decanted the paint from the spray can into a glass bottle and let it degas overnight. In preparing the paint for the spray gun I added thinner and the result was horrible: the paint started to flake in the bottle.
    So now I'm looking for the correct red paint to finish the job. Italian Red is available in a bottle, but in lacquer form only (LP-21). I'm hesitant to use lacquer paint to finish an acrylic paint job?
    Tamiya has only one acrylic red available in a bottle: X7 Gloss Red. I have no idea if this is similar to Italian Red.

    So I have three options:
    - buy another spray can and try to decand it a second time,
    - use the lacquer paint over the acrylic,
    - use X7 Gloss Red and hope it's the correct shade of red.

    Any thoughts on what is the best way to go ahead?
     
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  10. bigodino

    bigodino F1 World Champ
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    In searching on the internet I get conflicting information. It seems that the TS spray paints aren't acrylic after all? Or that they at least aren't affected by lacquer paint. Very confusing.
     
  11. bigodino

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    I decided to finish the paint job with the spray can. The new ventilator worked very well. It has so much more power than the old one. No overspray.
    The result won't win any contests, but for a first try it's not bad. I learned a lot during the proces, including from my mistakes as well as from browsing Youtube. For the next job I will use the airbrush.

    Now I'm finishing the model build with painting details and quite a bit of details need to be glued on. Unfortunately the glue I use (Revell Contacta) reacted with the paint as you can see in the picture (below the headlight).

    I've always used this glue and rarely have this problem (except with a special kind of paint). So now I'm looking for the correct type of glues to go ahead.
    I need a glue that won't affect paint and is suitable for Photoets parts. I also need a glue for the transparant windscreen. Obviously that needs to be a glue that won't be visible.

    Which glues (brands, type) would be recommended for these two kind of jobs?
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  12. rysc97

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    Peter, I am using always Bisonkit (contact-glue) , for PE- parts CA-glue (seconde lijm) and for your clear parts Microscale Kristal Klear .

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  13. jm2

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  14. humberto rosario

    humberto rosario Formula Junior

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    is that from mg models? by the head lights that i recongnize
     
  15. bigodino

    bigodino F1 World Champ
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    No it's from MT-Models. See post #839 and 840.
     
  16. bigodino

    bigodino F1 World Champ
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    I've finally finished the build of the MT-Models Vignale spider. I had to do quite a bit of scratch building to complete this model:
    - complete exhausts (except for the molded in mufflers),
    - gear lever,
    - steering column and indicator stalk,
    - windscreen (the original part of the kit was no good).
    I also added a boss to the steering wheel (which is only a flat piece of PE).
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    The next project will probably the 308 GTB/M conversion of a Hot Wheels model that I started years ago, but which I put aside when Ottomobile came out with their version.
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  17. jm2

    jm2 F1 World Champ
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    Great progress!
     
  18. the_stig

    the_stig F1 Rookie

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    Tamiya TS paints are synthetic solvent based lacquer. Unfortunately "acrylic" and "lacquer" both get used to describe several different types of paint making this a somewhat complicated and confusing part of model building.
     
  19. rei24

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  20. lucky_13_2002

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    It's 1:24 Aoshima kit. Notorious with bad fitment. But I like the challenge.
     
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  21. bigodino

    bigodino F1 World Champ
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    Sounds very familiar! And I'm working on a larger scale, can't imagine the patience you have on that level of detail and scale size. Very impressive.
    When I watch Youtube channels of model makers they make it look so easy. Everything falls right into their place and just a touch of glue fixes everything. With me, everything is glued except the part I wanted! But I keep going on.

    A small project with another wheel swap. I never liked the Boranni wire wheels on the late sixties Ferraris like the 330 GTC. I much prefer the Campagnolos. So when I came across an Ebay seller who makes Campagnolo wheels (in different sizes), I immediately bought the GTC by CMR and did the wheel swap. I also swapped the tires. The original ones of the CMR model are way too large and fill the whole wheel arches. Instead, I used tires from the KK-Scale Lusso that I had lying around.

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  22. bigodino

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    The Campagnolo wheels came unpainted. The center knock-offs should be chrome so I bought Tamiya X-11 Chrome Silver for the job. Unfortunately, it didn't turn out quite as shiny as I hoped. So I had to choose a more toned down colour for the wheels themselves (in real life it looks better than in these pictures). Does anyone know a better way to simulate chrome?
     
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