My last thread was more about the fuse for my fan blowing - which seems to have solved itself. This is all on my '97gts BUT what hasn't solved itself so far is that the oil temp after a canyon run is getting really hot on the gauge - like just below the red area of the gauge - which is around 300F right? With letting the car warm up in my garage from cold, the RH fan comes on pretty early - around a quarter of the gauge - which I think is around 150F? It does not seem to cycle much and just runs. Under normal driving the oil temp sticks to around middle or one notch up from middle. I pulled the oil thermostat from the oil tank and boiled it as a test - it moved up about an inch so that seems okay. The car was just serviced and has fresh oil. We did just replace the RH fan as it wasn't pulling much air previously. My mechanic gave me a temp gun so I'm going to run the canyon again this week and see if the guage is accurate. So questions: 1. What temp does your RH fan turn on at? 2. Does it cycle on and off or just run? 3. When you run your car hard, what oil temps are you seeing? What am I missing? Thanks!
Have you checked that it moves freely inside the thermostat housing? Mine was stuck for some unknown reason. The tolerances are quite tight. Also, what's the condition of the water rad in front? Is there a blockage or collapsed fins etc? (apols if covered in the other thread)
Or maybe your oil temp gauge is kaputt Lots of worst case scenarios. At least it's not oil pressure. Is Jeff seeing abnormal coolant temperature values? You would think that if the radiator was blocked, there would be less cooling with only one radiator working. Since you have abnormal fan control, why not replace the NTC sensor? The fan sounds like it comes on way too early. An overreading sensor would also affect engine management. Image Unavailable, Please Login
That's quite enough of your well-considered logic and sensible approach. I'd say the problem stems from not having spent a minimum of 12k on your last service... Oil flows around the engine, the tank and the rad. The thermostat regulates flow into the rad. The only 'moving' parts are the stat and oil pump. Assuming pressures are normal (ie oil pump working OK), then it's either the stat not doing its job, a blockage or the oil rad isn't cooling (check the condition visually). Stating the obvious, is the oil level OK? V low oil will affect temps. Oil pressure senders can be suspect (near the filter) but don't know if temp senders are prone to failure. As for that fan, as above it seems to be getting an odd signal so maybe look at swapping that sensor. Slight bugger to get at and may need to drain the coolant, but far from impossible. Lastly, to answer questions, 1. My RH fan cycles, but if the car has been thrashed and is hot (ie gauges vertical or just over and idling), both fans run continuously (I think) 2. If its been driven normally and temps are vertical, the fans cycle 3. When the stat was stuck, oil temp would be middle if gauge under normal driving but even short spirited driving saw it up to first mark past vertical and pressing on would rise to near second marker. Now, it barely moves past vertical and also warms up quicker...
Check the accuracy of the gauge. I regularly see incorrect oil temp readings. When changing oil I use an IR thermometer and see lots of incorrect gauges. BTW. Modern high quality synthetic oil is good to a little higher that 300 degrees but a 355 should not go that high. Also the fan is pretty superfluous at running speeds. It is really only a contributor at low speeds or stopped.
Thanks everyone. I'm going to check the temps in the canyon today as well. Oil was just changed and the level is perfectly fine on the stick We cleaned out any debris in front of the radiator With the oil thermostat - I didn't remove it from the housing. I literally put the entire thing in water and watched in move around 200dF Good to know that fan should be cycling - I thought so too.
OK. I'd try pulling the stat out of the housing and see how easily it moves up and down. If it's wedged in position, that'd give you the symptoms you're seeing. Just a thought.
Ok lots of exploration today. The first photo shows the car at first start and my oil pressure. The next shows the temp when the car is warmed up cruising on the highway. I drove the car to a friend's house and we took out his '97 Spider so we could do some apples to apples testing. His car from cold behaves the same as mine. The RH fan comes on and stays on while the car is sitting at around 1/4-1/3 of the oil temp gauge. LH Fan cycles as needed with the water temp. We did a hard-ish canyon run and I took temps. Our temps showed similarly on the gauge and both temps on my gun showed similar to one another at the connections on the oil tank. The one photo shows how hot my oil gauge shows when I was running through the canyons. It gets maybe a hair hotter than that at its hottest. Let me know what you all think based on this. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Not sure either. The connectors can get contaminated with oil during an oil change, but that's more likely to increase the circuit resistance, making the displayed temperature drop. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/oil-temperature-sender-thermistor.672339/#post-148972223 Is there a reason why your car is idling at 1250? Also, your oil pressure seems a little high. What was the temperature that day?
That picture is cold start - like the secondary air pump hadn't even shut off yet. Temp in the morning was around 55. It was around 70ish on the harder drive.
Meaningless. And the 2 very different readings are proof of that. Point it into the oil tank at the oil itself.
The temp gauge is showing like 230-240, I wouldn't be worried about that. I've seen as high as 250 on track in mine, above that and I'd probably go to a 50W oil.
Ok so that's good. Even the one night when it got really hot - it on'y got to the last hash mark. I for some reason though that was 300
You cannot judge whether the fan is coming "on" early (or late) by looking at the oil temperature as there is no relation between the oil temperature and switching the RH fan "on" (or switching of the LH fan for that matter). Both fans are switched "on" or "off" only by reference to the coolant temperature (the LH fan also by the AC pressure). So, if your RH fan comes "on" at about 190F (88C), it is coming "on time". The oil temperature triggers, and is controlled by, only the mechanical thermostat. The engine ECU, which switches the RH fan "on", does not "know" the oil temperature but only gets the signal of the coolant temperature from the coolant temperature sensor.