Mitchell’s directions on the locking plate were perfect With the plate positioned so the wires go out to the right you must push the plate away from you With the correct removal tool it works easy with the incorrect tool not so good The correct tool will push the pin out about 1/8 inch and then it’s release I used the tool from my gold kit because the $30 one off Amazon even though it had the correct tool the pins were too short by about 1/8 inch and would not push it out far enough
Update For what ever reason when I checked the coils last year the wires running to the bank one seemed fine but because the car. Was intermittent It was hard to find How I found it was pushing and pulling about 30 wires from inside the car until it cutout Then i found the wire 49 was the problem Car runs fine now but the traces above were when it was not running fine so I don’t understand why the traces would be bad just because of no spark. Maybe someone else would know?
Over the next year I am going to put the correct traces on this thread in case others have an issue Thanks for everyone’s insite and explanations.
So the RH bank coil trigger wire for cylinders 1 & 4. So you didn't need to wire in a new harness to the injectors?
Yes I wired in 1 wire to the coil The injectors were ok but for some reason when that coil is not firing the traces were bad for the injector but I am going To recheck now that it’s good because that makes no sense to me. How about you?
On the plus side I now have an injector cleaner that works, and a new scope that also checks every component live So the actual fix cost me 8 bucks without the extra tools ha ha. As Mitchell said what an ordeal for him and me. No I need to fly to San Fran and buy him a big old dinner or on his way to Alaska he needs to stop in since we are on the way directly
I can plug in the pigtail Mitchell got be to make and disconnect a wire Nope I can’t I need a 3 wire pigtail