Turn signal always illuminated when headlights on

Great. That would look more like our wiring diagrams for the lamp assemblies.

Then you need to carefully cut into that splice and separate the wires into two pairs. Hopefully the new lamp holder will have two different colours, so it will be easier to know how to hook up the yellow and blue wires.

 

Are these parts even available separately? I can't quite read the part numbers on them.

If in doubt, blame the previous owner

 

Something like this:

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As a temporary measure, I suppose you could snip the yellow wire (close to the old splice) and wrap it up so it doesn't touch anything).

 

Ah.. no.. I edited your photo.

So you're saying the socket is already the correct type with two contacts at the bottom? The wire has just broken off?

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https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/20925/how-does-a-lightbulb-with-two-filaments-know-which-one-to-light-up

 

Yes, cut that yellow wire near the yellow splice. Obviously, that yellow splice is not original - it is different from the other two original yellow splices and somebody has wrongly inserted the yellow wire into it:
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Comparing with my new lamp wiring, the yellow wire that you cut-off should extend to the bulb socket as shown:
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Unplug your bulb socket which has only one blue wire and remove its bulb. See whether inside the socket there are two contacts on the circular "bakelite" plate. If there are two contacts, mark the orientation of the plate in relation to the socket, push the existing blue wire from the back and you should be able to push the plate with contacts out (there should be a sping behind it). Then see if there is a remnant of the yellow wire attached to one of the contacts. If there is, you can try to extend it and connect to the yellow wire that you have cut-off at the yellow splice.

Both bulb cockets should have cable ties on the wires where they enter the socket to keep the "bakelite" plate about half-way down the socket (against the spring) and prevent it from being pushed by the spring completely out when the bulb is removed.
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If the socket has only one contact inside, then it is a wrong socket. The socket is not available separately but you can buy a new lamp cover separately complete with the wiring, p/n 148056.

 

Your RH Indicator flashes quickly because you have disconnected the front Indicator bulbs. This is normal and will revert to regular flashing once you plug back in the RH front lamp assembly (after sorting the bulb socket).

 

I'm really glad you got your problem fixed, but you could have followed the steps in post #10 of this thread and saved yourself 125 other posts...

Anyway, glad you got to the bottom of it.

 

To be fair, no one had a wiring diagram for this car, no one knew what the function of each lamp was (the manuals wrongly identified the lamps) and no one knew which pins on the lamp assembly plug corresponded to which wires (assuming the harnesses were sealed outside of the lamp assemblies).

Some of the wire colours were unfamiliar to us. Some of the lamp assemblies pins do indeed short to each other (normally).

When the wiring looks shiny and new, it’s the last thing you suspect. Of course, once photos of the lamp internals were shown, it was obvious to the “experts”. Chris admitted he was not one.

 

no worries. I’m just teasing. What counts is the end result, and the great thing about this site is we (mostly) pull together to help out!

As I say, it’s great you got to the root of it, now get out there and enjoy the car!!!

 

@m.stojanovic Miro, what was the clue which made you suspect the front RH assembly?

 

Are you sure it was the yellow wire you were supposed to cut?

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The first clue was the picture you attached to your post #90. That made me realise that the USA spec front indicators had dual fillament bulbs (marker & indicator lights) where the blue and yellow wires come close to each other and where short between the two was possible. At that time, I thought that only the outer orange lights (marker/indicator) had dual fillament bulbs and that the inner ones had single fillament (5W) acting as marker lights. In my post #93, while trying to find out how the front marker and parking lights operate on US spec lights, I asked for confirmation from any "...member who has a US spec 348" but nobody responded.

Then, I realised that the new fog light that I kept as spare was US spec and RH (I don't know why I did not think of that earlier). Got it out of the storage box, looked at its wiring and found out that actually both top orange lights used dual fillament bulbs and that both acted as marker and indicator lights, meaning double probability of the blue and yellow wires coming in contact (at that time, you and I were struggling to establish the wiring diagram for the US front indicator/marker/parking/fog light assemblies).

Next, I remembered Chris's earlier other thread in which he showed his disassembly of the RH fog lamp to remove some loose piece of plastic from inside the lamp. This made me think of a possibility that Chris maybe accidentally caused some short at one of the dual fillament sockets while changing the bulbs (Chris later clarified that the problem was there before his work on the lamp, i.e. since he bought the car). I also put in the "equation" Chis's statement "Judging by the condition of the wires and bulb sockets someone has tried to fix this before".

I thought that most likely the short was inside one of the dual fillament bulb sockets and was surprised to see that the "short" was actually made by some "expert" by connecting the yellow ad blue wires together at the new yellow splice.

 

Clearly not from the factory because the yellow splice where the yellow and blue wires were connected together is not a factory splice (it is different from the other two). Someone, for some reason, replaced the original yellow splice on the blue wires with an aftermarket one and added the yellow wire to it. Why the yelow wire was added to this joint is puzzling. Possibly, the yellow wire broke off the dual fullament bulb socket and it was found "dangling" inside. Then, the logic was "it should probably go to one of these yellow splices".