It was the only option I had in my current (tiny) garage. I have only had limited use of it (and then only after I created some short wooden ramps to get the car high enough) I recall only having an issue with tyre interference when the jack has been put in backwards. i.e. with the ram pointing away from the engine. The smaller Quickjack would have been a better fit, but someone on the forum recommended the 5000 because of the reason explained earlier. (EDIT: I think my tyres might be a few mm smaller than OEM, creating less ground clearance, so perhaps that is a contributing factor)
I dont remember all the details but you basically place it so it clears the front tire when lifting. The rubber blocks fall into the green zones on the image above. The back ones sit on an angle snug to the underbody angle and they just it in the quick jack tray. I was able to remove the center section under panel no problem. I dropped the fuel pump and everything with no drama.
The prior 5000 mode slx? Or something had a lot more adjustability in the trays for the blocks.. the 355 lifting points are very close together. Thats why theTL model is harder to work with since the trays are shorter but wider apart. Still it works and ill take the extra couple inches of lift.
There is a 2 cm difference in length between the 5000 and the 7000, let's not talk about the height, that works with ramps, could the 2 cm extra on the 7000 really annoy us?
There are 3cms more in width for the 7000, which can make it easier this time to choose the location of the rubbers… So 7000 or 5000 ?
I can't say without getting it setup and checking. Earliest that will happen is probably a month away. Do you need 7000 for some reason? All i can say is 5000 works. I've done it numerous times. Sat lifted all last winter while i did a bunch of work.
I have a GLA 250 e, and a G63 AMG, and I think car will be more and more heavy in the future so… Like everybody I don’t want to buy several QuickJacks for all different cars…
There's another issue with the Quickjacks, too. If you don't put large enough rubber blocks on top of the trays, you can get interference with the sills Image Unavailable, Please Login (not my photo) Of course there are other general issues, such as feeding the hydraulic hoses under the car and to the rams. If you mess this up, you can crush the hoses.
Try this hopefully clearer photo. Image Unavailable, Please Login By some Christmas miracle i have this photo. Just happens to have blocks and their orientation shown. Now i recall. When the jack is far enough back to clear the front tire. The back block is all the way forward on the back tray and sits on the angle. I can't stress enough it "just" works barely.
Is this where you install your quickjacks? and you say that it is extremely difficult to have a convincing result?
On the same concept, you have this lift https://pmtools.pl/katalog/podnosniki-samochodowe/podnosnik-mobilny-pm-lift-s/ Heavy, more, more expensive…
Lots of options. But seriously, how often would you use such a lift? https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/Specialty-Lifts-s/294.htm
For the story of the choice of the Quickjack, I ordered the 7000, if it is to be bored with the front wheel whether with the 5000 or the 7000, you might as well install the Quickjack transversely and go with the most powerful…
Don't tell us we didn't warn you By the way, I see that the 7000 jacks weigh 46 kilos. I thought the 5000 was heavy at 35 kilos. They have wheels, but you wouldn't say they were easy to move or "portable". Let us know how you go, especially with oil changes and wheel removals (and if you need small ramps to get the car high enough). As mentioned before, the rubber blocks have to be high enough to clear the bodywork Image Unavailable, Please Login
Works perfectly, the only thing is to be careful point anchor. Take there where is green. I use ramps dismantled… to make it easier Model is 7000 TL
Did you have any problems getting the car to go up the rear ramp? Or is your photo showing the ramp after you dismantled and removed the sloping section?
yes that's it, I dismantled the inclined part to pass the Quickjack aside more easily I still forgot to pay attention to the left rear anchor point, you have a hose that crosses the place of the anchor bridge, be careful not to crush it
So is this before you jacked up the car? And after the quickjack was placed under the car, did you refit the ramp? i.e. Is the quickjack completely inboard of the ramps?
I install the car on the ramps, so it is raised by 7 cm. Then I dismantled the tilting part of the ramps at the rear to slide the Quickjack ramps from the side. I use a skate that is flush with the ramp, another block and a hockey puck. It is not possible to crush the flat bottoms like this
Thanks...of course. Sorry.. early morning here.. Haven't had my coffee yet. The ramps look like the perfect size. I have some wooden ones about that size, but you can't dismantle them. I also have some huge 3 part ramps which I have trouble getting the car onto (even though the slope is relatively shallow).
No problem Qavion and thanks for all advises you gave me before. That helped me a lot in the choice of Quickjack