I have a 1985 Mondial QV Cab, 3.0 It has decided not to start. It will turnover and over but wont fire. Here is what I have done so far: 1. Check fuel pump and pressure - Good (somewhat new pump) 2. Check spark - Good 3. Check connection power to the Cold Start Injector - NOT Good (none) with key on II 4. Check connection power to the Warm Up Regulator - NOT Good (none) with key on II 5. Replaced Fuel Accumulator (Had a new one laying around) 6. Disconnected safety cutoff connection on the fuel distributor and turn on power (Pump runs, and damper or metering valve buzzes) 7. Checked fuses and the Electrovalve fuse (blown, but replaced and still no go) 8. Swapped relays R and S with spares I had. (no change) 9. If I let it sit for a long time, it will try to start, but wont. Will just keep turning over. 10. I sprayed Starter fluid in the Plenum and got it to briefly and roughly start 1 time. Any ideas? Turns over smoothly with no odd sounds. Thanks!
How about the condition of the battery itself? Fully charged? Good voltage? And related to the battery, check for possible corrosion with the battery emergency cut off switch. I had an issue years ago with the car not starting and it was traced to that very switch. Good luck!
How did you check for spark Steve? Removed a spark plug lead and grounded it and watched the spark jump? Have you removed each spark plug and checked to see if they are not fouled up?
You've done a good job of eliminating many of the usual suspects. Neither of these should really inhibit the engine starting, but: Power will be provided to the cold start injector only during the first couple~few seconds of the first starter cranking event (unless it is really cold, then maybe it would also happen on the second cranking event) -- never with just key "on". Power is provided to the WUR only when the fuel pump is running. Since you know how to unplug the safety switch and turn the key "on" to run the fuel pump (#6), that's when there should be +12V power at the WUR. In #1, when you say the "pressure is good", are you measuring (with a pressure gauge) both the regulated supply fuel pressure and the cold control pressure?
To test the spark, I pulled the lead on plug 4 and put a screw driver in an placed in about 1/8 inch from a bolt on the valve cover. I get spark when turning over. I did not use a gauge... Not sure how I can test the actual pressure. After pulling safety cutoff, I disconnected one of the feeds to the fuel distributer and to the cold start injector. Fuel sprays out uncontrollably hard. I did try and swap out the 2 TDC sensors, but no luck. I know there is another engine speed (pickup) sensor, but I cant find it. Its baffling.
I checked for spark by pulling the lead off of plug 4 and putting a screw driver in. I placed it about 1/8 inch or so from a bolt on the valve cover. sparks when turning over.
Not a bad sign, but also not a sign that things are OK. A Bosch CIS pressure gauge set is not hugely expensive (I think, but I haven't bought one in many years). Cold engine start on a US K-Jet with Lambda really relies on the regulated supply pressure and cold control pressure being correct and the Frequency Valve (aka Metering Valve) doing the proper thing. If you've got spark on both banks during starter motor cranking, but the engine won't even "cough" = next diagnostic step is checking the pressures IMO.
Yes, that's in the right ballpark. The two lines coming off of the three-way valve, I believe, have to connect to where banjo bolts presently connect so the male-to-male adapters need to be the correct threads. See page D37 here (although this figure isn't the best IMO -- perhaps YouTube will have a video): https://www.dropbox.com/s/z99soo68ny9n2qa/Mondial8qv_workshop_281-83.pdf?dl=0 Would also think that some K-Jet FChatters with more direct recent experience with this can speak up -- so please do so!
without Cold Start Injector working properly (12v to open + good fuel pressure) its a very very hard to start engine (it could start if you press the CIS meter air sensor forcing all the injectors to inject fuel, executing a manual prime)
Oddly, This morning after sitting all night, It attempts to start and sounds horrific (banging and instability). It then dies after 3 or 4 seconds and will not do it again. I pulled an injector and tested its spray but pressing the plate in the metering unit and it increases the deeper I press. Looks good. Nice cone shape.
It actually started for 3 or 4 seconds after sitting all night. Horrific sounding (banging and instability). It will not do that again and it just turns over. I tested a random injector and it seems to spray fine (nice cone and more powerful as you press the plate in the metering unit. Possibly air related?
Possibly air related?? I have air injection on my engine. What's odd is that even though my engine number states 3.0, it has all the aspects of a 3.2. (same expansion tank and US air injection - is that common on a 3.0?)
No fair changing the symptom! "Horrific sounding (banging and instability)" = confirm/deny cam timing. They got smarter on later models and added some approximate marks/pointers that would allow someone to quickly determine from the outside if something really bad happened to the cam timing. Wouldn't hurt to paint some small white marks at 12 o'clock on each cam sprocket flange when you know they are in the right places to have this easy external check capability - JMO.
Read the engine family marking on the top of the engine block at cyl #1 -- that will identify what engine is in it. Coolant tanks can be substituted, and the air injection on a 1984-85 US 3.0L and a 1986-89 US 3.2L are virtually identical (both use the "pulse" type air injection - no belt-driven air pump).
Ill go back and check the timing. I replaced the belts 2 months ago and the timing was perfect. Ran great. The banging sounds horrible. It turns over smooth. Is it only running for a few seconds, because of the cold start injector? Any ideas why it would start for a few seconds and then not at all for hours later?
Bad News... Time for either valve job or engine rebuild bank 1 - Front head 1 - 50lbs 2 - 0 lbs 3 - 0 lbs 4 - 100 lbs bank 2 - rear head 1 - 140 lbs 2 - 140 lbs 3 - 120 lbs 4 - 110 lbs I used a bore stop and can see the ding marks on the pistons.
Wow man!! Something definitely let go for it jump a tooth or two to damage that engine. If the engine was running good before, something definitely happened there. Sorry to hear, please let us know what happened man.
