Help me pick a “new” watch | FerrariChat

Help me pick a “new” watch

Discussion in 'Fine Watches, Jewelry, & Clothes' started by walnut, Nov 5, 2023.

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  1. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    I’ve been looking at some “new” wrist watches. I’ve developed quite a love for pocket watches and am slowly building that side of my collection, but there is something about the 40s-50s men’s watches that I really enjoy. Currently I have my eye on:

    (1) Omega Deville Automatic - Calibre 582
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    (2) Ulysse Nardin - Calibre N 00
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    (3) Oris (pointer date) - Calibre 302
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    (4) Girard Perregaux - Calibre GP12
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    Are they all 100% original? Probably not the dials on a few but I’m ok with a “resto-mod”.
    What would you get if you were to choose one or at least, what would you suggest I get?
     
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  2. vee12

    vee12 Formula Junior
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    I'm really digging the Oris with the old school date indicator.
     
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  3. blkfxstc

    blkfxstc Formula Junior
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    Slight nod to the UN over the Oris.
     
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  4. WPOZZZ

    WPOZZZ F1 Veteran

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    I like the color of the GP and Omega.
     
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  5. italiafan

    italiafan F1 World Champ
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    Could there be a more boring watch than that UN. Of those 4 I think the Omega is most interesting.
     
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  6. ronfrohock

    ronfrohock F1 Rookie
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  7. GrayTA

    GrayTA F1 World Champ
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    I might slightly lean toward the Omega, but the UN is pretty close after that.

    I do dig the Oris as well, but the Omega and UN rate higher to me.


    PDG
     
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  8. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    The GP is no longer available but I’ve also found a few interesting LeCoulture, two different Bovet, and a Hamilton Ventura. Looks like I might need to either keep looking or just buy something already!
     
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  9. poljav

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    I like the Omega, but post pics of the LeCoultre and Bovets. Have you looked at Wittnauer?
     
  10. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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  11. SVanDyck

    SVanDyck Formula Junior

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    When I first got into collecting, I started with Rolex, AP, Patek. I sold most of those. Now I am really into ultra-thin manual wind watches. Piaget is becoming one of my favorites now. I would suggest possibly an Altiplano. I really like the ones that have open work dials. These watches ae not cheap, but far less expensive second hand.
     
  12. ArtS

    ArtS F1 World Champ
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    Of the watches listed, I like the Nardin. Clean lines and a decent brand.

    What's the case color, budget and purpose?

    If dress, I love V&C from the period. To me, the teardrop lug round is beautiful:
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    https://fabsuisse.com/vacheron-constantin-18k-vintage-round-36mm-classic-large-lugs-circa-1945-50/

    Or flared lugs:
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    For white gold, I'd go simpler designs or square/rectangular.

    I like Glycine's dress stuff from the '30s - '50s especially with a black dial. Good watches and a lot of bang for the buck - at the time they were a legitimate brand. I've forgotten the ebauche used in the gold ones but its a good quality 18J for manual wind and it allows the watch to have a really nice profile. There's also a bumper automatic but the case design became clunky in order to accommodate the hefty auto-weight. The hour hand is killer, especially with a black dial! There are four basic styles in 18k, two conservative, two a bit more flashy. These are the flashy ones:
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    Something like this in stainless is pretty nice:
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    https://www.visionvintagewatches.com/product-page/1950-s-glycine-salmon-dial

    Or this (wrong hands):
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/115867944240?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=115867944240&targetid=1964692796282&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9004054&poi=&campaignid=19646921471&mkgroupid=144665490686&rlsatarget=pla-1964692796282&abcId=9305263&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAuqKqBhDxARIsAFZELmJhJRp1lBOEYa108-NyMjvQIEaGttpbD9jTQQhTNzGCM3Ip7TI8s9AaAm8NEALw_wcB
     
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  13. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    I’m in a sub $1k price point right now. If I wait a while, that might go up. I would love to have a Vacheron but right now, I don’t think I can swing the price yet.

    As for case color and purpose? I’m open to pretty much any color and the purpose is to have another cool watch to enjoy. I am drawn more towards dress watches lately but do not want to limit my options.
     
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  14. SVanDyck

    SVanDyck Formula Junior

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    Do you mind sharing where you shop for these vintage pieces at around 1,000.00?
     
  15. ArtS

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    Men's V&C would be tough for $1k, I think they are in the $4k-$5k range where they've been or 20 years. It's why I never got around to buying one. If you like the 18K Glycines, I could send you one or two to try out - they are under $1K. If you can get the U/N for under $1k, that sounds pretty good too.
    Regards,

    Art S.
     
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  16. poljav

    poljav F1 Veteran
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  17. ArtS

    ArtS F1 World Champ
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  18. poljav

    poljav F1 Veteran
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    Yes, correct on the 2nd & 3rd watches. I was a little to quick in posting, I thought they might be of interest to Rich, looks/style wise, but didn't read the specs all the way through. :)

    How about vintage inspired? Too modern?
    https://baltic-watches.com/en/collections/watches?gclid=Cj0KCQiAuqKqBhDxARIsAFZELmI7EAD97jQkBISCkykCARdz6quxnfyiAp9A9gzL9Kfr7d2xLWfVF5UaAmPQEALw_wcB
     
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  19. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    All are terrific ideas, thank you! It has certainly expanded my list to consider.

    @poljav , I have a mid 1930s Waltham wrist watch that now has a 3/0s 21J Riverside movement in it and I love it. It has a little more fiddling needed to get the mainspring to not slip off of the arbor near full wind but it’s very close. I also have a Lord Elgin on its way to lab (picture below) that will need some work and cleaning but I think will be an interesting piece.

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    As @ArtS is aware, I will soon have an opportunity to work on recasing some American movements and hopefully adding one to my collection. For now, I’ll stay out of the “marriage watches” though the first one you posted where it is rotated 45 degrees, I REALLY like.

    The “vintage inspired” don’t really do it for me though. Not that they aren’t nice watches, just personal taste.
     
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  20. walnut

    walnut F1 Rookie
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    I just haunt eBay. Sometimes you find a good deal, sometimes you have to wait a long time. If you’re not looking for anything specific though, you can get lucky.
     
  21. ArtS

    ArtS F1 World Champ
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    Rich,

    The caveat I use for any ebay watch is: 'assume its a project' and 'think about what is the worst case scenario the pictures and text show and bid accordingly.' If you do so and assume a 10% loss rate to your ebay purchase history you may end up happy with ebay. Also, set a low value to your time on ebay purchases. If you are doing otherwise go read the 'I hate ebay' posts abound the internet... :^)

    I am confident you know this but Joe may not. Remember, giving a vintage project to your local Jeweler or AD may not produce a satisfactory outcome.

    Regards,

    Art S.
     
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  22. ArtS

    ArtS F1 World Champ
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    Rich & Pol,

    The neat thing about the two Elgin 'marriages' posted is that the cases allow the retention of the original dial. The 45 degree case is an open face and the 'regular' is a hunting case movement.

    I think the 'vintage inspired' watches are great for someone that likes the style but wants the convenience of modern/new function.

    Regards,

    Art S.
     
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