599 Battery Change

It's pretty simple, just takes a bit longer than a normal battery swap mainly due to the location, it's a little awkward, lower your windows first and disable the alarm on the key fob. 10mm and 13mm required, you'll be done in 20 min.

 

Also don’t forget to disconnect the battery killer switch (red plastic key on the right side). Reconnect when the replacement is done. Also Negative than positive when you disconnect and the other way around when you reconnect. There is also a gas evacuation flexible that needs unplugged and replugged …

 

AGM batteries do not need the gas vent hose.

 

Also be careful positive terminal doesn't arc against the "roof" of the compartment. It happened to me. There's barely any clearance. And don't plan on trying to put the right side wire on the post after new battery is in compartment (not enough clearance to get it over the top). And don't plan on trying to put the right side wire on the post before new battery is in compartment (wire isn't long enough). I ended up having to sort of balance the big heavy battery on the edge of the compartment 1/2 way in 1/2 way out and connect up the wire. Ahh the memories. There's probably a trick to it all, but I wasn't tricky enough that day.

 

I covered the roof with thick duck tape …

 

I just did a Battery replacement on Saturday - or I should say Ferrari of Atlanta did it for me... all those wires and relays on top of the battery freak me out! What had happened is about two weeks ago I took the car to get washed at Onsite Shine here in Buckhead - Atlanta - they do a great job all hand washed waxed etc. They left the key "on" so when I got in the car to go home - no start. The owner of On Site Shine - Jim Thomas, jumped the car for me so i could get home... and then gave me a free wash and was super apologetic. ... so no harm no foul. I put the car on the tender and it seemed ok. So fast forward to last week, I took the car to get the emissions done for Ga. plate renewal... and it started fine and operated well, when I got home, Pulled the car in the garage and shut it off. my wife comes out and says can you back it up so She can get something from the storage closet... so go to start the car - no start. just dead. So plugged it back in and it started ok the next day. Called FOA they said come on in Sat. Am we'll change it. Woke up Saturday Am - pouring rain and cold, the car barely started, and ran really rough, to the point when I pulled out it was not running clean and almost died starting off in 1st gear. so I drove it around the block several times to get the alternator going, and then decided ok I'll risk getting on the highway. I had all kinds of weird codes - TPMS, Battery light - engine light come on then go off... made it to the dealership and no problems since. as a matter of fact I would normally get the parking sensor failure code - that seamed to have gone away... its crazy how the battery can affect the car. The Tech told me the battery in the car was from 2017 - so I got a lot of service out of that battery!

 

If the following didn't happen to me personally, I wouldn't believe it if someone else told me.

Back around 1994 I had a 1990 Nissan 300ZX. One morning when I started the car (it was outside) the temperature on the dash read -3 F. I never even knew it would read in negative tempertaures. The engine turned over normally and the car started right up. I had to drive about 3 miles to get onto I95. No sooner did I get on the highway than all sorts of dash lights went on and then the engine died. I had to coast into the break down lane. The battery was totally dead.

What mystified me was how could a battery that was about to die start a V6 engine in -3 degree temps. As I said if some one told me this I wouldn't believe them, but it's true, believe me!

 

Whoa, It's good to know that your car didn't suffer from this. I've always heard "NEVER jump-start your Ferrari"!

 

I think the newer ones post 458 - can have problems with a jump start and uneven voltage..... regardless its not something I would want to do a lot

 

They all have problems when jumped. My airbag lamp is still on from a tech jumping her and she has gone through two airbag ECUs so far.

 

I, also, just replaced my battery. Sort of easy but make sure to disconnect POS 1st then NEG. The POS has a block of attached VERY important wires. Make sure to have each wire connector retightened securely or you may start to see "electrical", "alternator" codes slow down & limp mode.... ask me how I know... derp. Retightening on the side of road solved it. Honestly, I thought my initial job was good enough, but wiggling the block back onto terminal had a couple come loose. Also, make sure those wires are not pinched by ANYTHING. Turn on key but don't start. Wait 1 minute. Turn off. Turn on & wait for dry electrical run routine. Press start. Idle for a bit, then drive & reset TPMS via overhead button when warmed up. It TPMS fail, wait a bit & keep trying. BTW, TPMS battery, wheel well bled out on mine due to age & needed replacing. Good mech can source less expensive replacement.

 

I bought new tires for Christmas present to myself... and the TPMS always takes a full day for it to go out... I drove it for about an hour and it finally went out and all is well...

 

I need an Interstate AGM battery for my 2010 599HGTE, Amazon has MTZ-34R AGM 800 CCA will this work ? Note its a 34R not 36R, cant find a compatibility chart, I saw one once on FChat.
I have checked dimensions and its a perfect fit. Coupon price $382.
Thanks for your help,
Ron