Also, I missed the hydraulic line going to the return (reservoir?) With the motor running, it looks like the fluid going through the main valve goes to the return line... Image Unavailable, Please Login So perhaps running the motor by jumping the relay would be completely safe. A pressure buildup in the lines would simply force more fluid into the reservoir.
I honestly don't know what position they are currently in, but from the geometry of the top linkage, it suggests that the capote flaps ONLY close when the top is down. When the top is up there's wires, hardware, etc where those flaps would go, so mine must be open. I've dug my head as much as I can in the B pillars and can't be 100% certain, but I will take the risk and assume they are open as two objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time HAHA
The top is "locked" into place when the ignition is off by the cover forcing the "kinematics" into a locked position. That's the snap that's heard when the cover goes down all the way. To release the lock, the cover rams pull back on that "kinematics" arm and that releases the lock. Kind of hard to put into words. I made a video of how the cover locks.
Just jumper the relay (socket) with a suitable piece of insulated wire. Expect sparks. The relay is connected to the battery permanently so you don't need to turn on the ignition. Sockets 30 and 87 (red/white and black wires if you can see them) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Interesting. I had seen your video before, but it's good for putting all the pieces together. Anyway, if my (latest) theory is correct, even running the motor (alone) shouldn't activate the pistons, unlocking the mechanism. The fluid is simply dumped back in the reservoir for the motor to use again.
The trouble with using the battery cutoff is that it's too far away from the relay. If something does go awry, you won't be able to remove the jumper wire quickly. You can buy plug-in relay bypass switches, but they are a little expensive for one-off applications. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225845828599? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well, I suppose you could turn off the battery relatively quickly, but you might want to be close to the pump when turning on the power to make sure it is the roof pump running and check for unusual noises coming from the roof mechanisms.
I am on the fence regarding F430 Spider vs F430 Coupe which is my reason for my interest in how this thread progresses.
Thanks for checking. Well, this kinda confuses things even more. Opening Sequence: Step #3: Flap control In case of a closed softtop, the flaps are basically opened. The flapmotor is activated in the opening direction for a short time to ensure the flap position. Flapmotor output open F.M/A = 1 Limit switch Flaps open E.F/A = 1 Limit switch Flaps closed E.F/Z = 0 How do they define a short time? Long enough to drop the flaps completely? Logic 1 on the "Limit switch flaps open E.F/A" sounds like the flaps have to be fully down. (EDIT) If the flaps are fully down already, perhaps the short time is just to put additional pressure on the fully open/down microswitch? I think we really need to get a ohm reading on the flaps fully down sensor (via the ECU connector). I also have to figure out how the Window ECU knows that the windows are fully down, so it can send a signal to the Roof ECU giving it the ok to open/close the top. AFAIK, there is no fully down sensor (unless it's picking up the change in current when the window hits the endstops). Does it even care if the windows are fully down or is it happy with the small drop you get when opening the doors??? Maybe a Spider owner can drop their windows down a couple of inches manually and then see if the roof switch makes the windows drop further?
When attempting to lower the top, the windows roll down no matter what their position is. I tried full up, indexed with the door open, as well as rolled down partially.
On a side note, is there anything I have to do with the immobilizer (aka alarm) for the car after disconnecting/reconnecting the master power? It now beeps and makes noises that it hasn't before and frankly I hate the beeps...
Wise move. Excellent. So we are back to: Window ECU perhaps not giving the confirmation signal that the windows are actually down (assuming the Window ECU knows that the windows are fully down). "Flap down" microswitch not showing flaps fully down. Since the ECU has been changed, these are the only things stopping the progression to hydraulic operation....assuming it's not something silly like the Roof ECU not getting a valid vehicle speed signal. I assume your speedo is working. Did we check the engine lid switch signal at the Roof ECU connector itself?
My speedometer has always been working well. The windows do their magic with the switch operation, so clearly a signal is getting to the windows, but no clue if the signal goes anywhere past that. The engine lid switch seems to be working appropriately as I can get the car into gear and drive, etc. I haven't checked it a the roof ECU connector. Where was that one again? LOL all of these wires, relays, and terminals are blurring together on me.
Also how in the heck can I check any microswitches? They are buried in the running gear of the top and I can't move the top. hmmm. Stupid car haha 17,000 miles and this thing is having this many problems. The joy of owning a Ferrari I guess.
They can be checked from the ECU connector: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/149417352/ I wonder if it's possible to hear the flap motor running briefly (put the windows fully down first so the flap motor sound isn't drowned out.
The engine lid switch input should be on pin 5 of the upper Roof ECU connector Image Unavailable, Please Login (EDIT) Check the harness side (with the Roof ECU connector disconnected). I believe my image shows the Roof ECU side (or the wire side of the plug, not the face of the plug) I've flipped the image to show the face of the connector: Image Unavailable, Please Login Pin 1 is at the top left.
It is possible to activate the flap motor with jumper wires... see this post... https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/149417560/ BUT, after what you said about there not being enough space for the flaps to move to the up position (with the roof closed), perhaps it's not wise to try to move them. If you did decide to try it, I would only power the motor momentarily (in both directions). Anyway, the flap switch resistance check should tell you if the flaps are in the right position for opening the roof. See post above for pin configuration.
Where is 17Q the flap motor to jumper from 4Q? Any clue for polarity of which way they'd go? I know we were unsure before.
