Ive never heard that 3 x 8s had poor build quality, or that they were fragile. Now that my AC system has been completely rebuilt, it works pretty good, you cant compare it to modern cars AC, but then again, not many modern cars or Ferraris can compare to the 3 x 8s. Now I dont have much bad to say about F Car drive trains ( other than the 355s bad valve guides / TRs bad gearboxes ) , the problem is with the ancillary parts. The manifolds, interiors coming unglued, faulty F1 electronics and some other issues I cant think of at the moment. Ferraris are made to me driven, the fact that most owners do not, is when problems start to arise . I felt an immediate improvement in my 328s forward motion once I replaced my factory clutch with the kevlar unit . My car when I bought it had a little under 20 k miles, and the clutch started to feel weak after about 4 years, not sure what the miles were in 2003 , but thats when I replaced the clutch. After 20 years of driving my car properly, the clutch feels the same as it did 20 years ago, now there is something to be said about that . Im running 17s with some really fat rubber on my 89 . Big G
So a quick question for the experts. In this video by TheHeliDoctor he states this lower bearing must be removed and a circlip behind also removed before removing the bellhousing. However http://www.camerafilters.com/ec/clutch.htm states the bearing will pull out as the bellhousing is removed. Does anyone know for sure? thanks, Dan
Bearing needs to be removed to remove the backstop and circlip. Reason is the casting is not large enough to move past the circlip. That's an oil galley passageway and there's an O ring seal between the belhousing and midplate where the input shaft runs. The function of the circlip is to hold what I call the bearing inner race backstop, it's what the ring nut tensions against when tqd in place. The belhousing 'floats' the outer race and hence the large C clip there. The bearing is held fast to the input shaft with the lower gear.
Thanks smg2 for the input. The bell housing came off easily enough, however it was very cramped and required careful rotation to actually clear and get out. I have a new crank oil seal and pilot bearing Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I was expecting the clutch disk to have disintegrated and be in pieces since the problem was the clutch wasn't disengaging. To my surprise it was intact. There was significant rust on the flywheel and pressure plate. Hoping that after cleaning the flywheel and new pressure plate and disk all will work normally. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Some 308 of earlier vintage have the casting hole too small to clear the circlip. The QV and 328 bell housing will clear the circlip so it does not have to be removed.
Thanks, yes I found this to be true. I pulled the bell housing forward and with it, the bearing pulled forward also. Then pushing back the bell housing I was easily able to remove the bearing. I went ahead and removed the circlip since it was easily accessible but saw these was plenty of room for it to clear the housing.
Cleaned up the bell housing and cover. Going to install a new seal in the upper flange that guides the release bearing. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
New seal installed, bell housing is almost ready Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Good luck, the new clutch arrived. Decided to install a new rear main oil seal along with a new pilot bearing Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The flywheel face doesn't look great, but there's no gouged areas and more importantly the surface is flat, so not going to have it ground. The clutch disk alignment tool also arrived today, so clutch is now installed Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
