have a 360 Spider , 2003. My doors will not lock using the remote - i hear it clicking inside the door but does not move the lock lever. The window switches all seem to work fine, meaning when inside the car and you lift up the door handle, window drops a little etc. closing the door window rolls up the little amount it rolled down as part of the door opening. I can lock the door externally with the key, both passenger and drive side - however - when i use the remote to set the alarm and lock the doors, alarm sets but the doors do not lock. the interior door lock lever i can see thru the window and it does not move to lock position - thus is not locked. Soooo.....any thoughts.... i searched the site and did not find any defined solution to this problem as of yet. Appreciate the help....
Ed text me your cell number I will do a telemedicine call with you tomorrow with top top Ferrari master technician over the phone don’t worry I will help you Mike 973-610-7111 https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/anyone-that-wants-to-buy-or-sell-a-ferrari-the-right-way.586271/
Do the armrest lock levers normally move on your car when the car is locked with the fob? On later cars, the lock lever doesn't have a mechanical linkage to the lock actuator. If you have two microswitches (two plugs) on the armrest door lever, you have the later model. Image Unavailable, Please Login I suppose you could have a lock actuator issue or, if you have mechanical linkages, maybe the linkages are jamming and not allowing the lock actuator to move into the correct position. Make sure that both doors are properly closed.
My 575M had the same symptoms when I first got her. Needed a new battery in the fob. LED on fob illuminated, alarm armed, but not enough juice to get the doors to lock.
1. that is the issue - will not lock with the FOB 2..The lock lever has a mechanical linkage - there is 1 micro switch on the armrest lever. mechanically - i can rotate the key and move the door lock lever to the lock position - which in turn moves the internal door latch actuator. What im seeing with the car off, door closed - hit the key fob to set alarm and the door tries to lock but does not. Alarm does set, light on dash blinks as it should etc..... Seems like when i then try to lock the door with the key, i get the lock lever to move to the lock position - then electronically something takes control and causes the lock lever on the arm rest to open position and thus is not locked. hope this helps clarify what is going on
The key is mechanically moving the lock actuator. There is a position sensor in the lock actuator which tells the Window ECU that you are trying to lock the door mechanically with the key. The Window ECU assists by electrically completing the locking of both doors (via a command to the Door ECU). If, say, the other door fails to lock electrically (as sensed by its lock actuator position sensor), the Window ECU unlocks both doors. The Window ECU doesn't like the disagreement between the two doors. When you lock the other door with the key, does the system try to lock both doors? You can check the lock actuator microswitches on both doors using an ohmmeter (with power off the car). You can do checks either from the big plug near the door hinge or at the Window ECU connectors. It won't hurt to reset the plugs on the Window ECU. The pins can develop high resistance. Wiring diagrams available if required.
Ian, ok ill will check this in a few hrs - yes, agree with the key i am moving the lock actuator up and down manually (can feel the solenoid /gear moving) with the key and thus when this happens it moves the lock lever on the interior door handle , as it should . Operation feel smooth with no binds. I'll check the switch with the ohmmeter for both sides. Wiring diagram would be helpful and location of the Window ECU......I'll search on line for window ecu physical location.
I had this with my 550 - it was actually purely mechanical, the linkage failed to move enough to completely lock one door, and thus - as mentioned somewhere above - the electrical system took over to completely unlock both doors.
found more links to read and study.......a nice flow chart could work on this issue...... reading , reading, reading....
Should be green box above the driver's left foot (mounted on the side of the car). One connector on the top, two on the bottom. The connector which might be causing issues in this case may be the larger of the two lower plugs. Here's the wiring diagram for the door: https://www.dropbox.com/t/UyGWN18C2KpNpEhG From the door plug (pins 2 & 3), follow the wiring to pins 1&2 on doorlock actuator 10N/11N. The wiring is the same for both the passenger and driver's doors (other than the temperature sensor for the HVAC system) Here's where it gets a bit more difficult to follow.... the wiring from the doors to the Window ECU: https://www.dropbox.com/t/9QkBmDMvl2th3zsh Follow the driver's/passenger's door wiring from the door plugs 1F and 11C (pins 2 & 3) to Window ECU plug 13F. Plugs 1F and 11C can be seen on the far sides of the diagram. As mentioned above, Window ECU Plug 13 F is the larger of the bottom plugs (20 pins). See the top of the diagram. Pins 1 & 11 on 13F correspond to the passenger door. As a reference, pins 2 & 12 correspond to the passenger's door. Links expire in 6 days. Here's the Window ECU plug (as seen from the face of the plug, not the wiring side): Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's a photo of an older type Window ECU with the plug lettering shown: Image Unavailable, Please Login
your actuators are shot or stuck from years and years of grim inside... remove them and try to grease them or replace. Had the same thing on older cars (provided the battery is charged).
OK - ISSUE Solved. Ian thank you for the wiring diagram and detailed exploded view. I was able to check all the micro switches and all seem to be in good working order. Still stumped by this I called Michael Craig as in post #2 and he conferenced in his 2ox something year Ferrari mechanic and we had a discussion on the issues, symptoms and potential fixes. What i was able to determine thru his help as well: 1. Passenger door latch was loose (3 allen head screws that secure the latch were all loose) 2. Checking the door latch operation on pass side, it seem that the latch and lever response was slow and not moving as freely as you would expect - thus it was a bit gummed up, so a good cleaning and relub with WD inside the latch and the lock solenoid actuator. 3. On the driver side - checked latch and was secure, but the same grim causing the latch to react slowly - so another clean and sub and WD the lock actuator as well. 4. The interior door handle on the driver side was slightly binding at rest position - meaning after you raise the handle to unlock the door, going back to its rest position, it would bind as to not fully seat - thus causing the window drop micro switch to sometimes not open or close. Bind was caused by the black CUP that fits in the arm rest - it is thin plastic and a slight amount of warpage at the door lift handle as it seats itself. Hours later (yea i won't say how many i spent on this) i was able to get the lock actuators to move and lock with out any issues - check with the key fob and worked as planned. I was able to hear the actuators firmly move (distinct sound) when they both latch. So confusion from either door caused the FOB not to work correctly - as the doors are independent - the system logic seems to be tied together. Mario and LVP488- your comments above were also right on the money as well. No replacement of parts needed, in the end a few long hours and good cleaning and securing all the moving parts. The car itself is a clean vehicle, not any corrosion, AZ car with the orig owner, just 20 yrs of dried grease, road grime and loose parts! Thank you again F-Chatters and Michael and Fonzi (the f car mechanic) for all your help. PS - thinking thru the comment about the battery on the key fob - i did replace it, but thinking thru it, all it does is send a signal - which it was working, turning on the alarm system, meaning i dont think (could be wrong) but as long as the signal is received the car battery and car electronics takes control of the solenoids .
Great feedback, thanks. Basically, it sounded like the mechanical bits were causing the lock actuator to not move to the correct position, at least not in a timely manner, triggering the Window ECU to react. If the door isn't latched closed properly, the lock actuator is physically blocked from moving into the correct position. System logic won't allow you to lock either door with one door not properly latched/locked (so that you don't walk away from the car leaving one door not closed properly). On earlier cars, such as the F355, you had the lock indicator on the window sills to show the doors had locked, but even these cars had the same logic as the 360. No latch (on any door) = no lock (on both doors)
yes, believe u are correct.....not complicated, u just need to understand the interaction and logic - duh, then i makes sense......i believe on the pass side where the latch was loose, as u said did not enable the lock actuator to properly sense what was going on....when i address the pass side - bam, everything started working as it should. Further work i was able to see the grim on the driver latch (sluggish) and the handle situation. Thank you again......
These diagrams are amazing!! I download them every time you post them hoping I'll never need them... And insanely complicated!! I don't understand why it needs to be so complicated...
People love gadgets.... central locking, electric mirrors, mirror heat, electric windows, climate control.... Whatever happened to wind-up windows?
