I been following.this .simply great teamwork .. nice work I would think a diag tool on live data will help adjust the switch ..just like on a bmw Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Now what on earth is that screw head? Torx, hex head, or philips?? I guess I need a hot second to see what fits. Its dang near impossible to get to, I don't know how I'm going to. The first pic is the view of the screw as looking through the driver's B pillar area. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Launch has a capote function on it, but doesn't provide ANY data. I tried getting the module info, faults, and live streams..... got nothing
For future reference, is this the hole through which you were able to push the microswitch? See arrow. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Unfortunately, there are no pictures online for this part. At least it's in stock if you drop it (P/N Ferrari 66685800) How much did you have to move your microswitch to get activation? It doesn't look like you could bend the lever arm on the switch enough to make better contact. The metal looks too thick anyway. If the microswitch body mount cannot be adjusted enough to make proper contact, maybe it is the actual microswitch not operating properly?
I have an alternate hypothesis. It could be that either the flap motor, or the complex system to transmit the power (it's like a speedometer cable) is not supplying enough power to move the flap hinge where it needs to be to lock. It may be like the cover kinematics that force a mechanical lock to trigger the microswitch. I'd be looking at that possibility. After all, the microswitch used to work perfectly until it didn't. Was it the microswitch or a more dynamic component like the motor or power transport... Something to consider anyway. This has been a great thread and I've learned a great deal from it.
The microswitch body is adjustable, you can see it in the bottom of the attachment point. Its an eliptical hole that allows adjustment forward and aft to make the microswitch contact fully, sooner or later depending upon adjustment. I just need to move it 2-3mm more closely to the capote flap arm to allow it to make better contact.
I'm trying to understand the geometry.... Image Unavailable, Please Login Is that an endstop? If so, I wonder if the opposite side is hitting the endstop first and not allowing the flap slider to go far enough on the switch side. Is the other side just as hard to get to? As John says, there may be something in the drive not working properly. Or is the slider contacting something else first. Is that elastic hitting the slider? Can you see what shape the slider is under the microswitch arm? Is it wedge shaped to slowly apply pressure on the switch? Not that there is any easy solution to this, but perhaps switch adjustment is the easiest (without removing the whole roof cassette). You just have to devise tools to get in there. How did you take that photo? Did you buy a keyhole camera?
No, I wedged my phone back there and used the front camera to take random pictures until I got that one. It was a blind shoot on it.
Your hypothesis is not invalid. I had an issue with the drive cable before where it somehow got the capote flaps out of sync and they wouldn't close fully on the passenger side. I had that fixed maybe a year ago, so possibly its that issue rearing its ugly head again, but why and what has caused it?? Hey guys want to dig into and troubleshoot a new system? HAHAHA
Also, great questions, I will dig my head into there and see if I can get some for you. A lot of my slider knowledge from the capote flap and its slider came from feel as its extremely difficult to see anything in there regardless of top position. I don't know what shape it is as it travels at a bit of an angle, its not just a pure vertical channel that it travels in. And no clue if that is an end stop, but I don't believe the elastic is hitting any part of the capote mechanism, again I will double check to be sure.
Morning Bryan, Can you remind us what you think happened that caused the top problems you are having? If its avoidable it would sure be handy to know. Ciao, Carm
One thing I love about eBay is the parts list for the 360. If you want to have a detailed look at any part, just check eBay and you're likely to find a bunch of examples. This one is great for the flap actuator. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284940581716 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What, you don't want to read almost 200 posts? LOL But it all started when the top failed in transit and wouldn't go all the way stowed. After cycling the roof to see if it would work, it stopped moving at all. My suspicion is the following: 1. Elastics worn on the roof prevented the big bar in the middle of the top from pulling back which made the top not completely stow. 2. Me thinking that cycling the top would fix it, eventually caused the drive cable from the flap motor to the capote flap system to slip and knock the left (driver's) capote flap out of alignment by just enough so that it no longer makes contact with the microswitch. Fix: replace elastics on the roof and get the drive cable resync'ed for the left capote flap to drive it just those few milimeters further down to make contact with the microswitch. PS the pics show what the top will look like when attempting to stow without the big bar in the middle pulled back
I think another question is why did it get out of alignment? It could be the cable itself. It could be too much resistance in the flap kinematics (aka hinge). It could be the screw drive on the flap kinematics. It could be none of the above. What is really fantastic though is now you have a culprit for the malfunction and can proceed with fixing it.
I was wondering how the rotary motion was converted into linear motion ... I see now there is a long threaded rod Image Unavailable, Please Login We just need to figure out what limits the travel. There must be some endstops somewhere ... or is the travel simply limited by the fully down switch shutting off power to the motor. For safety, you would think there would be some kind of physical endstop. Looking at your parts photos, John, it seems unlikely that the cover mechanism provides the endstop. Since there is only one motor for both flaps, it may be best to see if the other flap is hitting something, stopping the entire mechanism. Maybe you could detatch the drive cables at the motor and drive both sides until they stop moving to see if they have physical endstops, then wind them back a few turns (equal turns on both sides) whilst monitoring the output of the fully down switch to make sure you still have "fully down"? Then reattach the cables? Image Unavailable, Please Login But then how do you know the "fully up" switch will be activated?
If you adjust the cable for down that was my exact question, how do you get them to ensure full up??? My mech synchronized them before with some voodoo magic.
To get the hydraulics to work, did you push the microswitch in this direction? Image Unavailable, Please Login The microswitch lever seems to be resting on the top of the channel (or is there a small cutout in the channel?). If you were able to loosen the allen headed bolt with, say, a flex drive, would the microswitch move any further towards the flap slider?
Here's the procedure to realign the flap: (from N2.17 in the WSM) Image Unavailable, Please Login Here it is in text: (no voodoo required) In the case that the flap driven by the replaced transmission cable is not aligned with the one on the opposite side, said cable must be detached from the engine and using the wrench (C) in the tool kit supplied with the car, turn the shaft (B) until the flap is aligned.
But does balancing left and right at the down limit ensure that the flap drives upwards to the correct limit? I still don't quite understand the flap drive mechanism. Does this slot determine the physical limits of the flap? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Is this the flap down limit switch from a different angle? Image Unavailable, Please Login (EDIT: Actually, that seems to be the up limit microswitch)
@Qavion - The images I included are missing the "up" microswitch. I saw a number of other examples on eBay that had the second microswitch but none had a clear view of the actuator. It's the arm with the spring though.
If the outboard attachment mechanism of the flap moves up and down on the jackscrew, the angle of the microswitch striker suggests it hits the microswitch arm as it rises to the upper limit (???). Image Unavailable, Please Login
