430 Can someone confirm I'm not crazy: "soft" clutch reset

Here’s a pic of the last 8 years’ clutch wear readings for my very late 08 using a Launch Pro S Mini since 2020. I’ve been using it for the past four years and it’s been very consistent with the previous owner’s indy, although I agree not 100% as you can see by this year’s reading vs last year’s. Maybe I’m misinterpreting what you are saying but the Launch does read the clutch wear on 08s.




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I am not sure adjusting the PIS was really the issue .. especially you say slipping out of gear ( the PIS is important for changing gears / setting off)
Making it more loose is my mind counter what I would do - hmm - interesting
Slipping out of gear - usually worn clutch, worn solenoids , or bad actuator grid ( needs a relearn) - not usually a PIS issue

 

Not sure if you were responding to Corey or me or both .. I said the clutch wear index does not appear on any diag tool after 2007 as pre my explanation above
I can't remember looking at clutch wear parameter on a 2008 - I always do the calculation as Corey mentioned above and not trust software to calculate

 

oh god - that's concerning! they are the only dealer in my country - so not much alternative but to use them, but they don't generally inspire confidence ...

can I do the actuator relearn with an OBD tool or do they need to do it at the dealer?

 

You can do a relearn with your tool .. but I would recommend taking a print out of all the data items in the TCU data stream before and after to see if anything changed in positions

on a cold transmission - just put tin neutral release brake and run self-learn - key on engine off

 

great stuff, thanks so much Flash - and apols for somewhat derailing the thread

 

Never let your battery voltage drop below 12v on the re-learn. It is the riskiest procedure in the TCU.

 

Speaking of Batteries which ones are people using? It seems very important to run a high quality batter in most late model cars.

 

I have an optima red now, but when it goes I'm going Antigravity lithium because it always keeps a reserve and is much lighter. Will just need a new CTEK battery maintainer to use it, but I already have the adapter to fit the factory plug.

 

Much much smaller tech LOL but I went with Lithium on my Golf Cart (Camp Ground Use) too to avoid having to be concerned with Charging it over the Winter.

My Ducati also has Lithium, again great for low maint, zero concerns.

Do they cost more, oh yea but well worth it!

I have a couple of Lithium chargers already and if/when I get a Ferrari again in my Garage I will replace the Batter in it soon then later if it shows any sign of weakness since it helps you avoid so many little issues that can be very annoying and frustrating.

 

I highly recommend this below. It is also a tad shorter than your run of the mill H6, so it clears the top retaining bar better, no risk of shorting the terminals.

https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/automotive/ag-t6-rs/

 

Sorry for the sidebar Scott

I suspect there aren't as many 2008-2009 F430 folks on here as 2005-2007 and your scenario would be best compared against the 2008-2009 model years.

Hopefully someone that has one of those (2008-2009) model years lives in a non-snow covered part of the Country so they can enlighten us on their results.

 

I always felt that it was introducing a temporary error state. I didn't notice any kind of difference afterwards.

 

I did the procedure just now; and it came back with a beep and "1" for first gear in the selector with AUTO at bottom, and disappeared once I released, and I engaged 1st and got going. Seat of the pants feeling... it seemed the engagement was much quicker and less slipping ? I mean the time from car started moving from moment I felt the clutch fully engaged was much less.... Took off with medium throttle like I do all the time.

Drove well after that, changes were very smooth.

I did record the values @flash32 mentioned before and after, not much changed
EDIT: actually, clutch wear changed from 13.95% to 14.58%, all else stayed the same.
Oil leak with Clutch electrovalve on 25.80 cc/min
Oil leak with clutch electrovalve off 9.6 cc/min
Clutch wear index 603
Clutch pressure plate travel : 0.54 inch
PIS : 4.12

 

I did a pis reset recently, thats why my wear index is so low... It will go up and stabilize in under 2000 somewhere in time (on my car).

 

You should always reset the clutch wear index when changing PIS

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On my 2009 I haven’t done it in a while but don’t know if it’s a sugar pill or not but it does seem crisper. The procedure I used was to pull and hold the paddles till it beeps then turn the car off. Next time I start and drive off it feels better.


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I think I did ? Does it go from 0 up, or it goes down from 4000, can't remember.

 

It starts from 4000 upon reset and goes up or down depending on tightness and driving style

I like to see mid to upper 2k for typical city cycle ..with shifting and stop and goes

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A lot of great information sharing going on, this community is fantastic

 

There is definitely something to this.

Took the Challenge Stradale out for a drive this morning. After warming the car up, I remembered this thread.

I held the paddles back at the same time on my CS and after about 10 seconds there was a loud “beep” and a “clunk” back at the transmission. Similar trannny sound as when running the re-alignment program using a SD on a 355. I’ve never run that program on the CS, but I guess there’s a similar one.

There was a substantial difference when taking off from a stand still. The clutch slippage was dramatically reduced after this process and overall shifting seemed more smooth and direct. The CS F1 is always a bit brutal (charming character) but I believe there was a difference.

 

Would been great to see if Clutch Wear index changed, solenoid leakage or any engagement/selection threshold changed after you did it

 

Can’t help you there, but the beep and then movement in the transmission means something was going on.

 

Do you have a launch or thinkdiag or ap200

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