I was (wrongly) thinking that that was the inboard CV joints, but now see the emergency brake cable in your picture (so is outboard) -- has to be brake fluid (as, if the grease used to lube the CV joint was separating, the inboard joints would probably be trouble, too, being in the warmer location).
It's not gear oil because it doesn't smell. Maybe. This fluid is odorless. But the brake calipers are dry. This one is a puzzle. Image Unavailable, Please Login The transaxle side is dry as well: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Were your rear brake calipers just rebuilt, or were the pistons just pushed back in? That brake pad looks brand new.
Well, either can trouble . When the pistons are just pushed back in, the piston seal is now riding back on a bare piston surface location that has been out more exposed to the atmosphere (even if under the dust seal) for many years, and rebuilding is a significant process where things can go wrong (as is just disconnecting/reconnecting the brake lines). Don't have anything much more specific to add, but you just need to have a closer at things -- have you noticed if the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir has gone down significantly from where it was when the car was put back into use after the work?
I have not noticed the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir being down significantly. But will monitor from now on. Will dry everything up to pinpoint the source.
The brake calipers piston seals are dry: Image Unavailable, Please Login After drying everything up and going for a short drive drive, the shocks are leaking. Fluid seems to be coming from the top and running down the side dripping onto the drive flange and CV joint. I guess the shocks are filled with similar odorless hydraulic brake fluid. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Glad that you found the true source/problem -- that's not something that I can recall as being reported before. Were the shocks also rebuilt?
Yes. All four. The rear left seems to leak more than the rear right. The front are fine. This is most annoying because I don't have many miles after all was put back together.
Do you have a thread anywhere on this forum with additional pictures of your car? It must be amazing.
As of January 1, 2022 , the cost of the parts are: 1) For 930 332 034 00: $ 31.78 at partsgeek [Brand: Meyle]. 2) For 928 332 924 02: $ 11.95 at 928srus.
I must say I would not have thought of a shock leak. I guess a rebuild is only as good as the condition of the old core, I am curious how many miles on the shocks before the rebuild? Did the shocks leak before the rebuild?
45K mi They did not leak before the rebuild. Maybe I didn't need to rebuild. But it made sense since the other suspension components were new.
Couldn't find anything...but if the top side and interior are anything like the underside, you have yourself one awesome car.
Thank you, I have been thinking of doing some suspension bushings, and thought about shock rebuilds while having things apart. But it might be a case of leaving well enough alone.
Hey everyone -- this thread has been a wealth of knowledge for me over the past several days as my diff seals were shot and I was losing a lot of gear oil. A few members posted about having issues removing their CV shaft bolts -- I think a few people mentioned cutting the heads off the bolts/nuts, taking air chisels to the nut, etc. I thought I was going to have to do that. Let me tell you a story. Some previous mechanic put my passenger side CV shaft bolts on with an impact or something. The head of each hex bolt was twisted and damaged before I ever got to the car. I put a regular 8mm hex socket into it, on a 3ft extension, with a breaker bar on the end and a screwdriver in the brake rotor. Not a single one wanted to grab. The moment I started putting any torque to it, it started to rotate the socket inside of the bolt. I was putting a lot of torque to it here too, like everything I had on the end of a 2ft breaker bar. Uh oh. On one bolt, I thought, maybe an air impact will remove it really quickly and it will just pop off. I took off my breaker bar and put it on the end of the extension. Big mistake. Immediately rotates inside the bolt. Oops! So I take a break, do some internet research, and decide to combine 2 products, which you can google on your own, there are a bunch: 1. a hex bolt extractor set for removing damaged hex bolts. It looks like a normal hex headed socket but has a twist to it and is probably a bit bigger than a standard hex socket. AND 2. a 110v inductive bolt heater When they both arrive in the mail, I put the 8mm hex bolt extractor on the extension, with my breaker bar, and I heated up the nut on the end of that CV shaft bolt for about 45 seconds, until the coils on the inductive heater got red hot. I then turned the bolt with the breaker bar and it easily broke free! The extractor grabbed the bolt fine, and the heat from the inductive bolt heater allowed the bolt to break free without a mountain of torque on it. I followed the same procedure for the rest of the bolts, except I used a 3/8 wrench rather than a breaker bar to remove the bolts after putting heat to each of the nuts, because they were breaking free so easily. Potential nightmare turned into an easy job. Anyways, I highly recommend looking into these products before trying to cut or put a torch to anything. I was able to avoid damaging anything and now just need to source a hand full of bolts prior to getting things back together. I got a lot of value out of this thread so hopefully someone finds my story valuable
Good to hear the product review and glad it all came apart but I have cut off probably over 100 CV bolts, maybe 100's without so much as a scratch to the surrounding parts and it takes just a few seconds each.
You should try to put the car in gear to keep the axle unit from turning when removing bolts from the CV joints.
