Ferrari 308 with wide body kit, engine options

That is the argument for focusing on a wide powerband over a high peak hp. With the blower engine of the V12 there are usually 3 or 4 gears to pick from that will work...it certainly doesn't optimize getting the power to the ground but that a good excuse to just make sure there is extra power available is needed/wanted

 

you will not (easily) be mounting a 345 or 355 or 360 to a 308 trans.

The idea with a 348 or 355 would be buy the eng/trans and make it fit the 308 chassis.

 

285 fits in the stock fenders (its what I run), with a wide body kit I'd think 315 is the go.

 

As Mark pointed out, there's no easy way and I would not recommend trying to mate the 348/355/360 engine to the 308 gearbox. 308/328 engine to 360 gearbox is doable but not easy.

No the 348 'lump' is not a bolt in thing. Chassis will be to be modified for the mounts and stretched I think 4-6" for the axels to line up.

 

Kinda... The 4L NA has gobs of low rpm tq and of course high rpm. The gear ratios are just too short initially and while 5th is ok for cruise at say 45-50 for that low rpm since it's got the umph at highway speeds it's too short still. It needs a taller 1st and at least a 6th.

 

help me, is that 3150 cc/rev? I lent out my engine simulator key so I can't ruin it for you but I used a lysholm 2300 which is 2300cc/rev and it made 24psi on my QV which was 500hp/420ftlbs. If that thing is 3150cc/rev, well it could make more.

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well when are you guys going to start offering custom drop gears?

Yes, I don't use 1st very often on this or the last blower engine. My 1st is 24% higher than normal 1st but 2nd (also 24% higher) is still the right choice other then rolling through parking lots which would be a problem without 1st, 1st is about 10mph at idle, 2nd 14 or 15 so I end up clutching a lot whiteout using 1st. That is just life when you have buckets of torque I guess.

 

what kind of idiot makes there own cams?
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That is a fine blower and should get you around 30ish psi if that is what you want. Obviously you can spin it slower and make less boost but that will give you a bit less boost at low rpm than you would have with a smaller more optimally sized blower for the boost/hp your after. Now maybe limiting the low rpm boost is a good thing as it will encourage you to use more rpm. With the 2300cc blower geared to match the 7700 308 redline (so it was at 12k iirc) I saw about 24psi peak and about 12psi at idle, about 18psi 300-5500 then it would climb again as the engine torque and flow per rev wanted to drop but the blower was like, oh no, I insist you can just scale what I had to the bigger blower and it should be close. My point was though I found in normal driving there was so much low end torque I usually shifted around 2500-3000 rpm and in first gear no matter how gently I was with the throttle at 10psi the wheels would spin, I had to be pretty carefully in 1st gear. A bigger blower spinning slower will leak more and make less boost at low rpm so maybe a good thing?

 

There was a place that had a race kit, straight cut gears (so loud) that gave you a handful of optional ratios. stock is 27/30 (the middle idle does not affect the ratio) and I worked very hard to swap then and run 30/27. The kit is bolt on and makes the idler part of the ratio because its 2 gears. I think it was like $10k for the set, not sure it its still available.

 

I changed the valve spring, the valve will start to float at about 18psi with stock springs. I was also running gapless piston rings just because I thought they were good, not really anything to do with boost. the rest of the engine was stock other than the EFI replacing the CIS. Some have expressed concerns with the stock rods, carrillo makes a nice replacement set but I had stock rods and pistons.

Edit, oh and a better clutch of course

 

I made it and pinned it (iirc) to the OEM damper. it was about 20 years ago but I'm remembering cut a slight groove in the front of the damper pulley that the new blower pulley fit into to support its, like 3 driver pins into the hub of the OWM pulley and a longer bolt to hold it all on. I think it was a 10 rib belt? or 12. don't recall but the blower company (whipple) hade off the shelf blower pulleys so I made the drive to match those. The final setup was like 6.9" bottom and 3.5" top?...the blower was at 12k when the engine was at 7700. the 3.5 on top would try to slip and also walk off due to flex in the drive snout which I fixed with a support and the tensioner on the outside forcing the belt to at least 270 degrees of wrap on that 3/5" pulley. I had an air/water intercooler stuffed into the itake and the whole thin fit under the stock deck lid, with about 3mm clearance .

A 2v would need a pretty different setup. I built a manifold for 1 once, the blower had to be on top in a much more conventional looking design, or mounted over the rear cam cover maybe, I never tried that.

 

I don't think I have any pictures kicking around. But that's about what I made out of billet for the 2v I worked on. I'm not sure you could make an off. The shelf manifold work or probably would be more trouble than it's worth. A Ford mustang TB, I forget the year, it's a double bore oval thing fits the blower opening pretty well or you can use a more modern TB with throttle by wire.

The QV intakes I've done were all weldments, seemed easier.

 

Man, your builds are absolutely stunning. One of these days, hopefully soon, I'll be sending my car ('89 328) for you to work your magic. My dream is a NFF bullet proof, 100k mile, 350-400 WHP NA setup that I can drive the stink out of (pun intended).

 

Yes, that sounds right. When I did mine I was doing a rebuild and did change the gap, I'd forgotten all about that.

For the cooler I had the water/air in the intake and a pair of go-kart radiators in the front wheel wells. The pump turned on with rpm but also with boost and inlet air temp....again, it was 12psi at idle rpm so lots of opportunities to make heat.

Last, the oen head gaskets do not tolerate detonation. The flame ring cracks and bits can go flying...don't let it detonate or use different gaskets.

 

Forgive my ignorance but wouldn't it be easier and more economical (relatively speaking) to by a complete 355 engine, cradle, rear assembly/transmission/suspension and just fab it onto the 308 chassis?

 

About 2/3 that, I followed the chart from the ring maker. I used Total Seal, gap around. 020" or 0.5mm

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