I have had hundreds of those apart and back together. Never seen a damaged O ring and never required any special installation. I have to assume there was a disc alignment issue when the clutch was assembled.
Miroljub, as always you provide very insightful information and this is a good example so thank you and please keep it up. One point for thought. You need to get someone to produce a run of that guide stud kit for replacing the pumpkin. I bet there might even be a person on this board that could produce it for you (hint, hint).
The picture showing the damaged o-ring was posted here by one of the members which I thought was a great info (shared experience) and it made me think, for my work, better to be safe than to have to do it all over again just for one o-ring.
People do things incorrectly all the time with damage like that as a result. Doing the job properly is a far better investment in time than to take needless precautions that insure a reduction of problems when performing the job incorrectly. By your logic I should grind a dull point on my screw drivers so I'll do less damage when I poke myself in the eye.
I have not a hundred of these gear boxes, but quite a few without any damage of the orings. I believe the correct clutch alignment tool takes care of that.
You're probably using the correct alignment tool. Exactly what I was going to say but I haven't found the photo yet. While the Hill alignment tool is very nice it doesn't go far enough, literally.
It is possibly also a case of some supplier selling an O ring with too much section diameter because he was able to buy them for 8 cents each.
Entirely plausible. And sadly so. Here's the difference that I was referring to regarding the alignment tools. One engages all the way through the pumpkin splines will the other only aligns the clutch plates. Sorry, I don't recall where I found the photo. . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Gents, I have a post with issues I have been having with my 1999 355 F1 Spider. I have it scheduled for Service 13-June. The symptoms are: Slipping clutch then sudden grab Sometimes I hear the 4 beep with the Paddle Light flash. After driving for about 10 minutes, the symptoms go away but return the very next day. As I said, going in a few weeks but oil on the pressure plate would explain it, and I do now see some grit on the bottom of the bell housing (the vent, or inspection panel). Hopping it's some seals. Boaf http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/548055-transmission-wont-shift-all-f1.html?highlight=Boaf
Hi guys I lost all my clutch pressure and have stripped down my pumpkin to investigate, as fluid was dropping out the bottom. The throw out bearing is a Hill engineering unit so not original. After removing it I can see one of the seals has failed ( photo). Does anyone know if replacement seals are available for a hill engineering unit? I also wanted to replace the clutch flange seals whilst I am in there ( the two tiny seals and the large O ring) but I can’t get the flange off after removing the nuts. Does anyone have a method of safely pulling it off? Thanks for any advice! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You mean that split? That is supposed to be there. The seals might still be bad, but it's not because of the split.
Wow really? I’ve never seen inside a Hill engineering bearing before so assumed it looked as if it snapped. As you say the seals could still be bad ( the leak is definitely coming from inside the pumpkin) and will either all be changed if Hill sell spare seals, or I will replace the entire unit. Any tips on how to loosen the flange plate? It’s stuck pretty fast.
Use a rubber mallet and give it a couple good taps east and west..it will pop free. I really doubt your bearing was leaking..more than likely the shaft seal and o-ring. Don't for get about the 2 tiny little o-rings in behiend the flange that will also need to be replaced once you remove it.
I bought an HE seals kit last year but you should contact them (or check on their website) if they are still selling it (hey are located in Orpington, 01 689 837777). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well after gentle tapping (thanks tbakowsky) I eventually got the flange off ok, cleaned it up, replaced the two small o rings and one large O ring and bought a new Hill engineering bearing - which they told me was identical and a straight replacement for my old one. Only trouble is - I can only get the new bearing onto the flange about a half inch before it clicks and won’t move further. The units look identical when placed side to side (photo). I’ve tried several times but it just locks and won’t move all the way to the base of the flange. I am a bit perplexed to say the least! Would anyone have any experience of this, or suggestions? Image Unavailable, Please Login
You did not learn this lesson above? Place a 2x4 piece of wood over the bearing, firmly hit it with a hammer until it slides in.
Really? I was reluctant to do this as the parts are pretty expensive - do they usually need to be persuaded with a hammer? My old bearing can be pushed on with hand pressure.
I have never used more than hand pressure to install them. If it takes more than that there is an issue. The seals are easily damaged and if not installed perfectly will be destroyed if it is forced.
My Hill TB slid on by hand with little fuss. I did lube the shaft slightly and I mean slightly like wipe with wet microfiber cloth, so it was not dry slide.
I lubed the shaft with brake assembly grease and used hand pressure (squeeze). What do you mean by "it clicks"? Do you have some metal to metal contact when the bearing cylinder reaches the step at the larger diameter portion of the shaft? Also, it seems that you are using the original flange which has the spacing of the spring seats at 82 mm whereas the spacing of the spring pockets on the HE bearing is 86 mm. I had the same situation when I was installing the HE slave/bearing onto my original flange so I machined the spring seats on the flange out so that the springs can seat parallel to the shaft when installed. Before the mod, the springs were angled and were rubbing against the slave cylinder housing. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
