Early semi-auto antenna question

Bosch relays are easier to find and more hardened for application inside a car.

Um, most Bosch 75 ohm coil relays take 150 to 200mA.
Electronic supply relays take a tenth that.

I got smacked in the face with this when I tried to build a thermistor / op-amp thermostat for a car's AC control. Worked great on the bench, built up a printed circuit board for it.
Until I tried to get it to flip a Bosch relay. It overloaded the op-amp power supply.

And you need it to remain active while the antenna is moving -- a few seconds.

(Turns out, the ammonia vapor mechanical AC thermostats are available from GE industrial: They were originally designed for a water cooler. )

Um, TWO SPDTs makes for a double throw, no?

AND you doubled your coil current.


Don't get me wrong. If you can find pre-wired harnesses for this that use standard Bosch relays, that's probably a good solution.

One we didn't have available 20 years ago.
Which is the age of the post you're critiquing.

(Is that post older than you? )

On the other hand, trying to stuff two Bosch relays and their harness into "spare space" in a 3x8's center console could be a challenge, so a physically smaller configuration might be more convenient on one criteria.

 

BTW: Those Radio Shack relays fit conveniently into a Kodak 35mm film can.
(Which were also readily available 20 years ago. )

40 years ago, my co-driver added a delay wiper for his old sedan using radio shack relays and a 555 circuit, housed in film cans. Now, of course, most cars come with them standard.

Do we criticize the Founders for taking days to travel from Boston to Philadelphia when it's only a couple hour flight today?

 

Sorry. Didn't mean that to sound so harsh.
I just get frustrated when people don't consider things in context to the times they happened.

"Presentism: Evaluating past events by modern standards."

Like asking why the Model T didn't have a GPS.

 

Again none of the ones that I tested went above 0.14 Amps, that's 140mA

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Um. Let's go back to basic 101 electronics. Seems that the way that you might get it. Two SPDT switches when combined make a DPDT switch. Now listen close. When you take two SPDT relays it is the same thing. You just need to learn how to wire them up.



BTW when I said I would use 2 SPDT relays I never said that I would use them as a DPDT. I did say they CAN be used as DPDT.

And that brings me to this.....

No you don't. You only use one relay at a time. Plus the motor current.

If? IF? Did you not see the links right to them. There is no IF. And those are not the only ones on the market.

The relay and sockets were available way back when I was 16 (way back in 1991) and I had to rewire my first car 74 Super Beetle, since the original owner managed to catch the engine on fire. So doing the rewire I decided to put in power locks and windows. Guess what method Motor Trends and all the other mags had to say as well. Yeah the two SPDT relay. The sockets were also available back then.

In the video I have the whole harness plus connectors in a 2 1/2" W x 4 1/4" L x 2 1/4" deep inside electrical box. Now that's with most of the harness. Cutting the rest off the wires to length (BTW that harness is not even the one that is prewired that means this one is take up more room yet...) and not using those bulky connectors, it would only take up half the space.

Well i'm glad you brought up all those tib bit of trying to be snarky and just ironic. Since this whole time I have reference and mentioned that people have use this method since before you or I were even born. Yet you keep asserting, alluding to, that somehow this is new tech. At this point you are just trolling or can't find the google search bar. Neither are or look good.

In any case I uploaded a video showing TWO SPDT relays operating an Early semi-auto antenna. As per the whole reason for this thread.

The Title is "Horse, Meet Water". Notice how all total, for 2.5 Seconds, at most it reached .78 Amps (780 mA). Then back to 0. ZERO LOL.

 

Did you look at post 26?

 

Go watch the video and acknowledge my counterpoints first. I thoroughly debunked everyone of yours.

 

Yeah many manufactures went with a geared cable because the smooth round cable would develop flat spots that would make the antenna move sporadic or just stop altogether.

So flat spots/stops moving
vs
breaking.

Both have their flaws that will make it useless. So it doesn't really matter which one you go with.

 

hi, will one with the specs below work with the swith in the console as a simple replacement " without a diode " ?
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Functions:

• Noise less than 50DB, service life more than 50,000 times, top force greater than 4KG;
  
  
• It is waterproof, easy to install, with multiple optional mounting heads.
  
  
• The built-in imported miniature relay is equipped with a 3C-2V coaxial cable, and its length can be adjustable.
  
  
• Stainless steel antenna mast, five sections, AM/FM with good performance, working current less than 0.5A.
  

Specification:

• Model: BF-686
  
  
• Working voltage: 12V
  
  
• Voltage range: 10V-14V
  
  
• Working current: 0.7±0. 2A
  
  
• Antenna extension length: about 750mm
  
  
• Protection bottom plate: about 305mm
  
  
• Cable length: about 1400mm
  
  
• Installation angle: 0-30°
  
  
• Working current: <0.5A
  

Cable connection method (3-wire):

• The red wire is connected to the positive pole of the power supply, and the black wire is grounded.
  
  
• There are two ways to connect the green line. It can be connected directly to the positive pole of the power supply, and then the antenna rises and falls when the power is turned off. Or it can be connected to an external control cable and the antenna can be lifted freely.
  

 

First off the information here is wrong. "It can be connected directly to the positive pole of the power supply, and then the antenna rises and falls when the power is turned off." If you connect the green wire directly to the power supply it will just say up all the time and eventually drain the battery.

What it should say is to "connect the green line to an ignition switch controlled source". In other words connect it to the same power out as the other accessories that turn on only when the key is turned on. Like the radio, windshield wipers, power windows, ect.

To answer the question. If your switch send power for up and power for down then the answer is NO. You will need the diode or a set of relays.

 

I just updated my antenna. Details here:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/replacement-antenna.678860/