I think the door handles have been incorrectly assembled on my car as there isn’t a nut on top of the lever block the pulls the cable. I have started to dismantle them, but I can’t work out how to unscrew the handle post from the aforementioned lever block. The block won’t rotate because it hits the inside of the door and the handle obviously won’t rotate either. What am I missing? Paul
Hi Alberto, Yes, I can open the doors, although the driver’s door needs a good pull to open it. The problem with the passenger door is that the ferrule that the handle is supposed to rotate in has seized on the handle shaft and therefore rotates within the door and paint. Paul
Hello Paul, Try some penetrant (1 drop). That is one pesky mechanism in the door. Don't stretch the cable... Alberto
I’ve tried some penetrating oil on the ferule, but it isn’t shifting and I don’t want to risk damaging the paint, so it looks like I will need to get it out. The brass/bronze cam can’t unscrew from the rod because it contacts the inside of the door skin. Suggestions? Paul Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Paul, What is this threaded object circled in green? Image Unavailable, Please Login Are you able to remove it? Is it maybe much further behind the cam than it looks in the picture? If either of the above are true, I would start by finding some "cup" that can fit up under the screw and cam (so that cam is *completely" in the cup), and then try filling the cup with rust remover (I use the stuff from Eastwood, but there must be equivalent stuff in the UK), and let it soak for 1-2 hours. Every 15-mins-or-so, remove the cup, and tap lightly on the cam with a hammer, and then put the cup back. If after this treatment, the assembly does not look *completely* rust free, you might want to try one additional repeat of the procedure; don't do the procedure more than twice, as some rust removers will eat clean metal if you give them long enough; overnight with the Eastwood stuff is ok, but multiple days of soaking will destroy threads. You want to keep soaking for at least an hour-or-so after the assembly looks rust-free; the idea is to try and get the rust remover to work into the threads, and weaken the rust in there. After all the above, clean all the rust remover off; first with just water, or spirits of some sort, and then liberally clean it down with that penetrating oil. Let the oil soak in, tap lightly; repeat every 15mins; 3-4 times. If the cam won't start to move after all the above, then you starting to look at having to heat the assembly; with all the dangers that this implies... Fingers crossed for you, Alex
Hi Alex, The thread that you have highlighted is the end of the bolt that fastens the window from to the door. To be clear, it isn’t the cam that is seized onto the thread, but the ferule that sits in the hole in the top of the door that the handle rotates in. The cam rotates freely, but the door skin prevents the cam from doing a full rotation and therefore won’t unscrew.
Looks like the door handle cam assembly is missing parts, assembled incorrectly and likely screwed up more in that process.
I have taken the nut off the bottom, but the nut that should be on top of the cam is missing. What else do you think is missing Timo?
Well, there should be another jamb nut (& internal tooth lock washer) on top of the cam, another lock washer between it and the bottom jamb nut ... The cam should slide off, but may need some prying or a small puller. I have another Daytona scheduled to come in for a few minor services, including (quite common) loose/ill-aligned outside door handle adjustments. I believe the most common causes for these handles becoming loose/ill-aligned are poor initial installation alignment/tightening amplified by user operating errors. The "cable stretch", per se, as suggested by Alberto, shouldn't be a problem. Not enough force available in this design to cause it. Something else will break or become loose long before it.
The cam appears to rotate freely on the thread and I had assumed that as the top nut and washer is missing, the cam is threaded internally. I need to take a closer look and see what is actually rotating. I’m now wondering if rather than the cam rotating on the shaft, the cam and shaft is actually rotating in the handle. Thank you Timo.
I have now double-checked and the cam is threaded onto the shaft, so it can’t simply pull off unfortunately. I’m a bit stumped. The only possibility seems to be to remove the window, frame and trim to allow the handle to rotate 360° and unscrew from the cam. That seems like a huge amount of work and opportunity for problems, just to free the ferule on the handle shaft.
Welcome to the world of hack repairs/restorations and efforts required to get them sorted, … …, but if it’s any consolation, my 4+ decades of experience and observations has lead me to believe the vast majority of vintage cars, including Daytonas and other Ferraris (even those with so-called Platinum level restorations), have plenty of them, so don’t take it personally. I’ve recently spent insane amount of efforts and time sorting out myriad of problems caused by previously performed (hack ?) work on a electro-vacuum controlled 4-speed transaxle in a prewar front wheel drive car and some of discovery are best to describe as “WTF were they thinking !?!”. And most of the previous “work” had been performed by a shop supposedly experienced and expert on this type of technology/vehicles. I was provided copies of their invoices so I could try to understand their mentality but couldn’t make heads or tails out of most it.
??? Unlike some, I've never had a (desperate ?) need to try and market myself in online forums in search of employment/job opportunities. I’ve always had a relatively long waiting list and regularly decline taking on jobs from potential new clients.
I not see it so I see it more as a post how difficult it is to get things right fixed what only those, doing this, know. most who have the money to let things fixed only pay without knowing how much work it is behind to get things fixed
And yet you chastized TTR for purportedly being a "Petty, self appointed moderator". Who appointed you? Your lack of self-awareness, holding grudges, and tendency to escalate your rhetoric is why you have a ban history, it has little to do with your opposition to certain parties or their claims. Permanent thread ban.
Here WE are making reasonable suggestions on how to repair an item, and it is considered unworthy? Spam, no less... Please go back to being a normal citizen, not on a rampage with others. Really, I mean it. Apart from the fact that I do not know you, you seem a reasonable, pleasant fellow. Unfortunately, you have anger management issues. Regards, Alberto
For the time being, I have put it all back together and I'll endeavour to open the offending (passenger) door from the inside as much as possible until I can get the matter properly fixed. Thank you for the input. Paul
