I think both + go to relays that control solenoids. Actually I will connect my OEM switch between the control unit (that sending currents) and the box were all tank compressor and valves are installed.
I think the LED backlighting is going to cause issues. If the LED is in the circuit normally, the light won't work (if you set up the wiring like this).... Image Unavailable, Please Login If you reversed the LED, it should work (if you add an earth circuit): Image Unavailable, Please Login I haven't opened up one of these switches to see if the LED is easily reversible? Maybe ask one of the sticky switch experts?
Thanks a lot for your help, but it seems too complicated for me. I guess I need to seek a local car electrician to help me. Last system I built, I used a windows switch from a Civic from the 80s and it was much more simple than that. I'm lost here.
I tried the switch with a fob battery and some wires just to see. I only managed to light the switch and, while moving the switch UP (or DN, don't remember) it cuts the 10v that the switch is continuously sending to one pin. As is,I'm afraid this switch is useless for my need. Is there any other momentary switch that could be more appropriate for my use? Window control one seems to work exactly the same.
It would be easy if it wasn't for that LED. If you want OEM style then there are no F355 switches which would be suitable. The LED would have to be removed or resoldered "back to front" (if that is possible): https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/toggle-switch-repair.670311/
Well... I guess I'll have to use the switch from the kit then. Doesn't look as good, but at least it could be fitted where I want: (not my car) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Put the switch somewhere it can't be seen, but can be easily accessed, like under the edge of the dash.
I went to see my electrician and you were spot on about the solution. He did exactly what you said: sold the led the other way and adding a small relay to invert polarity. Now, I need to change the logo for the F50 lift one...
Not sure why you’d want to reverse the polarity with relays. Is the system triggered with an earth or a voltage?
This is to get this switch light on with the others, I have to pick-up the + from another switch and send it thru the relay that will change it to earth and go to pin 3 on the switch. Last wire from relay goes to earth. Here is a pic of the relay: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Not sure I completely understand. I think I'd need a diagram for this. I understand that you want your switch light to come on with your exterior lights, but I'm not sure how you're going to isolate your switch internal light circuits from your switch internal switch contacts (using a standard Ferrari switch).
Sorry, as you might have noticed, I'm not at top level regarding electrical internals So I've no idea how this relay is inside. All I know is that the guy soldered the led other side and gave me this small relay and the way to connect everything. Relay receive + for light from another switch of the console. One wire goes out the relay to earth, another wire out of relay is connected to the pin 3 of the switch. Then switch receive + (from ignition key contact) on pin 4 and earth on pin 5. Then, when switch is activated it is sending + on pin 1 or 2. This is pretty much the same diagram you posted before except one wire from relay: Image Unavailable, Please Login
So I guess something like this... Image Unavailable, Please Login I'm just wondering what circuit is inside the lift controller (on the DOWN pin). With the ignition on, you have ignition volts going through the LED, through the un-pushed "down" switch straight to the Lift ECU. Is the current flowing through the LED small enough NOT to activate the down signal (with the light relay NOT activated). Follow the pink line.... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, that's what he's thinking. By the way, I made a mistake in the previous diagram. There is no need of earth at pin 5. Here is the correct one: Image Unavailable, Please Login I'm going to start the installation of my lift kit, and then, I will do the install of this switch with the guy to be sure everything is as it's supposed to be.
Possibly. Some relays do have earths on unsued terminals. Perhaps it's part of the fault diagnostics for more complicated systems, but if it's not mentioned in the installation guide, then no need to worry.
Image Unavailable, Please Login I did all mine in blue including all switches and heater controls In this pic the heater was not done yet I just had a drivers window switch fail but I got over 10 years out of it. Can not find my thread because I think it’s in the other ferrari forum Need to figure out again so I’m searching now for the details of what I did
I just unsoldered and soldered in new blue led Also the dimmer switch works but not as good because they dim quicker and shut off about half or so This is ok though if like me you do them all as they are relative to each other
If you buy the led bulbs for the dash from ‘super bright led” they come with resistors and brackets and are plug and play
This is what the switches look like and polarity You must buy the 12v led lights though Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login the red is pos and the black negative
In this next pic it shows the correct orientation for one of the window switches The led is at the top of the switch and if it is you would mount the led with the missing bottom left corner as shown below Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login this screen shot shows the bottom left triangle of the led smd needs to go as shown Top from picture above would be mounted to top of the window switch
