I even went to the mechanic down the road from them, that has worked on the car, basicially said stay away from it. Have you seen the 2 avaliable at YTG?
Thanks GERRA456gt, yes, I've seen them. They definitely look the ones to go for. Not overly convinced on Rosso Fiorano (can look brown in some light) or silver though but the specs look bloody good. They are approaching F430 F1 money, so I'm buggered if I know.... Spent the last two nights looking at F1 to manual conversion videos!
My experience is less scientific, working on the car with the coating is much better Paranoid? Wasn't referring to you
I think wrxmike around here can work his magic with the ECUs and turn them into manual ECUs. I have a factory manual kit pulled from an LHD 360, and I can be convinced to part ways with it.
This kit here: https://gatedconversion.com/ is roughly AUD $25k delivered. Comes with the plug-in so you don't need to flash or change the ECU. It's completely reversible and doesn't need the gearbox out or the clutch touched (unless it's shagged and then you're better off changing it anyway). Also you can opt to lose the e-diff and lose the F1 pump altogether. Can be done at home in theory. Trickiest bit appears to be tuning the gear linkage cables, I didn't realise that the gearboxes on the F1 and manual are the same.
$190 isn't exactly cheap for an imported 360. Personally I wouldn't be too concerned about it being an import, but rather more where it was imported from.... UK cars really do have a hard life.. I was there recently and even after 3 days my rental car looked like it had been pulled out of a swamp. Mind you I drove through a few.
The engine bay shots are a little bit of a worry. Fair bit of (what appears to be) errant oil all over the place. Got me F*cked why people don't look after their cars a little better. They're not exactly that hard to maintain.... Just look after them, keep up with the maintenance and when something breaks - fix it immediately.
There is someone up here working on a 430 conversion to manual, they were confident they could it, but haven't heard the result yet...
Sometimes you don't know who to trust. The dealer quoted me $9k for a clutch replacement, including the flywheel, ring gear, thrust bearing and a bit of other fluff, which I thought, hmmm ok. An independent also quoted me $9k without the flywheel, thrust bearing and ring gear. I didn't tell him I'd already got a quote from the dealer, and he was actively rubbishing the dealer for overcharging. I've played dumb and asked him how he came up with the $9k figure. He said the clutch alone is $5k which we all know is BS.
Had a look at the dealer pricing - $7390 worth of parts and 8 hours of labour at about $200ish/hour. I guess a fair price is 8-12 hours of labour plus parts? Now, does it really need a new flywheel, ring gear, thrust bearing and clutch sensor?
I got 40’000 ish km out of the last clutch in an F1 car and I don’t mind using Auto when I’m holding a coffee so that puts the kybosh on all that clutch conspiracy theory nonsense, just drive the heck out of them [emoji12]
I can tell you precisely what the cost of a 355 clutch replacement is, I wouldn't think a 360 would be too different.. Thrust Bearing/Slave, Flywheel, Clutch Pressure Plate, Clutch, full set of bearings and seals (and I mean complete) - AUD $4,500 Labour to fit all of the above - $1592 That's $6k give or take. Parts sourced myself (All OEM) and the work was carried out by an Authorised Ferrari Dealer (Barbagallos in WA).
Does it really need it? Maybe not.. But it's this kind of thinking that slowly degrades great cars into ****boxes over time. When it's all apart, get it done...
I mean why wouldn't you replace bearings after you've gone to the trouble of pulling the clutch out... They're like $80. Most people think a clutch is just the friction material.. The mating surfaces are equally as important. I guess you could get them resurfaced if you really wanted to save a few bucks.
I take your point and would also replace the bearing, but according to this a bearing is over $1209 Image Unavailable, Please Login
The big thing here IMO is hopefully you’re not buying OEM rubbish. Get anything you can from Hill Engineering or similar. Clutch, clutch release bearing etc. all light years ahead of OEM in quality. And probably cheaper.
Yeah more or less true... "OEM" is a very rough approximate on some of these cars.. The clutch plates for example - Valeo.... The brakes - Brembo.... But yes I know what you mean. I went with Hill Engineering stuff wherever I could. Water pump, Clutch Release Bearing + Flange, Timing Belt Bearings, tensioners - all that.. Things like Radiators you're also better off going after market - full metal as opposed to the half metal/half plastic things they come with. It's a fine line. I'm totally OK with replacing "consumable" stuff with better made replacements from the likes of Hill Engineering, but I'm a really not down with the non consumable items. I like to get things as close to OEM as I can. But in the case of the 355 I'm Ok with aftermarket exhaust... The OE setup is rather ****e, and I'm not talking about just the sound. Somebody really dropped the ball there.
That's the throwout bearing/clutch master cylinder. Calling it a "bearing" is a bit of a stretch.... (I guess it does have a bearing in it)... I was really talking about all the other bearings. There's quite a few in there, and they're not expensive. But I'd still replace the slave cyl, especially if it's the original one. As I mentioned I did my entire clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, slave cyl, and every single conceivable bearing and seal along the way for $6k, including labour.... That receipt above strangely doesn't even show any additional bearings or seals... No idea why you wouldn't replace them whilst you were in there. It's decisions like this that when combined together separate the bad cars from the good ones. In isolation, no big deal but when you do this every time a decision comes up, you'll end up with a POS. A good example is doing things like the water pump and engine main seals during engine outs. Not "needed" for sure, but good luck if you ever blow out a rear seal or your water pump goes... It's best to stay on top of it. Nothing has actually gone wrong at all with my car, but I've still spent a bunch of it to ensure it's as good as it can be... When you don't do that, then you end up with a 30 year car that looks 30 years old - and when you see it along side one that's been lovingly cared for and properly maintained, the differences are like night and day. Oh and the prices of these cars reflect that.
Yep I had all the main seals done this time around, I’m learning [emoji849] Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
