ThinkDiag + 2000 360 + CS ECU

I tried to change the thread title to reflect "CS TCU", but I'm unable to edit, so... sorry about that.

Update:
Non-360 TCU flashed to CS spec and installed.
Both ECUs have been flashed to go along with the TCU.
Car was changing into 3rd gear and then free revving.
Performed re-learn for gear box. So far, so good!
Clutch was slipping a bit... played with PIS to the point where it got down to 3.2. We all agree that's the lowest setting we've seen, but that's where it's at. No car I've ever owned has been "normal" or "as expected", so this is about right for me.
I now get a CEL for P1200 on the right bank. That's new. Suspected MAF issues, so swapping both out and will see how that goes.
Car now hunts for idle a bit at startup. I assume that's part of the P1200.

I was half tempted to go back to stock everything.. but I'm gonna stick this out a bit longer. I'll update with the next bit of news. Car does drive better, so that's a plus. I'm stoked because it gives me more time to save up for a manual swap. I didn't want to have to rush it. I'm hoping to do it along with the next clutch swap.

 

Update, since I can't edit my OP:

My experience so far with having the TCU and ECU tuned:

First, the positives:
1. The guys I'm dealing with (Sam, Trev360, Eric, etc) have been great. Very knowledgeable. Very patient with my non-knowledge on the subjects LOL
2. The car downshifts GREAT in Sport mode.
3. The car upshifts slightly better in Sport mode.
4. Shifts in Auto and normal mode seem to be the same, more or less, other than holding RPM a bit more in between up shifts, in Auto.
Over all, I'm happy with the TCU.
5. No noticeable performance changes with the ECU. Not a big deal as I only had it done to match the TCU. I'm not looking for more performance.

Negatives:
*Problems, with the car, the parts, and the process - not the people helping.
On the bright side: I've been assured that I'm probably the only one to ever have these problems. In order of appearance:
1. Car indicated going into 3rd, but car not in gear and free revving.
2. Sam (the guy helping me tune the car) recommended a re-learn by the TCU. Verified by Eric and I think a member with the screen name with "flash" in it (sorry, I'm dealing with many people on multiple projects, so it's hard to remember everyone to give them credit ) So far so good. Possibly resolved.
3. Car not wanting to start. I turn the key and nothing. Not immobilizer, as my car turns over without a start. This happens to me about 50% of the time I try to start the car. After about 3-5 tries, it usually fires. I'm concerned about being stranded. I'm told the TCU may not be telling the ECU that it's ready. I'll be swapping in my original TCU and will be dealing with a car that runs kinda crappy to see if the start up issue goes away.
4. Rough start. The car hunts for idle and sounds pretty rough. It clears up once the car is warmed up. no known fix but may be related to:
5. CEL for p1200 right bank. Multiple attempts to clear. I'm told the MAF is bad. Weird that it has been fine the entire time I've owned the car. Code would change right bank, left bank, or both. Ordered two MAFs. Once came in and placed on right bank. So far no CEL for that one, but still getting CEL for Left Bank. Plan is to swap them and see if the code changes from left to right.

That's where I'm at so far. At this point I'm thinking to reflash my ECU back to stock and put my old TCU in, then just let Ferrari deal with my settings when I do the clutch swap. I only started all this so I could set up my own clutch settings once I do the clutch. Not sure it's worth it. I'm about $4500 USD into this process and not really seeing a benefit.

Or, just swap in a manual shifter and be DONE with all of this nonsense.

As of now, I would not recommend this process to anyone who doesn't have the time and money to deal with this entire process.

 

Meh. I have nothing but problems EVERY time I try to modify a car. It's a curse. I will 100% of the time be the ONE guy that has the 1:1,000,000 thing happen. Every time LOL. I've learned to work with and plan for it, also. I know that sounds dramatic, but I have over 20 years of proof haha.
Anyway, I know many people have gone through this with zero issues, which is why I'm not blaming anyone for anything. It's just bad luck that I'm just about tired of dealing with.
Before all this happened, the car drove great. The transmission lurched a bit from a stop, when pulling out of parking spaces, etc but I could live with it. All these problems started as soon as I swapped computers.
The re-learn has been done. It was overlooked but eventually done, which is why I mention it being resolved, of course. That was actually the least of my concerns.
Now the computer is telling me, we think, that I need new MAF sensor. Why? I don't know.. but there's another $300+ added to the running total.
All the people I have talked to came highly recommended. All are on the same page, I just got the info in different bits and not always in order.

As for why the car idles poorly on start up? No idea.
Why, after being tuned, do I now get a host of p1200s? No idea.
Why does the key turn to a dead car 3-5 times before finally cranking? No idea. But.. I did put the original TCU in and it's fired up all 6 times since, without fail.

My second MAF comes in soon. If I still get p1200s, still idles rough on startup, and I can't figure out the start up issue, I'm going to have 360Trevor flash my car back to stock and put the original TCU back in, then sell everything at a loss. I'm not happy that I spent $4500 to go right back to where I started, but sometimes we have to learn expensive lessons LOL. I'm beyond frustrated by all the mystery of why the car sucks all of a sudden.
Yes. I should have left it all alone.

Wish me luck!

 

All that is exactly what's happened. I'm dealing with 24yo electronics, so....
I swapped one MAF and fixed one code. I should be good when and if the other shows up.

I can PM you how I should have done things, if you want.
I couldn't find anyone who made a thread on this site with a step-by-step how-to, but I plan on making one.

 

Update:
There is SO much info I was unaware of in regards to this stuff, but hopefully it will all settle out at the end. Here's where I'm at after yesterday:

1. New MAF installed on right bank. CEL gone and CEL for left. Swapped MAFs and the code went from left to right. It's explained to me that the reflashes need MAF sensor that are in tip-top condition. I am waiting on the second one, shipping has been delayed of course. The new MAF *should* fix the CEL issue.
2. OEM TCU put back into place. Car fires up before and after "OK" message appears (I wait until it goes away, but wanted to test it). I'm told that the CS tune on the TCU may require higher F1 pump pressures to allow start up, so I'm going to swap the CS TCU back in and see if the car starts consistently after waiting for the pump to stop priming. If it's an issue of a weak pump, then it'll be another $1200 plus fluids for the pump and accumulator. Yay LOL. If I can get away with letting the pump prime a bit longer instead, then I'm good with that.

As for the confusion and missed information during this entire process, I think we've narrowed it down to a few things: First, I was getting advice from multiple sources. That's actually pretty awesome as it means this group is more than willing to help a noob. The downside is that each of them probably assumed I knew more to begin with than I did LOL. That resulted in getting partial info in varying order, so it added to the confusion a bit. I also missed some of the information because it was spread out over two threads and three PMs. Second, some people refer to others by screen name and other with actual names. So, while I'm talking to 3-4 different people, it seemed like 6-8. All that is the reason I plan to do a single write up, once this is done. Maybe it will help the next person by providing a "road map" of what to expect and how to go about things. That would have helped TONS when I was researching all of this. Fingers crossed.

To be continued....

 

Update:

So... I put the CS TCU back in. I let the F1 pump finish priming and the tried to start the car. Success. It turns out the theory of the CS ROM needing a higher pump pressure to start is correct. It worked three times in a row. So... I just have to be more patient when I want to start the car. It looks like about $2k in parts if I want to replace the pump and accumulator. Maybe one day, but for now I can wait.
The car still idles horribly on cold start and I still have a CEL for one of the MAF sensors. The second one should be in this weekend, so I'll report back afterward.

 

No worries! First, I'll say that I don't know what an HFM is LoL. Second, the car ran perfectly before the flash, so it's not a mechanical fault.
I swapped brand new, OEM MAF sensors to get rid of all of my CELs which so far has worked. I only have idle issues on cold start. Once it's in closed loop, it seems to do better.
I believe the car is running quite a bit rich in cold start/open loop.
Hope you're feeling better! Colds, flues, and COVID seem to be a lot more prevalent these days.