Motor mounts compressed to under 1mm of clearance after only 8 months/6K miles… | FerrariChat

Motor mounts compressed to under 1mm of clearance after only 8 months/6K miles…

Discussion in '360/430' started by Jaymac, Apr 1, 2024.

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  1. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    Dec 18, 2020
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    Jeremy McCurdy
    …but why?
    I replaced my ‘03 360’s motor mounts last year due to what I felt were excessive vibrations in the cabin.
    That was 8 months / and 6,000 miles ago. The cabin vibrations have recently returned. I can also see the exhaust tips on the drivers side vibrating much more than the passengers side. I checked them today, and the drivers side mount has less than 1mm clearance on the back side, and only just 2mm on the front. The passengers side has just over 2mm on the front, and just under 2mm on the back side. I’ll include pictures.

    What could cause mounts to collapse down this far so quickly? Everything was torqued correctly, but I can’t remember if I torqued once the engine and car were fully settled on the ground, but I *believe* I did.

    They were new OEM mounts from a forum supporter.

    What gives?
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  2. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    Brian Crall
    Torque of fasteners does not effect that.

    That gap was never meant to be a wear indicator.

    Are they cracked? Is there any issue of them performing their job?

    Ferrari flat crank motors as well as any flat crank V8 is famous for vibrations. Its why nearly no one uses a flat crank in a V8.
     
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  3. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    I can’t see any cracks. My basis for concern is that the cabin vibrations have returned. They dissipated when I first replaced them last July, but have since recently returned. That’s the only connection I can make. The trans bushing was also replaced with the 430 unit 2 years ago.
     
  4. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    Vibrating Ferrari V8 engines are a no extra charge feature.

    Removing the central bolt and looking from the bottom for cracks in the rubber is the only way to determine engine mount condition.
     
  5. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    :D
     
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  6. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    I had assumed that once the rubber blocks contacted the base plates, they would transmit extra vibrations through the chassis, and therefore, cabin.
     
  7. 360+Volt=Prius

    360+Volt=Prius Formula 3
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    How is the transaxle bushing?
     
  8. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    Good. I replaced it in early 22
     
  9. ItalGerBrit

    ItalGerBrit Formula Junior

    Mar 15, 2016
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    S La
    Let us know what might be causing the vibration when you find it. Maybe it is "normal" vibration and you just notice it more than others? Maybe ride in another 360 for comparison?

    Where did you get the gap measurement tool? I like that thing.
     
  10. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    At this point I don’t think I’ll dig any further, based on Brian’s input. I was basing it on internal cabin vibrations, which led me to replace them in the first place (on top of the age of the previous replacement, roughly 10 years). The vibrations quelled immediately upon the last replacement. Now they’re back, seemingly out of the blue. if anyone has any ideas, I’d gladly check!
     
  11. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
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    Maybe try a throttle body relearn

    Disconnect battery .. wait 20 30 mins

    Start car and let it idle without touching the gas or turning on any electrically equipment until it gets warm then wait 10 mins running without touch a thing ..lights off etc

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
    Jaymac likes this.
  12. Sj_engr

    Sj_engr Formula 3

    Sep 15, 2020
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    I think the main enemy is heat but looks like you have stock headers.
     
  13. collegeboy

    collegeboy Formula 3
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    Looks like Tubi headers to me.
     
  14. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    I had actually considered doing an ECU/TB reset, just to see. Easy enough and worth a shot.
    I didn’t think that would’ve been necessary at this time, because I just got the 360Trev tune about 4 months and 2,000 miles ago, which concluded with an ECU reset. There were no new vibrations present after the tune. They didn’t begin to present themselves until the last week or two. I did install new coils a month or two ago without doing a reset or tb relearn. I did them as part of the prerequisites Trev likes to have done when installing a tune: plugs, MAF’s, coils, primary 02’s. The coils were the only thing that didn’t arrive before the tune was installed. Perhaps not doing a relearn after the coils were installed affected the ECU’s? Either way, easy enough to do.
     
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  15. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    Collegeboy is correct; Tubi heat-shielded headers, 200 cell sport cats, and Capristo Twin Sound cat-back. I always leave the engine lid open whenever I get home from a drive to dissipate heat, but not so much when parking out in public, for many obvious reasons.
     
  16. Tackleberry

    Tackleberry Formula Junior
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    Regardless of what Headers you have - stock or aftermarket - you still have an intense heat source right above a rubber based component, which is under a lot of stress. Inevitably the Mounts will succumb to that continual heat and sag.
    When I replaced my Mounts I made up some Heat Shields to at least afford some sort of barrier.
    After a couple of years use they seem to be holding out just fine, so the Shields are doing their thing.

    There is enough thread of the main bolt sticking past the nut to allow the fitment of the shield, a washer, and slim locking nut.

    Not the best pic, but this will give you an idea.........

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  17. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    Smart. Very nice. Did you ever start a thread on making it? Which materials, etc?
     
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  18. Tackleberry

    Tackleberry Formula Junior
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    Thank you.
    No I didn't ! To be honest I did them as an experiment - so they were only ever prototypes - to prove a theory. Of course at that stage never bothered with keeping any sort of record as they were completely hand made.
    The intention being if they did do their job - which clearly they have - I would them make some better quality ones and possibly sell them as a kit.

    I'll be checking them soon when I do my annual pre-season jobs, and if all looks good I'll revisit and look at a productionized version.
     
    Jaymac likes this.
  19. anotherred360

    anotherred360 Formula Junior

    Jan 10, 2015
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    The heat shield is a great idea given this appears to be creep-related settlement where high temps are a factor. I'm going to fab one up too.
     
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  20. windsock

    windsock Formula 3
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    Cam timing has a huge affect on idle quality. Were the cams timed, timed properly at the last service? If you have cam timing variations between banks you will never get it to idle as smooth as possible.
     
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  21. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

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    Based on what you just said .. definitely try it

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
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  22. Extreme1

    Extreme1 Formula 3

    Jun 27, 2017
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    Can you post a link for the heat shielding pls.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  23. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    Can you post a link, or at least share the name of the heat shielding product you used? It looks like the same stuff used in the OEM 430 heat shielding I installed over the trans bushing when I replaced it.
     
  24. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    Agreed, and I’ve thought about that possibility too. The cams were timed at the second to last belt service, but this last belt service I did myself as a lock-and-swap. That was last May. The vibrations did not present themselves any more after the belts. It was running as nice and smoothly as before. The vibrations improved with the mount replacement in the July following, and have started to creep back over the last few weeks. I’ve often considered inquiring to local Indy’s about having the cams timed, but it’s pretty far down on my list. I pulled data from the Autel 2 months ago after seeing someone else’s post about cam timing. I’m the first to admit I’m out of my depth on this subject matter, but the figures I got were:
    “Camshaft and engine fase angle” were 650.688*C on one bank, and 651.594*C on the other bank.
    “Cross inlet/exhaust cross value” was 32*F for both banks.
    “Camshaft Cross Factor” was 0 for both.
    Again, I have little to no understanding of what these numbers translate to, expect for that I believe the fase angles are both low?
     
  25. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula Junior
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    I’ll be trying that on Friday as soon as I’m done with work for the week!
     

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