F12 Berlinetta starting problem

Wow! $500 just to simply replace the battery?

 

Well worth it after doing it myself.

 

Just take the airbox off. It takes a few minutes to take the airbox out, and it makes taking the battery out so much easier. Takes less than an hour total. Just keep in mind it's a very heavy battery, and it's pretty low down probably at the level of your lower thigh if you're standing next to it. You need to lift it with the fender between you and the battery, and clear the fender in one motion. That was probably the toughest part. It's not hard, but if you got a bad back, it probably ain't worth it.
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Caution, you can easily crack a windscreen removing the scuttle panel, which is required, very easily.

Be very careful, taking the scuttle trim off the windscreen, it clips in like a zip lock bag (once screws removed) good idea to put some lubricant spray along the seem at the base of the windscreen the night before, pry it out slowly starting at the end of each panel from the middle of the windscreen, using only your fingers….it does come out, gently, don’t force in any other direction other than up.

After replacing the battery, refitting is the reverse, but again good idea to run some grease or lubricant along the tongue on the scuttle trim, DO NOT EVER tap or bang the trim back in against the windscreen Squeeze it in gently….follow these steps it’s fine, don’t and it can cost you upto 5k plus a 3 month wait for a new windscreen….

Easy job. Just take your time

Hope this helps




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I don't understand your directions. You say it clips in but a zip lock has no clips. Some are zippers and some you press both sides together. Neither seems to apply here. Would be awesome if someone could post a picture of the back of the panel when removed. It was so tight against the windshield for me that my assumption was some type of sealant was in place. If this panel is easily removed without damage and replaced sitting just as tight it would make the job DIY.

 

wanted to update been well over 1 year with antigravity and no issues. no more lazy hot starts.

 

Where'd you get the battery? I just got back from yearly service I was "told" my battery is still good. Only had the F12 six months they confirmed to me the car (it's a 2017) does NOT have the original battery in it however does not need replacement. When the day comes I'll probably go with the battery you went with. I get the occasional warm start "lazy" crank but she always fires up.

 

Chatting with a well known independent in the UK who used to use Varta batteries and has recently switched to Duracell. This is because, in his opinion, Varta have started using cheaper materials (he thinks they weigh a lot less) and the batteries are less heat resistant, which might be OK for other vehicles, but is the issue in the F12. Just had mine done, previous (OEM) battery lasted 24 months and about 14,000 miles but with a battery killing summer in the UK and EU led to it dying in the cold this winter. I'll report back on lazy starts once it warms up in the uk.

 

it's the lithium battery from Antigravity.

 

I went to their website this was the only battery that came up as a match. This is it? 60 or 80aH?

https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/automotive/ag-h8-rs/

 

80ah with bluetooth tracker it's nice to see what charge your battery is at with an app
need to also change to ctek lithium battery tender

 

I have this same issue on my newly acquired 2013 F12 with 13k miles. According to the service records, the previous owners had this issue as well. Is adding an extra ground cable the “best” solution so far?

 

I have an F12, 2013; I bought it 4 years ago and put 12,000 miles.
About 6000 miles ago, the so-called battery problem started.
I did everything in three different Ferrari services, and my very knowledgeable car mechanic exploited everything. Now, with the Antigravity battery, I still have some problems starting a hot engine, not always, but often.
I have the tracker app for that battery, and it behaves very strangely.
It could lose the charge while driving, but it's always charging when idle.
Sometimes, it goes from 67% down to 23% but starts immediately.
So total chaos.
So, my mechanic made an interesting suggestion: move the battery to the TRUNK!
I have a 458 2015 with 60,000 miles, a Porsche Turbo S, and a 2022 BMW X5M Comp. I buy cars for only one reason—to drive.
So, I do not care if the battery is in the trunk; all I need is a worry-free engine start.
Has any of you ever moved the battery to the trunk?

 

firstly, I don't think Antigravity charges normally during a normal drive. I think Lithium battery's resting voltage is too high for ECU to tell the alternator to start charging. Alternator does kick in every now and then as I can see voltage fluctuate around 13v during a drive. I spoke with Antigravity about this, and their service reps & tech support didn't understand or want to understand what I was talking about. Anyway does this pose a problem? not really since the system will charge when the battery is significantly discharged, and the Lithium battery will start the car at that low-charge state. After a short drive though, I can tell the battery is significantly drained since it takes the battery tender a full day to charge the battery back up to 100%.

secondly, you need to add second ground from the battery to an empty bolt hole near the alternator. I believe this will be the solution to your problem. This made noticeable difference for me. my BMW oil drain plug bolted right into that hole. I'm running huge ground cable between the 2, and there is not a slightest hint of hesitation in any circumstances (repeat hot starts in Arizona summers).

third, as you see, that battery sits right on top of the header wrapped in thin fiberglass insulation mat. when you turn off the car, it just cooks. I took off the battery cover, and I keep the hood open after I park it. I would love to see someone relocate the battery to the trunk. I think this would be the ultimate solution. I don't think anyone has done it. There is plenty of room between the underbody panels & the frame to keep the positive cable nicely tucked in. You'll probably have to drill a hole somewhere in the back.

 

hot temperature drops resistance.

 

Thanks to those who answered to my post.
I can't charge my car because I live in a 43-story building with a parking garage, where the charging place is for hundreds of cars and far from my parking spots.
The real problem is that I cannot drive F12 and other cars almost daily because I started spending 6-7 months in Europe.
It's not a problem for my other cars, which can survive without charge for 30+ days because my youngest son comes every 30 days and drives those cars for 40 minutes, but the F12 cannot be alone that long.
I'm thinking of selling it before my next trip to Europe in May, but when I come back, I'll buy a 2016 or 2017 F12 and see how it will work; if I have the same problem, I will relocate the battery to the trunk even out of curiosity and definitely write about my experience.
I would have sold it years ago, but this car is unique.
It has a shield stating: "This is the 1st F12 in North America" on a compartment between the seats.
From Google search: "A charity auction in conjunction with this weekend's inaugural U.S. Grand Prix in Austin, Texas, saw the first U.S.-spec Ferrari F12 Berlinetta cross the block with a winning bid of $1.25 million. Nov 19, 2012".
That's the car I have, I'm the second owner.
Plus, it has a very specific kind of Red metallic custom paint.
When the car is washed and the sun is out (I live in North Miami), it's a show!
So, it's not that easy to sell such a car, and my wife is begging me not to sell it, disregarding the inconvenience of keeping it in "shape".
What a conundrum!

 

Backwards. Heat increases resistance. Cold drops resistance.

I added thermal insulation to the heat blanket when I changed the battery and installed the OEM vapor drain tube. Use an oven thermometer on either side of the battery thermal blanket and you will see just how hot the two regions actually are. Always raise the hood after a drive. Actually. its always raised when not driven to extend the life of the hood pistons and the bonus is the best part of the car is in full display. Avoid driving in extreme heat. Ferraris don't like that.

 

Yep bro, that is the same problem when you and me and other people installing the Lithium battery on Newer Ferrari which has Smart Alternator.
I think we need a proper Battery Sensor to make it charge normally like it should.
I'm trying to disable the battery sensor on the F12, Just unplug it then the car alway charge, but I have error on Dash, plus it can blow up the Battery If it overcharge.

so, so far still can't find the real solution for Adapt Lithium Battery on Newer Model Ferrari.

On 458 it was fine cause no battery sensor, no Smart alternator but not on F12, 488, 812...

 

do you know if the voltage regulator is on the alternator or done through the ecu?

lotus, if you need to go for weeks without charging, it's simple to do. just disconnect the negative terminal and put a rag between the connectors. it even has a lever so you can do it without a tool. the battery will stay charged for months.

 

Rent a storage unit that has electricity so you can trickle charge when not in use. I owned a 2017, I do not believe buying one will solve the root problem.