DIY Cam Cover and Intake Manifold Gasket Change and variable valve adjuster Solenoid 599

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For the back bottom Right cover bolt: I got a socket with a built in swivel, rather than a socket + a swivel piece. That made it short enough to get it off. Here’s what I used: Image Unavailable, Please Login

I installed the new variator timing solenoid valves. To get the old ones off I had to very slightly tap on the mounting bracket with a flathead and rubber mallet to flare them to break the seal, then I could pull them out. I used brake cleaner for the threads to ensure a dry torque value and dry installation is less prone to vibration. I used 100 in/lbs. Workshop manual said 10nm. Image Unavailable, Please Login


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When removing the valve cover, push the female portion of the variator timing solenoids into the case as far as possible so they don’t snag. I had to tap one cover with a rubber mallet to break it free.

I didn’t want to disconnect the rear cross piece of the oil breather hose between each valve cover that goes to the oil filler neck, so my friend helped me pull one side off while I got the other.

It’s seeming the removal of parts tends to be a two man job for this whole project.


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I then used a razor blade to clean the old gasket maker from the front corners of the valve cover. I used brake cleaner on a rag to clean the mating surfaces.

Be careful not to get anything into the engine. Use an air compressor and a thorough check to make sure nothing got inside. I have a trash bag over it for now, and will install the remaining new parts tomorrow.



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I spent an hour cleaning the covers. I started with a spray down of simple green and let it sit only a minute or two (I want to be cognizant if not denaturing the paint). I went over it with a water and dawn mixture. I used medical grade Q tips (doesn’t leave thread behind) on the corners and hard to get places.

I used a copper brush on the spark plug areas to get rid of some moisture corrosion in there. I’ll put a thin layer of dielectric grease in there to prevent it in the future.

I’ll put the spark plug tunnel seals on underneath the covers, then a couple drops of Honda bond on the front corners per the WSM, then my friend and I will lay the covers on and torque the bolts.

Almost ready for reassembly!


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Circled is where I’m putting hondabond


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I clean the gasket maying surfaces with brake cleaner on a rag.

You can see where the new spark plug chamber gaskets go. View attachment 3663796

 

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Now I’m just waiting on help to carry it over to install.

I’ll use an air compressor on any critical areas that have been open to the environment to ensure no debris is in there. Currently it’s covered with trash bags.

I took photos of the back corner where there are a couple coolant hoses and oil breather hoses that connect to the oil fill neck. I have mine wrapped in heat protective tape and Velcro heat shield covers. I replaced the valves on the hoses too. This seems to be a common serious fire hazard on these cars: the valves seep oil then the hoses erupt and/or the oil burns. The replacement hose (mine ruptured) has a reinforced heat shrink extra layer on it from original, so Ferrari must know this too. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

I am rewrapping a lot of the dried cloth harness tape and replacing some of the wire clamps that get brittle, like the two on each elbow between the MAF and throttle body.

I’m also cleaning every connector with DeOxit d5 and putting dielectric grease around where the connector seals seat to aid in moisture protection and removal in the future.

I’m thoroughly detailing the engine bay as this is crucial to recognize issues in the future. Fun fact: with airplanes, the first item on a 100 hr inspection (a regular inspection required for commercial use aircraft every 100 hrs) is to thoroughly clean the aircraft and engine bay. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/14/appendix-D_to_part_43


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New seals installed.


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Now, time to play with my favorite car… 1978 Datsun 280z. She just got a brake a clutch fluid flush with motul 660 and new tires (Michelin pilot sport 4s: 235-45-17 and 225-45-17). It also got a new valve cover gasket this spring but that only took 90 minutes lol. Tracking down a parasitic draw.

 

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Cylinder head covers are back on. We spent a lot of time to make sure the backs were aligned properly. We even used a borescope to see; going through the crankshaft sensor holes let us see well for the right one where the metal oil line blocks feeling it. While doing this we had something wedged between the block and the cover to make sure the front didn’t touch the gasket maker while we fiddled with the back.

I ended up using a different type of gasket maker. I’ll post a photo of it soon.

The bolts pictured: the one with the longest hex part goes in the back middle. The others are the lower middle where the exhaust heat shield mounts.

I finger snugged the bolts going full circle twice. Then waited 30 minutes then went pretty firm with fingers. I’ll take it to torque spec now.

I was very careful on those half circle parts of the seals in the back to make sure they’re aligned.


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No. That is an oil breather line with a one way valve on the side with the heat blanket. It connects to a port on the oil fill neck. - the rubber will actually twist off of the hard plastic heat shrink portion so I could have disconnected it. I didn’t learn this until it was out of the car.

FYI, that valve leaks oil overtime, which drips on the radiator rubber hoses, and can cause them to rupture and/or cause a fire.


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There is the gasket maker I used.

There is the swivel socket I used. It’s a bit shorter than the one in my set. Also, if I could do it again, I’d cut a few mm’s off of the swivel socket to make it even shorter.

I’m now torquing all the screws to 100 in/lbs. the workshop manual says 11nm so that 97 in/lbs. I’m using 110 in/lbs where I have to use a swivel joint. I went over every one at least twice with a torque wrench. I cleaned all hardware and mating surfaces too, to ensure proper torque.

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Some random assembly pics. You can see the excessive heat protective wrap I use on that back corner as we’ve found it’s a hazard if those valves end up seeping oil. I replaced the valves too of course.

I added a couple clamps on the back oil breather line that goes between each valve cover.

Remember, clean everything you can do spotting leaks in the future is easier.

I use parts diagrams a lot and past pictures to make sure things are put back together correctly.


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To get the solenoid C-clamps back on, I just tapped them in with a light hammer and file with some electrical tape on the top to not scratch anything. I touch up the valve cover with a red paint marker, such as where these clips scratch the paint. Image Unavailable, Please Login


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So, another thing I’d do different is buy new o-ring seals for the camshaft sensors (2 per side, sit on the aft part of intake manifold). Mine don’t leak and they usually don’t, so I’m not replacing mine.

I’m taking my time and referencing past photos for reassembly, to make sure wires are laid correctly.

I had a 15 min panic attack thinking I lost a screw. Turns out, on the left side valve cover, far aft, two brackets go to the same spot, sharing the same screw.

I spent time to arrange the wires correctly. Rewrapping the cloth electrical tape in most places. I will start tightening everything once Im 100% everything is arranged correctly.

Here are some assembly pics.

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Notice how the ignition coil wire goes underneath the variator wire. Also, notice the top variator wire bracket is oriented differently than the lower one.

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Look closely underneath the wire bracket, there is a smaller plastic bracket that goes there, that connects to the rubber cross tube.

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There were two zip ties holding the wire harness to that hose; I added just once but a bigger one than factory had.

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I added a couple extra hose clamps shown in the yellow circle.


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Right side assembled. Don’t forget to push in those little yellow plastic clips in each ignition coil connector. I use deoxit D5 on every electrical connection. I put dielectric grease in ceramic portion of spark plugs and on the seal of the ignition coil. I cleaned the inside of the ignition coils / where it connects to spark plug with WD40 specialist contact cleaner. I used an air compressor and vacuum simultaneously on the spark plug tunnels to make sure they’re clean of debris. I also inspected each one with borescope camera to make sure the spark plug tunnel gasket that sits in the backside of the valve cover.

The WSM didn’t say a torque spec on some of the screws like for the heat shield or for the wire clamps so I used 90 in/lbs since that’s about right for an M6.




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Left cylinder head cover installed.

Up next, borescope each cylinder for an inspection plus checking for debris. I’ll blow out each one with an air compressor too.

Then clean and install the fuel rail/plenum tunnel piece.


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So the job is done and the car is running great.

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When installing the runners, a second person will help so they can manipulate the hoses and wires between the tunnels to ensure you don’t scratch anything. I torqued the nuts to 90 in/lbs. manual says 10nm which I think is about 88 in/lbs. I replaced all lock nuts too.

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I cleaned the intake plenum and replaced the gaskets on the top section. I also replaced all the screws and washers there too. I torqued them to 85 in/lbs.

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I cleaned the runners too. I put seafoam fuel line cleaner in a spray bottle, sprayed it in there well, let it sit for an hour, then used brake cleaner to blast it away. Came off very easily. Then rinsed with dawn soap scrub, then rinsed with water, then immediately air compressor, then DeOxit on connectors.

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Don’t forget the fuel rail connectors. I cleaned the mating surface on both sides very well then made sure the flare was aligned as I tightened the nut.

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For these pieces (something with the oil/air system), I replaced the hard plastic pieces with rubber tube and put clamps on each side.




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Now I got the plenum on. Again, a second person is really crucial here. I didn’t have that and it was stupid to try. Luckily I planned ahead and had a towel down and fender protection.

Install the right side first so you can get that breather hose from back of plenum properly routed and placed into its hose clamp back there. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

Side note; when installing the fuel rail connectors and ignition coil plugs, read the labels on the wires to ensure they’re in the proper place.

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This is showing the back left middle screw for the cylinder head cover that I made sure to not forget about. It must be last because there is a hose mount/bracket that also goes there, that holds the two oil/air hoses from the plenum in it.

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Here it is installed.

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Don’t forget about the fuel line bracket that goes onto runners.

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Remember to clip these hoses back in place, the hoses that come from the plenums. It’s far easier to disconnect these (by the front left wheel well) than to undo the hoses from the back of plenum when installed.

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I replaced a couple of the hose clamps/brackets. Two different part numbers / two different clamps to order and be ready to replace. These ones go to throttle body and are locked into place by using pliers to pinch the rod that pushes in and locks the mount.

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Don’t forget about the small rubber hose that goes under the plenum. Getting otiker clamps in there was tricky but I managed. These are the hoses I put blue tape on to not have disappear on me during assembly.

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I left the engine bay panels off so I could diagnose/inspect after test drives.

Runs great….

What I’d do differently: take under tray off incase I drop anything. Have magnetic tool heads, like a 10MM and the allen head for the valve cover screws. I made a comment earlier in this thread about something else Id do differently too but I forget now.

Overall, it’s an easy job if you have the workshop manual (available by many members), patience, and no time crunch. If all parts are ordered and this thread is reviewed, it shouldn’t be a problem to do in a week of spare time after work. Patience is key, and discipline to walk away when getting frustrated so you don’t rush or force things. It’s fun taking your time, cleaning everything well, and making sure it’s put back together perfectly.

With all the extra work I did, I probably saved $10-15k doing it myself, plus I know it’s been handled appropriately, I have pride doing it, and I learned some new things. Most importantly, I got to buy some more tools!


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