Those dashes you see have happened too me a few times and both times it was the actuators position. I have no way of knowing if that is the only time they show up but I know the limit probes are very sensitive as in 1mm will make a difference. if you could compare your sd readings to a working one would you be able to adjust the amounts through the sd2 maybe it’s just the range is out vs the probes you installed? I have no idea but keep in mind if you were close to a limit without knowing you are close, after using it for a while it may have fallen outside the parameters allowed by the software.
I would unhook the actuator and ensure you can change all the gears manually and they are smooth and engage easily This would eliminate a mechanical issue, I personally feel your electronics are likely fine and it’s mechanical or the electronics are not getting correct information that they like therefor giving you the error. This is also fairly easy to test
Why do both printouts from the sd show low friction engaged. I don’t think this is a problem but was just wondering why you would have knowingly left that button pushed or does the sd test with it active I mine did not
Hey. Sorry I got busy with a few other things as well. Got an oscilloscope as eric had advised me to do so and take some measurements from the TCU. Have uploaded some videos in the folder. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Px11yuiP5vX8OnKxH4YfbKKFGAnFUQIf
Hello all. I have an update for the 355. First of all I would like to thank everyone in this thread for all the amazing help and insight they have provided. It is greatly appreciated and I am extremely grateful to everyone here. All of you have been so kind and graceful by providing me with all your valuable knowledge. So I had contacted Mr. Wolfgang some time back about the same issue. He directed me towards a faulty digital transistor on the TCU and a resistor. The exact part number and name for the digital transistor is ADTC114ECA-HF Automotive Trans Dig. Image Unavailable, Please Login Those are the 2 components that I had replaced and amazingly I got back the signal for the digital indicator in the instrument cluster. The neutral N light showed up immediately and the error code from the TCU also vanished. The resistor was not faulty but I replaced it anyway. The digital transistor was not easy to obtain and I purchased it from mouser.com. After placing the order I got an update from them stating that they had to place an order to manufacture the part. It took almost 2 months for me to get it. But either way that problem is sorted and a huge thanks to Mr. Wolfgang for all the help he has provided. I am sure you guys have seen his thread on the hacking the F1 TCU and it is some amazing stuff on there as well. Even though I was overjoyed after this issue got fixed my happiness was immediately shot down because still no shifting from the paddles. The SD1 tool got another error which used to come up occasionally before but now it present full time. Its the clutch solenoid valve error. I have checked the wiring from the TCU to the valve block and all the wiring is fine. I am assuming it is again an issue in the TCU.
Or the solenoid valve? There was an aftermarket manufacturer/supplier of these who came to our rescue. Previously if a 355F1 valve failed, you’d have to buy an entirely new power unit. Unfortunately, there was a recent message thread in the reliability of these valves. I can’t seem to find the message thread …
I know I am late to the party, but something jumped in my head. Check the brake lights and the brake fuse. Here is why I make the suggestion: I had this happen to me at a car show when I first got the car. Drove there zero issues. Went to leave and no shifting and no reverse or first gear. Thankfully I had left the car in neutral so they pushed me out of the way as we were on a main drag. I had the engine running as I was pushed and tried to grab first gear. It worked. I drove off the main street and stopped to thank my buddies, hopped in the car. No gear selection. They pushed again and off I went. I could drive as long as I didn't stop. The rear brake light burnt out and popped the fuse in the process. The ECU looks for a brake signal in that circuit before it lets you select 1st gear. With the fuse popped the ECU didn't see the brakes being applied. Once I was moving, the ecu says no brake necessary and off I went. I got home to fix it and noticed when I applied the brakes I had no brake lights. Replaced fuse...all is good. I keep an extra fuse in the car.
This is some great information and thank you. But unfortunately I have good lights and my fuses are all good. I have checked the fuses on various occasions. The TCU doesn't shift even through the SD1 tool. That's not entirely true actually but it attempts to shift and it's as though it can't give enough current to the solenoids.
Hey Qavion. I have checked the resistances of all the solenoids and if I manually engage each gear (with the help of a power probe and external wires to the solenoids) it works completely fine. So the power unit pressure and solenoids seem to be working fine.
Hello all. Just an update for this thread incase it is of any use to anyone in the future. Finally got all my shifting issues fixed in the 355. Many many thanks to everyone who replied here and helped me in so many different ways. I wouldn't have been able to do it without all of you guys. Had to replace a few parts Replaced the F1 TCU Replaced the hydraulic actuator shifting unit because of heavy leaks Replaced the hydraulic pressure accumulator on the power unit. Clutch position sensor. Digitek communicator between ECU and TCU. Transmission oil and power unit oil. Replacing the TCU fixed the original issue which caused the double lines on the gear indicator display. However after replacing all these parts my problems were not fixed immediately. I still had a lot of issues to get it to shift right. The gears would shift from 3-6 and reverse flawlessly everytime (from SD1). Had a lot of issues for 1st and 2nd. Had to perform the PIS and IO calibration to get the clutch to engage correctly. While on idle I got 1st a few times through the paddles but had to rev the car upto about 3.5k rpm to get it to move. Same case with reverse. After performing PIS and IO these issues were fixed and the car would move with very little throttle how it was originally. Strangely I was never able to successfully perform the octopus calibration no matter how much I tried. After all this I would still struggle to get 1st and 2nd gear through the paddles or even through the SD1. Other gears were fine. Inspite of performing the actuator centring through SD1 while installing the actuator on the transmission shaft I would still have the issue of 1st and 2nd. On some days through the paddles from neutral I would directly get 2nd gear and then downshift back to 1st. This was also random. Sometimes it would go to first and sometimes directly to neutral. Have also performed the full system bleeding from the SD1 of selection and engagement solenoids and also the clutch but did not help with 1st and 2nd. But after performing a manual bleed the car would find 2nd gear more often. For the manual bleeding I took the actuator unit off the transmission shaft and would perform gear changes while the bleeding screw was loosened. With the actuator off the transmission shaft the car could find all gears everytime but it seemed the actuator shaft would move a little slowly for 1st and 2nd weirdly but not the same case for the other gears. Did the same thing for the 2 clutch bleeding screws. After all this it was still very hard to get 1st and 2nd. What fixed this issue was pushing the actuator very slightly towards the transmission shaft. By about 3mm. Maybe even lesser. Noticed through the live data for engagement readings that the second gear value was always hovering around the minimum threshold. Same thing for 1st. After doing this I had all my problems sorted out. Found every single gear everytime. Took it out for a bunch of small drives and got every gear change like how it was. It's kinda weird that it was such a small issue in the end. But I finally got it running and it's all been smooth so far. Hope this might be useful to someone in the future if they ever come across this problem. Again thank you to everyone here also Eric and Wolfgang would have helped me a ton through DMs. I could not have done this without everyone's wisdom here.
What does this mean? ...pushing the actuator very slightly towards the transmission shaft... You pushed the actuator unit to engage the shift shaft by 3mm more?
The actuator has 4 nuts that tighten the actuator bracket on the engine. Loosened those 4 nuts and pushed the whole unit towards the transmission( towards the back of the car basically) and tightened it down again.
