Yes, in my case the o-ring was completely flat and there was probably no fuel leaking past the inlet. I have removed both inlet mesh filters as well to rule that out. Tomorrow I will have my fuel pressure tester and then I can know what is happening. BTW, do you happen to know if the metering plate lifts up a lot under WOT?
Never tried to fully lift it, but the distributor plunger slides over a 1,5cm "window", and the disc is actuates this plunger through a long lever, so the disc motion could easily be 10cm. (I moved it and could pass 2 fingers through the aperture)
The mystery continues... I connected a CIS pressure tester: System Pressure: 5 BAR Control Pressure: 3 BAR (ambient temp. around 28-30 degrees).
These were measured on the drivers side - will measure on the passenger as well, but doubt they will be any difference.
Ambient temp means very little. What is vital is WUR temp. Was control pressure measured a few seconds after turning key to on for the first time of the day or a few minutes? Knowing control pressure cold (a few seconds after first energizing system that day) and fully warmed up is critical and both sides need to be tested in exactly the same way.
Unfortunately, those don't seem obviously bad. On your 412, it should have a fuel line connecting the "inlet" ports of the two WURs together = so the control pressure should be exactly the same on both banks. Have you tried to measure the actual fuel flow rate from the injectors (volume of fuel delivered/time) for various airflow plate deflections (idle, mid, WOT) -- i.e., "the Dixie Cup test"? Example on 400i using quasi-equal size glass jars (but measuring without fuel injectors): Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Example on TR using 100mL graduated cylinders (measuring with fuel injectors): Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, I this exact test and calibrated each port to flow exactly the same - much better than factory spec I am flowing exactly 160ccm3 per min at WOT on each injector.
I guess I am back to square one - namely timing. The flywheels has two PM 1-6, but I doubt I am off by 180 degrees....
Control pressure was measured with the engine warm, and with the engine running and off (with the pump running). In all cases it was around 3 BAR - System pressure was always 5 BAR.
Given that you cannot crank the engine, vacuum is out of scope for now. Normally your car should start with cold control pressure and zero vacuum, which is when control pressure is at its lowest (i.e max enrichment).
The question is by how much does timing have to be off for it to affect vacuum this much? Is it possible that the assembly marks were wrong? I will take everything apart again. I can have everything off in under 2 hours with an assistant and impact wrench to remove the camshaft sprocket bolts.
Based on the same engine and camshafts The 400i does have 4° less of inlet advance and it is still a strong engine. I would consequently assume that your engine would be significantly out of spec if it feels more tame than a 400i. 4° at the crankshaft is 2° at the camshaft. So your camshaft would have to be offset by (at the very least) 2°.
It is significantly more than just "tame" - it takes around 25 seconds to reach 80 km/h - according to my app that estimates power with acceleration I have around 50 HP...lol
What chain tensioner have you used during the rebuild? Mine (from the usual UK supplier) was rapidely stuck, which induced a huge slack. This resulted in a totally out of spec timing. With a generous amount of oil, a pry-bar and an hour breaking period, the tensioner was perfectly smooth again, but the initial setting was screwed-up.
There is something that is confusing me...is it even possible to have good/high compression and low vacuum? Will measure compression on all 12 and post the results while I wait on my vacuum gauge.
Compression readings from the driver's side : Cylinder 12 - 165 PSI 11 - 160 10 - 160 9 - 160 8 - 155 7 - 160