So, next question: What does this screw do? I've never seen one on a K-Jetronic before! Also, how do you go about synchronizing the throttle bodies? (I have several types of manometers). Esben
That's the idle setting. Do not play with ut unless the auxiliary idle valve is working and engine is at proper temperature.
Thanks! I first softened the leather with "Leatherique", then cleaned it with Colourlock cleaning foam. After that, I sanded some of the rough areas with a Colourlock sanding pad and then degreased with Colourlock degreaser (judging from the smell, something containing a lot of urea). Then basically touched up all discoloured areas with Colourlock "Leder Fresh" that I had matched to one of the headrests. You apply it with a sponge, and then immediately dry it with a hot air gun. Repeat as necessary. To protect it all, I used Effax Leather-Balm. Very happy with the result! Esben
One of the next things on the agenda is finding out why the instrument lights don't work. I want to have a look at the potentiometer next to the rev counter, but how do I get the panel out? Do I just have to take out the 2 screw in the top corners? Thanks Esben
That's it. It requires a bit of persuasion as you do have to pull the cluster together with the harness that is pretty beefy.
The gas struts for the bonnet lost all pressure the other day, so had to be replaced (a wooden stick also does the trick of holding the bonnet up, but doesn't look very sexy). Not wanting to pay Ferrari prices, 195€ each here un Germany, I decided to get creative. A set of standard 22mm struts with 10mm pistons can be easily modified to fit. You'll need to order them with 685mm eye-to-eye length and 24mm eyelets with 8mm holes. 150N will be sufficient. The welded-on eyelets then have to be filed slightly the fit the very nice machined Ferrari end-pieces. These cost 76€ for 2.... Spot the difference? Cheers Esben
Good day Esben, It is too bad that you were not closer, as there is a great place that is relatively close to me that recharges, repairs, and/or creates strut replacements for very reasonable $. My original 365 GT4 2+2's struts also failed and so I had this company (https://lstechnologies.ca/products/) make a new set for me. Here is a comparison picture of the result (the top is the new one, the bottom is the old one). The cost was around 92€ for 2... and installed without any changes or modifications. I originally worked with LS for a set of struts for my 512BB when I first got the car (2005/6). These were installed in 2006 and still work as new... so 18 years and no issues... which these days is almost unheard of! Cheers, Sam Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I don't think so. I pulled the cluster on my C/4 many years ago and IIRC you had to go under the dash and remove the knurled nuts on the backside of the two center gauges to remove them. Then you could remove the screws shown in the diagram to get the speedo and Tach out. Might be different on your car but be careful prying the cluster loose as the old plastic easily breaks.
Thanks! I'm fairly sure the potentiometer is at fault, as I managed to get some of the dash to light up after twiddling the knob. Esben
Yesterday I started a thorough check of the the injection system. Started with the left bank, and found broken connections at the air valve and WUR. Good news is that both now work after having repaired the connectors Also, the pressures and flow volume of the pump are all within specs. Cheers Esben
On the 400 it's two captive nuts that are sandwiched in the metalic frame. Not obvious on the this poc, but you can see the thickness of the "sandwich" (sorry for the poor english) on the top left corner. This being said, on the 365 the bolt metric size for the dashboard is different than on the 400, so there are a few differences.
I've fixed my rheostat with nichrome wire (as sold by e-cigarette shops), works quite well, but Sam told me it was dangerous, so I replaced it with an electronic device with positive modulation. Here is the photo of the fix: Image Unavailable, Please Login
I finished checking the injection, and everything seems to be within spec! I replaced 5 injectors as they were dripping slightly, and I happened to have some NOS ones, and the proceded to synchronise the two sides an set the CO to 1,7%. It ran much better than before, but the idle is still a bit lumpy. Also the plugs are very light in colour. What do you guys set the CO at?
I set it based on rpm: make it slightly rich, then lean until the rpm drops, then back-off (i.e enrich) until the engine sounds good again. All of this is within 1/8th of a turn, in other words, the adjustment is very sensitive. I leave in the Alps so variable altitude plus gasoline that has a variable amount of ethanol depending on the season. So I prefer to tweak it "manualy" often, rather than make a perfect tune that will be ruined by the next blend of gazoline.
I made the mistake of attaching my synchroniser to the vacuum lines at the front of the engine, hence setting the rich position of the WUR.... I've just redone it using the take-off below the throttles, and it's much better now! It has developed a tendency to cut out once in a while, which "feels" like something electric... I think the next thing is going to be splashing out on a new fuse box, as mine has several areas that have gotten hot in the past. @raemin: do you run yours on 95 or 98 octane? Cheers Esben
I run mine on 95, 10% ethanol. All our blends do have some ethanol now (either 5%, 10% or 85%), so I had to upgrade the k-jet to ethanol compliant seals. While I was there I decided to tune the car for the cheaper blend. As for the RON : these are low compression engine, so I do not think 95 or 98 does make such a difference. Mine has high compression pistons, no pre-ignition even on 95.
Had it out on a run today, and I think I've got the injection mostly sorted. On minor annoyance is that the car "hunts" slightly on the overrun. I've set the CO to 1,7% - the handbook calls for 1-2%. Is there any benefit to running it richer or leaner with regards to the "hunting"? Cheers Esben
I found a loose wire behind the battery. Can anyone tell me where it's supposed to go? There is a tab on part of the airco that hasn't got anything attached to it, maybe there? Cheers Esben
There is a sual purpose harness for manual and auto gearbox, i do not remember which is which, but this one is for the tranny you do not have...
I want to start reconditioning the brakes today, chiefly having the discs skimmed and rebuilding the calipers. Is there a convenient way of getting the car on jack stands? At the rear I suppose it can be lifted by putting a jack under the diff, but is there somewhere at the front strong enough for a jack? Cheers Esben