Not yet, turbo parts were delayed from supplier. It’s driving me crazy but what can you do (shrugs) Will post up some pictures when it’s finished
Yeah going to have to go with no on this one. Regarding the tubes It has nothing to do with complex shapes being idealized for performance and everything to do with manufacturability. Factory cars use plastic pipes because they’re cheap, they can mold them to fit multiple cars and they can build a lot of features into one part. Almost all race team use symmetrical shapes like circles, tubes to create the least amount of Turbulence. This goes for intakes, Exhausts And anything in the system that has flow. The tuners comments above are accurate because there are many ways to make horsepower throughout the whole curve (and not just the peak) that don’t require changing the max boost, max timing, or fuel. This is actually what you feel not typically peak horsepower. The Ferrari system is torque driven and will Map the efficiency based on the side that has the greatest load. This is another reason that changing out the intakes can help, especially if one side is compressed and the other side is not on the driver side of the 488. A simple but great performance gain can come by simply increasingly octane of the fuel. This smart system can add additional timing and the net result will be higher horsepower. There are also other things that tuners are doing, depending on if you have intakes mid pipes or x-pipes. This comes through trial and error and that is what you’re paying for, their experience on the Dyno. Just be happy that it’s not your car on the Dyno because it’s extremely hard on Parts. Believe it or not having some slippage in the system, whether it is breaking the tires loose or the transmission is a good thing. Having things strapped down and putting tire tack on the rollers, heavily loads the system.
Great question. The ecus limit power by the use of "torque limits." The car essentially has an internal Dyno graph it follows and will not exceed a maximum output of x torque (whatever the map calls for) regardless of what boost and timing are set at. You can add ten degrees of timing and 10psi of boost and it will make stock power if the torque limits are not raised. This is why piggybacks don't work on a lot of modern European cars. The stock maximum psi could be 27 psi (it is) but the car will only be making 15psi because it doesn't need more than that to hit a specific torque limit in the ECU. These cars make the same power on Everest and in death valley and have a wide standard deviation of timing and boost it can run to achieve consistent power in any condition on the fly. We are helping the car hit new targets of power without forcing power into the car. That's our general philosophy based on our map knowledge and experience, others may have a different understanding and approach but we don't believe in tuning cars as if we have a spare engine handy. Just releasing its hidden potential; as such, pump gas tunes rarely need added timing and in the case of the 488, pista, and F8 the stock maximum boost pressure setting is already optimistic.
That's with stock turbos? I'm just trying to compare yours to my mase tune. I think I'm around 700 whp based off my race weight and trap speed, but I'm at 20 psi.
For a completely untuned, stock 488? Is there a data/measurement example of this octane dependent performance increase that you can share as a link? Thanks!
I am going to bet that this info is proprietary to Ferrari and any tuner who figures it out. Still would be interesting to know and see. I pretty much believe that for the 2019 488's Ferrari changed the ECU tuning. I have seen video's and Dragtimes on YouTube confirmed the 2019 488's were faster. Ferrari never published any post in HP or TQ but they changed something on power delivery.
Something is definitely going on. 488's are all over the map when it comes to power output. Trap speeds all over the place. I trapped 135 mph in my heavy ass Spider with a race weight of 3710.
I don't have data logged to support the exact numbers but it's a smart system so higher octane means it can increase timing and fuel until the next limit is hit. Again, it's not going to be monumental in a stock car as another component will eventually limit the performance. The highest gains are cars with intakes, exhaust, turbos and tunes where your limit eventually becomes octane. Also remember every car is different and this is why two identically equipped cars can make ~+/-30hp. Altitude, humidity and ambient air temperature also play big part in the final numbers. Also keep in mind Dyno numbers are only as good as the person dynoing the car. The real test is what you feel in the car and how it performs. In my opinion peak horsepower on the street is irrelevant if it only happens 8-10K RPM and your normal operating range is 5-7K. So it would be better to build a system that performs in the range in which you are driving your car.
Yeah, as you can see in the F8 dyno I posted, peak power doesn't really change, but it gains roughly 120whp and 120wtq under the curve on 91 with high flow downpipes and exhaust. Here is a 488 dyno also: Image Unavailable, Please Login
It’s been a few weeks since any progress pics so here are a few. Took took guys at Pure Turbo a bit longer than expected to get mine rebuilt but they turned out great. Attached are a few pictures. Install was fairly straightforward, but thankfully, none of the Italian engineers that designed these damn oil and cooling lines were near my garage while I was trying to reinstall the turbos. I think hands-down, that was the worst part of the job. It did require a couple of tools that made the job much easier but nothing anybody couldn’t do their home garage. Took me about 2 hours per side to reinstall the whole system. The mid pipes were a bit challenging to get lined up with the X pipe without removing the rear tail. I think the Turbo Source Inconel heat shielding on the mid-pipes is going to really help to keep the engine bay temperatures down. Also it should reduce the radiant heat on opposing lines and hoses. Surprisingly having done it now one time I think my total time if I had all the parts would be about ~10-11 hours. (Just keep in mind I am not a Ferrari Technician). I labeled everything in small baggies and kept track of how things were assembled and just redid it in the reverse order. Although there are a few tricks, I learned along the way that made the installation go much faster and easier. Still have a couple things to clean and reroute but hoping to have this buttoned up in the next few days. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Awesome!!! So on the outside the rebuilt Pure Turbo looks like stock oem but the guts are improved more reliable higher quality? Thanks for the update can't wait to hear and see a video of your car running!!!
Yes, but you have to request turbos without engraving logos and tags. The rebuilt turbos have machined housings with new bearings, turbine wheels made of Inconel and billet compressor wheels. The mid-section is VR balanced to exceed factory specifications according to Pure. Of the USA options they seemed like a good choice and I still believe a much better solution than a factory replacement. Although time will tell.
It’s a Direct Lift, Pro Park 8 Plus Long, have 2 and they work good. Although now they have 9 Plus which is a bit wider and would fit the Ferrari better. However if you are trying to save garage space I would check out the outside dimensions online. Have a set of sliding jacks as well which makes wheel well access easy. For DIY guys and storage these are great but for regular service a 2-post is a better solution. Hope this helps.
Had factory passenger go in 2022. Replaced both with pure 800 using factory housing. Next year 2023…passenger goes again, pure covers under warranty. 2024 passenger turbo for the 3rd time goes again. Currently in shop waiting to hear if pure will cover under warranty as only 1 1/2 months out of 1yr warranty.
I believe we can tune it with a more conservative max turbo rpm speed and prevent future failures. Especially if it's been tuned before and someone has raised this limit they tend to pop, even with conservative boost settings.
what tune do you have on your car? Turbo boost?…lots of pops bangs fire? Cool down drive after lots of boost running?
I own a 2021 F8 spider with 46,000 miles. My warm up procedure is to allow the RPM to fall back to its quiet low idle. Usually I only wait 20 seconds before I shut down. Factory exhaust and GPF. I bought the full factory plus extended warranty. If my turbo fails will FNA cover them?
If you keep these cars OEM stock the turbo's are not really an issue it seems. I'm sure there is a case here and there but when you dig deeper on failed turbo's these cars usually have after market exhaust and tune.
