Got this far - how does the renowned come off the car? I am assuming the aluminum block stays on the car and the clutch slave hydraulic assembly is removed from the top once the large circlip is removed? If it pulls up and out won’t it fowl the top of the engine? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ah - looks like I need to gently open the housing (maybe with a screw driver) and it will come out through the top?
If it is to change the seal, not needed to remove the entire pump. If you need to remove the pump, like you mentioned, remove circlips above and it should come out to the top. But not easy !, Try to heat up the alu housing without burning the wires around. And with a piece of wood, beat on the outer ring of the lower side pump.
I do not recall ever removing a circlip with slave in place. Take out entire assembly. It has been quite a while but I just do not recall it being very difficult. It looks like the nuts were over tightened and completely closed the split in the clamp. That may be causing binding on the studs which might require some prying to get it off.
You have to remove the circlips (or stopring) to lift that pump out of the housing number 39 on drawing.... https://www.eurospares.co.uk/Ferrari/Mondial/Mondial_3.0_QV_(1984)/PartDiagrams/019/Clutch_and_Controls?ref=039
why would you remove the circlip and pull it out of the aluminum housing rather than remove two M8 nuts and just pull it all off together (with the aluminum housing)?
The two M8 nuts are far easier to deal with rather than wrangling with the big circlip in the tight confines of where the clutch slave is located... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Also, upon re-installation, it should be much easier to get the aluminum housing back on the two studs as opposed to trying to get the circlip back on in that tight space....
Most of the time those studs are fused with the alu inside the housing holes so impossible to remove without braking something.
If that's the case, maybe some PB Blaster in the opening in the aluminum bracket followed by a large screwdriver from the top in that groove to gently open the bracket - mine came right off but I get what you are saying... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thank you for all of the responses and coaching. First time turning a wrench on this so it is all new to me, but the aluminum block that houses the slave should just pull off once the two bolts are removed?
You have the two nuts off. Provided the fluid line and linkage are disconnected, you should be able to just pull off the aluminum housing with the clutch slave - should slide right off those two studs
Life got in the way so just picking this back up now and that housing is properly stuck in place, tried carefully knocking it loose and it isn't moving at all.
Yes it’s tight,, put car on Jack stands, Disconnect and move wires out of the way. Time to clean those connections,, tape and bag them. ,, Then, I use a standard pry bar-nail puller type. next ,, I think I used a broom stick ,, like 18” long,,, pry it off. note; When you re-install it,, drill out those two holes. There is No need, for them to be that precise,, other then to,, Stick like Glue.
Excellent tip, will slightly enlarge the openings. Was also thinking that anti-sieze would be a good idea too. Think I can have this welded back together (making sure the dimensions stay the same)? I have access to people who are good at TIG welding. Thanks!
I warned you something can brake ! It can be welded back and there is need to be perfect. Pump is secured with that span ring.
....."there is need to be perfect"...must be " there is NO need to be perfect" !! You are lucky you did not brake the engine case bolt mountings. That would be a disaster. And those who mention "They have always come off by hand.",
I think what happened is that the slave cylinder, not the hose, went bad and the leaking fluid got into the openings for the bolts and then seized everything together. I didn't use that much force so it may have already been fatigued. I will try getting it repaired. I assume that anti-seize on the case mounting bolts would be a good idea? Thank you for the help/support, hope everyone is having a good weekend.
When the slave seal leak it will flow under that pump, not going up to the bolts. That is why I mentioned not to try open that bracket but push pump up wards leaving that bracket untouched. This Alu material is very bridle. I try to leave pump and bracket untouched and only replace the seal in situ from the underside.
Hello! My bolt openings has fluid in them for whatever reason, and the inside of the housing was also covered in fluid. I did try gentle rapping the bottom of the cylinder to remove it that way but it did not want to move either. I think a little bit of anti-seize on the opening where the cylinder fits might be a good idea too since the method you have described would have saved a lot of effort. Thank you and everyone again for the information/methods.
Wow, that is unexpected! I will definitely put some antisieze on that surface next time I do this job. I guess the brake fluid attracts moisture, and then seeps in and causes things to corrode/galvanic action.
i just replaced my slave cyl on my car ... i just purchased the car on 31 july 24 . i got it back to my home and found on inspection it leaking ... the repair went easy , what did shock me was my brake fluid was clean in the master cyl , but nasty in slave ... I am thinking that whomever had been flushing the brakes could not connect that the fluid in slave should be flushed at same time brake fluid is changed .... I am writing this as a warning ... next time you have your brake fluid serviced ... make certain your tech is doing the clutch bleeding too... I feel this whole experience was unnecessary if the tech had done a complete brake fluid replacement ... not just the 4 wheel calipers....