Image Unavailable, Please Login Oil level was at the lower end of the stick, but pressure and temp always normal. Added about 1L and it reads almost full again.
What's the outside edge look like? If its also similarlty worn, it could be a sign of underinflation OR you take turns too hard If its worn just on the inside edge on the front, it could be excessive toe out (like duck feet) or too much negative camber (like a "stanced" car)
Gunn, thanks. The outer edge is perfect; I keep the pressure at 36psi. I am suspecting camber as the car has settled down since the suspension was set originally after the rebuild. My guess is that excessive tow-out would lead to some noticeable straight line and braking stability issues.
If your wheel face is flat, you can place a straight edge and see if you can eyeball if the camber is excessively off Best solution is to swap tires and take it ito a laser alignment place Interesting comments about what you would experience with different toe changes for FWD, RWD, and AWD vehicles. https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/adjust-tune-toe/
Do you have wheel spacers ? When I put 4 new tires on my 328, I ask to do the alignment. Hombre put 328 on his computer and went with the numbers of the first 328 on his program. Luckely I noticed that it was for 328 with ABS....and my car is the older type. So, maybe, your alignment guy also put Mondial ...but with ABS in his sistem.
No, I don't have any spacers. I am using the original offset Superformance reproes. My car has the 3.2 rear hubs and anti-roll bars fitted (why I don't know) so I am using the standard 3.2 16" alignment values. This is the first time I have this wear pattern on my front tires.
How many miles on those tyres ? A pity you have to change those (almost on the canvas) as the rest of the tire is almost new.
I would check first the following things = Image Unavailable, Please Login And check all the bolts from suspension are tight.
Then you can check the Toe-in yourself Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login This is for mondial QV setting what would be right for your car even with the 16" wheels and 3.2 rear hubs.
Rough camber check showed nothing unusual. But the battery started dying, luckily giving some hints over the last few days. I picked a new one up and fitted it. Dash lights etc are brighter... or just my imagination? Image Unavailable, Please Login It lasted 3.5 years and 29'000mls/46'000km. Not sure if that's good or bad, but I expected more from a regularly used battery. Maybe the temperatures it too high here?
When the front spoiler was off last time to straighten it out, we scanned it (they are rare parts and hard to find unbent); the waves not really visible to the naked eye are clearly visible on the scan: Image Unavailable, Please Login As this was a real part off a used (my) car, it wasn't symmetrical. Here a view of a mirrored version of that data (in green) superimposed to the original data (in grey) to highlight the issue of scans of real parts: Image Unavailable, Please Login The part was essentially twisted along its y-axis. To untwist it, we sliced the superimposed data in 100mm sections and rotated/repositioned each section to get the best compromise of data coherence. Then we lined up each data set on some guidelines we drew in 3D. Here you can see the difference of the left and right sections: Image Unavailable, Please Login In pink and yellow the re-aligned sections: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Combined Image Unavailable, Please Login Then we created the data; here the wireframe: Image Unavailable, Please Login Shaded: Image Unavailable, Please Login We redesigned the inside surfaces so it could be milled (or 3d printed) in ABS as a replacement part. With the realigned sections and some surface work, the hightlights run perfectly fine for a front spoiler finished with stone-chip paint. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ron this would be a milled ABS replacement part, so wall thicknesses have been increased accordingly. This would be a last resort for a part that can't be reasonably fixed, such as my original rusted and heavily distorted item.
You should cast them and make them available. I continue to be in awe of your expertise and talent. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Me too! I thank Ronl when I feel cool air conditioning on my face and whenever I latch my convertible top securely! Also, thanks to Afterburner for his expertise and great electrical drawings! Alden
On the righthand bottom inside of the dash center vent outlet duct. It's accessible by removing the centre vent. You need to drill out the bracket rivets from below. I'd suggest to use bolts to refit it. Also, to remove it from the car, you have to remove the connectors from the plug so you can get the cable through the housing. Mark the colors! Here a pic of HVAC unit from the bottom - the 2 rivets are holding the bracket: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Remember the broken Ferrari umbrella? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login There is one umbrella repair shop left here: Image Unavailable, Please Login He couldn't fix it as one strut was broken. So I untrimmed it to keep the printed tissue. Once untrimmed, I gave it a try and started bending everything back. For the broken strut I made a U-channel reinforcement from a scrap alloy sheet. It had broken at the hole area for the push/pull link. Image Unavailable, Please Login I used Araldite to glue it in Image Unavailable, Please Login I drilled the hole for the push-pull link: Image Unavailable, Please Login Unfortunately, the system does rely on the bending ability of those horizontal struts, which got compromised by my rigid bridge. I couldn't refit the link (it needs to pull down = bend the strut by roughly 5mm over it 250mm - wild) so I removed it: Image Unavailable, Please Login Last step was refitting the top and sewing back the tissue onto the ribs. I used one more sewing point in the upper section to prevent the ribs from going sideways - all of them had been bent and even straightened, weakened by the kinks. Image Unavailable, Please Login All good, ready for rainy days, and with 3 attachments for rib stronger than before: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Question to MONDIAL 8 & quattrovalvole owners with TRX wheels or wishing an updated look: Who would be interested to have 17" rims in the original style on their cars? Three units 7J x 17 ET51 (one as a spare wheel) & two units 8J x 17 ET51 Milled in 6061-T6, painted silver metallic (or custom color) and clear coated. Digital structural testing & optimisation, but no paperwork (similar to other suppliers of repro wheels). Physical testing for certification would require 5 units (which would be lost) and costs a small fortune. They'd be made in China at one of the largest alloy wheel suppliers with accreditation by the TÜV, VIA, etc. We use them for prototype wheels. The set of 5 would cost USD 7'500 plus shipping and import duties/taxes in the destination country.
