New contender for single din carplay

I was able to fix it, the one file didn’t work. I just tried another one and it worked


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Just an update on my issue with car play disconnecting every few minutes. When I just have it said to Bluetooth music, I have no issues. I'll talk with customer service again.

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Write copy and save one of the posts from above picture or just take a picture off the Internet I have attached one and rename it changelogo and save it as a JPEG file on your flash drive, not in a folder, just on the main part of the flash drive, and then plug in the flash drive

 

I managed to install this little 4 channel amp; which has xovers on both pairs (front or rear) , and setup the rear LPF for the subwoofer speakers, and front to flat for the door speakers. I can say that the stock unit sounds 1000 times better with the new amp. And I am on stock speakers in the doors so far . I do have the 2x Polk 5.25" subs in the box between the seats, and with a 125Hz cutover they just rock.

The factory amp is cr0p, no matter what unit you put in there.

https://soundstream.com/product/st4-500d/

If you are handy with de-soldering pump, you can slowly remove the plug from the old amp mainboard, and using the pinouts available solder the amp connections to the plug (just so you don't have to hack into the car wires). If the old amp is dead anyway...

 

very nice little amps. Super compact and work well. Class D amps arent what they used to be for sure!

 

If it’s my stuff you are better off using my zip file. It has everything with the correct names. You just copy the boot logo from the folder for your car to the root of the USB key.

 

It sure if this has been mentioned before, but I got an anti-glare matte screen protector from Amazon and cut it to size for the PA unit. It works amazing to give better visibility. Before, it was so glossy that I had a better view of my Daytona seats in the reflection of the screen than I did the Waze map. Also, the screen completely disappeared with polarized lenses. Now, with the screen protector, no more glare, no more reflection, and perfect visibility with polarized lenses. Win all around. Highly recommend this if you haven’t done it already.

 

Which one did you buy? Most of them are actual safety glass and not easily cut.
Also does it help with the feel of the screen providing a little resistance to your finger when you scroll? I rented a Nissan last week when I was in California and it had carplay and even with the small screen it felt better because there was a little resistance when using the touch screen and scrolling.

 

Which model did you purchase and does it hinder the touch functions. How easy was it to cut. Most crack when you cut


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I used the Supershieldz anti-glare matte screen protectors for the 7” Fire Tablet. 3 pack for $8. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0B1VT1JFS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It’s a rigid but flexible film, not a glass and not a floppy film. I measured, and with a straight edge, scored the lines very lightly with a fresh razor blade, over and over again until it went through. Probably less that 10 passes per cut. No chipping. No bubbles upon application, and no messy sprays as with other products. Got it right the first time. It’s smooth, so your finger doesn’t drag on it or leave fingerprints, and all touch screen sensitivity is identical to the stock performance.

 

OK, this one seems to be PET (polyethylene terephthalate) so it should cut with a razor blade. I have two types of paper cutters, one cheap one from Walmart that uses a razor blade and a $150 artist one from HobbyLobby which uses a cutting wheel. I have a feeling I will use my cheap $10 Walmart one, but with a 3 pack I can try the artist cutter one since it makes perfect precision cuts.

 

Good sales pitch just ordered one set. Anybody near Tampa? I will probably have two extras!

 

As this is not a full-size Tesla or BMW screen going across the dash, I’m not really sure any little tiny. Things are going to show up really well. Maybe a piece of blue tape so that it doesn’t drag across the PET

 

looks like Hobby Lobby doesn't sell my better cutter anymore. But amazon does for less money than I paid...

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-100580-1002-Procision-Rotary-Trimmer/dp/B00QY1FDGU

if you look at the pictures you can see it doesn't drag anything on the surface so no blue tape should be needed.

 

Wow, what a difference the film makes. Besides cutting glare it creates a nice OEM like delineation between the control area and the screen but more importantly, dragging on the screen feels way better. This really feels like the factory nav touch screens in other European cars.


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Agreed! I’m glad you like it! I’m a big fan too.

 

So what is the verdict, buy or skip? I have some junky aftermarket mech unit in my 360 now. I have a backup camera too so been curious of that view on such a small screen though CarPlay and use ability are #1

 

It's pretty great for what it is, but if you are expecting top of the line, you may not like it.

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I say “buy”. Better sound quality from the stock speakers, CarPlay that doesn’t have to be mounted on my windshield, albeit on a smaller screen, and better usability.

 

Which pioneers did you get? I've found several but want to make sure they work with the factory grills. Thanks!

 

Just wanted to say, my first long drive this weekend 350+ miles with the Power Acoustic over using my iPhone in a mount with the factory Becker navigation/lightening aux cable.

This time I didn't have my usual navigator so paper instructions backup were not an option, I had also removed my iPhone mount so I had to rely on the CP71 the whole way.

Changes the whole experience. The only downside was that the Roadstr app used to plot the rally directions kept crashing every time it spoke an instruction in CarPlay mode vs running it previously over lightening audio only, but it turns out that is an app problem as others had the same issue with factory CarPlay radios. So I switched to Apple Maps for the drive and changed the route preferences and it was almost the same drive as the Roadstr instructions since I saw other Ferrari cars on my route.

Getting to and from the drive was a great experience using Waze for CarPlay. Only trick. Make sure you don't accidentally run Apple Maps at the same time. I picked my destination using the phone interface, then clicked on the CP71 map screen in CarPlay to start, except it was Apple Maps not Waze. Didn't see my phone change so I clicked start on the phone's Waze app also. Now I was running two navigation programs which was fine until they disagreed on a turn and I had to quickly realize what is going on and stop the Apple Maps. Shouldn't happen again since I learned my lesson and hopefully other will learn from my mistake.

 

I also took ot for a road trip over the weekend. It was amazing having navigation in the car! The damn android auto kept crashing though. Sometimes ever 15 minutes, sometimes every 2 minutes. If I use Bluetooth music it has no problems. Beats me. When it's working I couldn't be happier with it. I'm wondering if that GPS antenna they included is for receiving the phone signal better. I figure I'll hook that up and see if it helps.

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I had the factory navigation in my 2009. It was about as good as the factory navigation in my old 2003 Audi S6 Avant. Better than nothing and a good backup when you don't have cell phone reception or poor GPS reception since it is integrated into the car's telemetry to try and guess where you are since it last saw a satellite.

 

The good news is, thanks to you all, I was able to install the unit today using the Red Wolf harness (I bought the Metra one as well, but I didn't want to deal with RCA and also read one of you had a Metra harness that had a pin swapped incorrectly). I also was able to install the rear camera and front camera (bought it on Amazon) pretty simply as well.

The bad news is that the unit has a constant static hiss noise as soon as the unit gets turned on. I feel like the static noise disappears when there's actual music being played, but there may be a feint hiss in the background. I've read that with some aftermarket head units, sometimes the grounding may be the issue.

Have any of you had issues with the static noise?

 

The Power Acoustik customer support said their external mic jack wasn't supported. How did you connect your mic? Are you sure it's the external mic that's picking up your audio and not the built in mic?