Hello all. I've been working on my car here and there. Just spent some time doing another engine out and down to dealing with my last small issue. The engine out was an all inclusive one and the following was done: Belt changed, timing set Valves adjusted to back in specs new plugs new plug wires new fuel filters gas tanks drained Fuel injectors set out, cleaned, serviced and flow tested TBs cleaned MAFs cleaned New O2 sensors New air filter replaced the pig tail on the phase sensor, it was cracking as usual Cleaned the crank sensors new battery Finally getting to my issue.Car runs great and like new. REV very fast and normal to what the car has always been like. FYI, iv had the car for about 13 -14 years, i think, and done a few engine outs already. The issue is that under cruising load, in any gear, at a little before 3k rpms, if im just holding the gas steady, the pitch of the exhaust changes from a crisp sound to a "muffled" sound and it feels like the car loads up on fuel.. If this happens and I press the gas peddle, it takes off like a small shot of NOS. The sound is almost like the car is "warming up" when the choke is on, sorta. Before the engine out, the car ran fine and this has never been an issue. just not sure what else to check so I'm looking for ideas. Thanks ALL!!
Hmmmmmmm……. How about trying a reset of the ECUs, and letting them go through relearning the initial warm-up readings? The reason is that when the Motronic ECUs relearn the initial warm-up parameters, they start by getting the initial resting signal from the throttle position sensors. It could be that the signal is off and therefore the fuel mixture is getting richen up before it needs to. What brings me to that guess is that the intake compensation valve begins opening at 3000 RPM. So if the ECUs are adjusting the fuel (due to a faulty TPS signal) just before it is supposed to open it could be messing with your fuel mixture, resulting in what you are experiencing. This is purely a guess, but it will cost you nothing to give it a try. Before you do the relearn, you will want to check the reading on the throttle position sensors first. Make sure that they are within spec. Then make sure that the throttle bodies are absolutely in sync when opening and closing. One last thing. After you did your engine out, did you balance the throttle bodies with a manometer? If not, you may also want to do that.
Update: I think you are on to something Ernie. i rest everything by turn the power off, via the knob, for 24 hours. started the car and idle untouched for 15 mins and 2 cycles of the fans and the SES light came on. It came me the 1113 code.The light was from the start up of the car. I guess ill address this. No other codes are showed up.
Got the TB sensor replaced to fixed the 1113 code amd it's resolved but there is a new code now. The issue is still presit and the new code is 4114. After looking that code, I can't tell if it's the phase sensor or the cam sensors. Does anybody have a straight answer on which way to go on this?
It's hard to say what the code is referring to. I have... "TDC control unit recognition". Does that mean that one of the ECUs is bad? RPM sensor is 1121 Stroke sensor is 4112
4114 - TDC control unit recognition. This refers to the Crank Sensor. It is normal to get this code if checked when your engine is off so it does not mean any fault in such a case.
It could be due to a partially faulty FPR (one or both). Possible scenario: when the load on the engine is reduced (cruising) and the fuel consumption is lower, the FPR is unable to open the return path enough resulting in increased fuel pressure in the manifold which, in turn, causes rich running of the engine. However, if this "theory" is correct, the engine would also run rich (muffled and uneven) when idling hot. Is this also happening? I would check the fuel pressures, while hot engine is idling, over a period of few minutes.
That doesn't sound right. On my car (2.7 F355) it's 1121 that I get when codes are checked with engine off (because the ECU doesn't see a signal from the RPM sensor). I've never seen the 4114 code for TDC.
I took the definition of 4114 from the code list that I have for the 2.7 348 assuming that it also applies to 2.7 355.
How does this 4114 differ from these, Miro? I assume the RPM sensor is the crank sensor as that provides information to the tacho. I can't say I've heard the expression stroke sensor on Ferrari forums, but fortunately, the code table is multi-lingual and the other languages call it a phase sensor, so basically the cam sensor.
4114 is a real code. Ferrari told me that the reason the code doesn't exist on the 355 is they didn't believe that people who bought a 355 over a 348 could count that high, so that made it more simple.
LOL, it does exist for the 355. 1121 and 4114 are both F355 codes. But on an F355 1121 is the one that will appear if the codes are checked with the engine off.
Check to make sure that the gap between the crank sensor/s and the teeth on the pulley is within spec. Also have a look at the condition of the wires underneath the rubber boots for the crank sensor connector/s.
My understanding is as follows. 1121 RPM Sensor - no reading of the teeth on the pulley - problem with the Crank Sensor or the reading is taken with the engine not running. 4114 TDC "Internal" Recognition - no recognition by the ECU of the TDC signal (missing teeth point) read by the Crank Sensor; appears to mean problem in the ECU; I read somewhere that this code may also be shown if the reading is taken with the engine not running. It makes sense that both, 1121 and 4114, may be displayed if the code reading is taken when the engine is not running (no input from the Crank Sensor). 4112 Sensore di Fase (meaning "Phase Sensor"), also translated in the manual as "Stroke Sensor" or "Timing Sensor" (probably because the ignition stroke is recognised via the Cam Sensor) - problem with the sensor on the camshaft.
Illustration on the diagram: Image Unavailable, Please Login As to the reasons why the spikes (4114) are not recognised, I believe that it is primarily due to a problem in the ECU but it could possibly be an issue in the Crank Sensor although it seems impossible that the sensor would send a good 1121 RPM signal (teeth reading) and not a good signal for the 4114 (spikes reading). "joshtownsend", are you certain that you get only 4114 and not the 1121 at the same time?
All I know is that 11 years I get 1121 every time I have checked the codes with the engine off and I have seen, now that I recall it, 4114 once. That was just after I got the car. I was naive at the time and had a problem getting the car registered because of emissions. I checked the codes with the engine off and found 1121 and 1112, crank sensor and cool temperature sensor. I replace both sensors on that bank and started the car. Fortunately I left it running while I checked the codes again. 4114 popped up even though the car was running perfectly. Shut the car off, restarted it and 4114 disappeared. Shut the car off and checked again and got only 1121. And then it dawned on me that there would not be an RPM signal if the car wasn't running. Never seen 4114 since then. I figured it had something to do with replacing the sensor.
Hey, it's between 0.35mm and 0.90 Image Unavailable, Please Login Or at least I think that's what it means. It doesn't makes sense if it was 0.35 +/- 0.90.
Yes, the acceptable gap is anywhere between 0.35 and 0.90 mm but it is important that it is same on both sensors (banks). This is the reason why very thin sensor shims are used - to fine tune the banks. For proper gap measurement, you need non-magnetic (brass) feeler gauges.
