If you read the the thread ..you and I have arrived at the same diagnosis and recommendations.. Bottom line we need the right tool for the job at this point ..and most likely internal leak .. solenoid or so etching else in power block Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
JazP, Ruling out 1 and 2. (1) air in the system, (2) a bad accumulator or that there is That leaves 3. (3) an internal leakage in your hydraulic block. Can you point to the location of the pressure-relief valve? I did not see it in the WSM. As for solenoid, how do I imitate the tricky tool I don't have?
Where are the three screws at the control arm. I am guessing you are referring to the Actuator Block as the Control Arm?
Which makes the diagnosis stronger. Take care to maintain the adjustment of the valve! Moreover, do not loose any parts! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
OK, I removed the oil pressure relief valve. A bunch of fluid cam out, no ball or spring came out so maybe they remained inside the unit. I reinstalled the stem after cleaning it a bit and refilled the reservoir. I found the three bleed valves at the actuator. Turned on the ignition switch so the pump comes on, loosened each valve 5-6 turns (but did not remove them from unit). No fluid came out (that is correct, I think). Tightened them again, and let the pump cycle a few more times. No difference. I need a Leonardo.
There is not much more you can do except throwing parts at it. Last option would be to test the solenoids for leakage. The solenoids have two stop positions: one is routing hydraulic fluid towards the actuator and the other is letting it return to the reservoir. The latter one is the rest position, where your unit is currently loosing pressure. The idea now is to actuate the solenoids one by one so that they reach their opposite stop position - where they hopefully stop leaking. Testing that without a diagnostic tester is quite a bit of an effort and chances are not very high that you will find the issue. But you can give it a try, if you like. Steps: 1. Disconnect wiring from all solenoids 2. Create an adapter that allows you to manually actuate a solenoid. One pin goes to ground and the other to +12V. 3. Plug in your adapter at EV3, but do not actuate the solenoid yet. 4. Connect a voltmeter to the pressure transducer like you did last time. 5. Turn on ignition and let the pump charge your hydraulic system. 6. Now actuate the solenoid for a few seconds (see below) monitoring the voltmeter. Ignore the first drop (which happens because the actuator is moving). Is there any change in the reading to what you saw last Tuesday? 7. Continue with EV4, EV5 and EVF (but not EV1 and EV2). Important notes: - Do not actuate a solenoid for too long! They are not designed for that. I do not have any figures here, but anything less than 10 sec. (EV3-5) or 5 sec. (EVF) should be fine, though. - Gearbox must be in neutral!
I don't recall but isn't amperage a concern like a ediff solenoid? Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
So let me give an update on this. I was not going to spend $4K on a Leonardo and while @JazP gave me a lot of good DIY information, it was more than what I really wanted to deal with for a 355F1 ... this time. So, I sent the car down to Issimi for a proper diagnosis. The master tech there has an SD2 and did the diagnosis along the same line of what JazP spoke to above. Essentially ... He was able to confirm that none of the solenoids was bad because he could activate each of them and the fluid was not flowing back into the reservoir. Checked! He was able to get the car to shift under SD2 direction if he could rock the car front to back a bit, so the actuator mechanism is functional. Checked. System pressure was never anywhere near what it is supposed to be. So the diagnosis is the F1 pump hydraulic section is dead. He noted that I had replaced just the "motor" part of the pump (the dry part) but not the hydraulic section of the pump (the wet part). He recommended the complete F1 pump upgrade kit from Ricambi that includes the entire pump assembly using a 360 pump. The parts are on order, and when I get the car back, I will update the thread finally. Lesson here is ... when the pump is dead, change the entire assembly using the Ricambi kit and do not change just the motor. Mom's advice still holds true "Buy quality, buy once."
After a couple months ... the car is back and it is as advertised. The 360 pump upgrade solves the problem by replacing the failed hydraulic pump head. I have to say, the cost of the parts and labor would just about pay for a Leonardo for one year.
