V-12 Engine into 308 Build, over on Grassroots

Since you have a weakness for dynos, let me direct you to this ad
https://www.ebay.com/itm/276627600406
That includes most of what you need to adapt to a pre-83 ferrari V12 and know that all proceeds will go to support a deserving 308

I've decided that as much as I love the idea of "every day is dyno day" its probably best I try to do my best normal person impression and go rent dyno time when I need it.

 

Super cool. I have the perfect room in the shop for it too. My shop is 5-10 minutes from Road Atlanta, lots of shops around here and exactly zero dynos of any kinds nearby, it's bizarre. What stopped me is it might pigeon-hole me into being just the local dyno guy and I'd be doing way too much of it, and some idiot would come to the shop and injure themselves doing who knows what maneuvering an engine or whatever. Nope nope nope

 

It sounds like you need to become the cranky dyno guy where people are afraid to step out of line in your shop. I knew a chassis builder like that, great guy to competent customers and while I spent very little time in his shop (he did some bending for me) I saw him throw 2 would be customers out. you could be that guy with you spiffy GoPower dyno

 

You just have to charge the "I don't really want to do it, but if you pay me this much ..." prices.

 

Do you have a Zelle account?

 

Me? I had to gooled it but I can and and would love it to go to a good home. Email me, [email protected]

 

Open wide and say "ahh" please
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I was remembering 1/16" off the motor mounts so that's what I did, just 1/16" of an inch before putting the engine in.
I bought 12 point flanged nuts for the headers, which made the install SOOO much easier as it was a 10mm wrench not a 13mm. The front set needs to go on before the engine is fully down...which led me installing one of the headers over the lifting strap. OK, jack it up, loosen the header, pull the strap, retighten, a 30 plus minute delay but the new nuts saved way more than that and now time to drop it down.....and the right side is sitting 1/4 may in the air....floating really. I screwed around for about 2 hours trying to figure out how the f.. a 700lb engine floats off the mounts and it was about 8 things I guess the last of which was a nut I lost fixing number 6 or 7 was found under a mount, it turned out that 1/16 of an inch I took off the mounts mattered. .... it was that kind or night.

Right now its sitting properly on the mounts but not bolted. The flywheel still clears the frame by a full 1/4". So the 1/16 I was remembering is what I thought needed to come off the bottom of the decklid and 3/16 needed to come off the mounts. In the morning, after a couple honey-dos I will cut another 0.150" off the mount and get it bolted in place. I'm hoping to be ready to run Sunday.

 

A whole 1/4” lol

 

At a certain point a removable sub frame just makes sense

 

Can you even imagine how good this thing it's going the handle once I lower the engine OVER 3/16"?


Me either....but I can imagine the deck lid fitting

 

I like to think I'm smart enough to have made a different choice if I'd known the effort it would take to lower the engine 3/16"....I'm probably not but I like to think I am. It's finally bolted, there is just shy of 1/8" clearance under the flywheel cover and I will no doubt enjoy the amazing handling improvements now that the engine is sitting so much lower Image Unavailable, Please Login



For sure I'll enjoy being able to close the deck lid. Image Unavailable, Please Login



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It's just going slow this time. I bought new CV boots but never installed them and the axles had to go in so an hour e that to change the boots. The puke is getting small though...4 hours left?

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I worked a solid 8 hours on what I thought was 4 hours of tasks and its at least on the ground

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but I still need to install the coils and the front WBO2 sensor then pull the left rear wheel and tie up wires. There was a bit of a stupid tax when I couldn't find a 3" long piece of hose and had to buy a $40 fits I don't know what radiator hose because they no longer stock generic stuff plus the time to go get it. Then again when I filled and primed the oil system but for whatever reason the 10 quarts I ordered didn't fill the 14qt system so back to the store....but it has good oil pressure cranking and its returning to the tank properly and nothing is on the floor (yet). And yes I filled the trans before I even put the drain plug in the engine.

This is a little funny, I completely forgot I changed the clutch master so when I bled it and the felt the force needed I thought I messed something up with the clutch. Oh wait, I switch from a .70 to ,75 master because it was so soft and I thought I'd rather have a faster pedal and it turns out a 15% force change is very noticeable. Its still a pretty light clutch so no worries but now I'm really excited to try to brakes that should now be about 25% less force with the new masters and it will be less force yet once I actually get the higher friction pads I picked out but were backordered.

I don't like to start fresh engines in the dark so tomorrow after work I'll finish up then Tuesday first thing after work I should be ready to try it. That's the plan anyway

 

This is a great build! I cant believe that V12 fit!

 

It's got to be angled just right going in, drivers side about 2" lower then passenger side, no more, no less.
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Very cool! Sorry if this has been asked, I have not read the complete thread. Are you running a standalone ECU? If so which one?

 

You should read it then

The ECU could be a thread all on its own, it's an enginelab it programmable not just tuneable. It runs pretty much everything now.
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I think its ready to make noise
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Not my best work on the wires but they are well away from the wheel so that will do for now.
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Luckily I decided to clean the plug wires as I found an issue with one. It looks like it got sliced and then burned through.
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And more luck I had leftover bits that I could find to make a replacement

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I think I should whine about oil a little. Sunday I ran to the auto parts store to buy some oil. I am running 20w50 for break-in which to me is a very normal thing I've used it in various car and motorcycles for 40+ years. At the parts store I very nearly gave up as 0w16 has replaced it on the shelves but just as I was about to leave I saw they had 6 bottles of 20w50 castrol classic high zinc in a clip on rack next to the main oil display like a little freak side show. 0w16, what has the world come to?...next thing you know they'll be trying to sell us electric cars Image Unavailable, Please Login

The OEM specified oil for this engine is 10w50. I don't recall ever seeing that in a store, but it is available to order so after break-in I may hunt some up.

 

as long as you don't have to worry about a cold temperature start, 20w50 will probably do fine?

 

Oh noes an oil thread!

I run this in all our old Mercedes and Ferrari engines.
https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/mos2-antifriction-sae-10w-40-p000207.html#2042

The new engines run what looks like straight water these days. Chasing that epa fuel economy.

 

Hadn't really caught the plug wire setup you've got. The resistance Bank to bank is going to be different just given the lead length. Have you noticed any effect on the kernal and flame energy? I.e. spark formation for burn, hot enough?
Thems some looong leads!
If you're interested I can dig up a bench setup to test high voltage amp draw and spark energy I made way back in my days of high energy physics lab work. Fairly simple setup with voltage dividers, amp clamp loop and a massive resistor.. Oh and a scope. High frequency high voltage is a funny beast.
It's a shame that non resistor plugs are such a PITA to find.

 

Yeah that sound right. The lighter the oil the faster it makes pressure and the larger the range XwY the wide the temperature range it maintains pressure in the target window. I tend to be a bit rough with engines so I like to make sure I have the higher end covered more than the warmup so when it says 10w50 and the store had 10w40 or 20w50, I always bought the 20w50. Now they don't have it and I'll need to order, so I guess I'll order the correct 10w50 which several brands sell and its not more bother anymore....I guess in a way they did me a favor.

And please no one take it as fighting words, its just what I like to do, not telling anyone else what they should do

 

Why make it so hard man? The coils are pretty hot, like 60k volt with a pretty long duration....it all seems to work fine as long as the insulation isn't cut.

Honestly I never even thought about it. The shortest wires are about what the shortest stock wires were and the longest about what the longest stock were. Now the rear bank all have about the same length and the front all about the same....so I guess if I think I notice a timing issue I can do a bank correction.
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