FERRARI 360 SPIDER SOFT TOP ROOF HOOD HYDRAULIC LIQUID RESERVOIR HOW TO TOP IT UP

So today was dry and I managed to look over the Ferrari roof.
First I checked all the cables were connected and correctly positioned especially over the two guide wheels at the back.
Everything looked good.
Once again I opened the roof and watched the central bar pull back correctly into position to allow roof to fold correctly.
As it went down into the storage area I gave it a little hand and I dropped down perfectly and cover closed over.
I did this 4-5 times and now it's working perfectly every time unassisted.
So I think it's probably due to aging elastics and the fact that I hadn't put roof down for a month or so.
I will probably look at replacing the elastics or getting a company to do it for me.
At least I know the fluid level is all correct and that nothing is broken in roof for now.

 

Scott,

Nearly 20 years since you posted this thread and today, just now, I followed the detailed (and excellent) instructions and my top is now fully functional. It's very fulfilling being able to work on your own vehicle! I'm telling the wife that a shop would have claimed 2.5 hours + parts (fluid) and likely charge about $650 out the door.

I accidently over-filled but then was able to simply pour some out to bring it to the top of the level. In the future, I may try to just roll with a 5mm stubby and a long tube rather than pull the whole assembly out but still, the pics were priceless, thanks!

 

If your reservoir needed filling, it's very likely you have one or more hydraulic rams leaking. The typical culprits are the locking ram in the center front or the secondary cylinders which are about shoulder position on both sides in the top. Check them today for leaks. The front locking ram will leak hydraulic fluid all over your nice leather and carpet and take a year or more for the smell to go away. The secondary cylinders are sneakier and will just drip down the frame and into the tub that holds the top. Check the secondarys by placing your finger behind the ram and feel for an oil slick. You may have to remove the cover to access the locking ram up front.

The capote doesn't use any hydraulic fluid so in theory, the tank shouldn't ever require filling. You have a leak. Now you have to find it.

 

A few years ago I spent $4k at a local shop and they supposedly went through the whole system but I don't doubt there is a leak: the only thing better than taking a lot of money for performing a service is taking a lot of money and not doing a complete job.

My understanding is that each time the top cycles, a bit of fluid is used as the seal can't entirely stop the fluid from lubricating the rod.....and so a gradual fluid use is acceptable. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't. Going forward, I intend on using a 5mm stubby allen wrench and a syringe injection to add fluid when necessary. I honestly don't want the headache and time/labor/expense of trying to find any leak. None are apparent so I'll just keep an eye on it, thanks for the advice though!!

 

If you cycled your top 50 times a day for 10 years, you might see some loss of fluid. Doing it once or twice a month isn't going to use a noticeable amount of hydraulic fluid. If you needed to top up your tank, you have a leak. It's likely the secondary cylinders as they drain back into the tub of the capote and out the drain hole in the bottom of the tub. You can check this easily by putting your finger behind the secondary rams and feel for an oil slick. If it's there, it's time to rebuild.

 

Did Anyone Figure Out If The Top Should Be Up Or Down When Doing This Process?

 

From the WSM: (N1.06)
The system is self-draining. After replacing a piston or after topping up, it is always best to perform
several complete soft top opening/closing stages to allow the system to expel any air that may have
entered the circuit.
Then check the oil level in the hydraulic unit tank, as follows.
• Remove the RH lining on the door’s rear pillar ( M 3.04).
• With the soft top gathered in its housing bay, the level should be at the mid-point on the indicator
found on the tank. The arrows appearing along the perimeter of the circular indicator represent the
“MIN” and “MAX” levels of the oil in the tank.
• If the level is insufficient, top up with the prescribed oil ( A 1.02), taken from a new
container.
• Unscrew and remove the screw (1) from the hydraulic block over the tank and using an oil gun,
pour the oil through this hole up to the correct level.
• Re-fit the screw (1) and have the top complete several soft top opening and closing stages in
order to drain the system. Check the level again.
• Refit the RH lining on the door’s rear pillar ( M 3.04).

. . . . .

If you need to fill your reservoir, it's very likely you have a leak. Look for oil slicks by the rams. If your front locking ram is leaking, you're in for a nice smelly mess. Catching that one early would be well worth it.

 

Thank You For The Reply...When I Closed My Top At End Of Season Last Year I Saw A Little White Smoke From The Passenger Side Of The Engine Bay And Top Got Stuck...I Re Opened It Then Tried To Close It Again...It Closed Fine...I Looked In That Area And Saw No Fluid Leaking...Plan On Topping Off As Its Almost Spring And Checking Again For Leaks...Hopefully Can Put Off Till Next Year As Ill Be Due For A Belt Service...

 

Probably either one of the main rams or the ones that lift the lid.

 

Didn’t see a reply to this one. I’ve got exactly these symptoms. Fluid level looks fine.

Any one else have a similar experience, and know what the cause was

 

Looks like my hydraulic pump has given out completely. I want to send it in to Top Hydraulics to be rebuilt. It looks like it should be able to come out of the car without removing the whole top assembly. Anyone had any experience at this? I guess the Oil in the line would need to be blead out somehow before disconnecting them.

 

What's it not doing (or doing)? Not-making noises? Making (unusual) noises?

 

Thanks for your quick response! The operation of the top started blowing the fuse every once in a while, last fall. This summer it started to become more frequent. I live in the upper Midwest, so the car is stored from October to June. The fluid is at the correct level, center or the circle when stowed. Today The top went about half way up and stopped. I went to replace the fuse as usual but this time the fuse wasn't blown. Checked the relay and it tested OK. Could hear it click when the top switch was activated. No movement of the top either up or down. No sound from the pump at all. I'm guessing the motor has burned out. What do you think?

 

Quite possibly.

How did you check the relay? Did you apply a voltage to pins 85 & 86 and check for continuity on pins 30 & 87? Relay contacts do burn out (even if you can hear the clicking sound).

 

I checked on 85 and 86 and got a reading of 78 on the multimeter. I did not apply voltage to test the 87 and 30, but I guessed if it clicked the coil was working. Relays are cheap. Maybe Ill just try swapping that one out before I go any further.

 

Sounds good. I was going to suggest that, but couldn't find a number in the parts manual. Is there a Bosch or other manufacturer's part number on the relay?

 

OK, local auto part stores got the relay in, but it was always larger in size compared to this one. It wouldn't fit into the relay holder. One of the stores had a relay tester and the relay tested as good. Next, I need to check for faults in the wiring which could be why the fuses were blowing anyway. But my guess is a dying pump was the cause of blowing the fuses.

 

Hi John, I've read your blog and posts quite number of times. Had my heat exchanger fail a few months ago too. Just wondering is there a thread somewhere detailing the secondary cylinder replacement? Cheers, Ray

 

Was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. I started having problems with my top few weeks ago when i tried to put the roof down. I came across this thread and came to conclusion the fluid was low. I top it up and soon after quickly came to the realization that I should have down that with the roof in the down position and therefore it was over filled. I drained some of the fluid and then was able manually put the top down and then fill the oil to the correct position. I, however am still have issues with it. When I try to close the roof the procedure stops at the point the roof should come out of its storage compartment. I have manually opened and closed the roof to try to get any air of of the system. When I have the roof up/closed and try to open it, it also stops and the point when the roof should flip black and go into the storage compartment. Any input would be great. Here is a video of my trying to put the roof up.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7_mCtaN3ek4

 

Just a guess, but the top won't start pulling out of the capote tub until the microswitch on the hinge for the capote lid is triggered. Try moving the capote lid up manually just a bit and if the process continues, it's likely the microswitch on the hinge. Here's a video showing how the hinge switch is actuated.



In addition, if you had to add fluid, you have a leak in one or more of the rams. Check behind the secondary cylinders (shoulder position in the top on both sides) for oil. If you feel a slick behind the ram, your cylinders need rebuilding. Also check that the locking ram (in the front of the top) that drives the fork that latches the top, isn't leaking that one is usually the first to go.

 

The sensors (microswitches) involved in the opening and closing of the roof are sometimes shared. If you suspect a switch issue (and not a hydraulic or elastic issue), the only real way to diagnose the problem is to use a scanner which tells you what the switches are doing, then take a video of the scanner when you try to operate the roof and post it here. Unfortunately, the list of switches is quite long, so you may have to take several videos to catch all the switch positions. You'd probably need to take 4 videos (two for up, two for down).

We use this diagnostic chart to figure out what's going on (as it tells us what position each switch should be in at various stages of roof opening/closing:

 

Aloha again friends. Well, My Hydraulic pump for the roof has stopped working altogether now. Fuses and relay are good, but pump doesn't run at all. I want to take it out and send it in to be rebuilt. Looks like it can be removed from the car easily enough, but I've run into a small problem I hope someone here can help me with. I need to disconnect the electrical wires that run to the six valves, but I'm not sure how they come off. Looks like the top one could stay on but the rest need to be disconnected. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Did you jumper the relay to prove the pump wasn't working? There have been so many roof problems recently, I'm losing track of who did what

Not sure if this will help with the plug removal...

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Any specialist in the miami that anyone can recommend on addressing the roof open and close functions for the 360 spider?

since I topped off the oil the two actuators sprung a leak. I did use the noted Mercedes oil for the topup however I have seen others use Che 202 and the other Che oil … I was under the assumption maybe this fluid is not viscus enough and leaks more often?

which is the best fluid?

 

Yes, on the relay. I tried pushing that tab in the picture in, but from the picture it looks like they are prying the other side out. I'll try that. Thank you.