V-12 Engine into 308 Build, over on Grassroots

I kind of hesitate to post this because its what I was told NOT to do, but I think it's better now.

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Bad azz

 

Looks cool

 

Gasp! Scandalous!

 

Your garage is sending my OCD into overdrive. Hahahaha!

 

All that matters is... That you like it.

 

The deck lid fits....as if there was ever any doubt
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And the tire clearance to the ducts looks pretty good
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Ad the multiMAP is repaired as only anon-electronic person could do it...wires everywhere, glue one board to the other then plasti Dip the whole thing
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I think I'm about of of excuses not to try starting it again....wait, getting dark :lol:

 

Mine too....but I have completing issues....everything must be in its place vs the project must be complete and nothing can be picked up until it is....must be complete is winning.

 

Today it started without ether....not quickly but it started and ran well enough that I had to go into the idle settings and pull a little more timing out than I was using.... then it started running bad, like really bad cylinders coming and going..... and why is the fuel pressure reading 5psi? Doh! its out of gas. Its been through 10 gallons since the engine went back in I think.

Off to the gas station, 5 more gals in, a few tweaks to the start up conditions and it started much quicker, still not right but not horrible. Back to idle, free reving said pull some fuel which I did...free reved better. Took it around the block and it felt pretty good, the new side airfilter has a pronounced sucking sound in my left ear....it reved up smoothly, I pushed it to about 50kPa in first and 65kPa is second so right where the old burnout video was and nothing but grip from the new tires. 5000 rpm in 2nd is just about exactly 50mph just like the math said it should be. The rear axle sensor was cutting in and out which was unexpected so it should be fine once I add the zener and pull-down. From 55 to turn into my neighborhood I did notice the force I needed to use on the brake pedal, they work fine but I need to make getting the higher friction pads a priority.

Back into the driveway with no weirdness or issues made me think it not only needed a bath it deserved one. After the wash it restarted, I had to rev it a little (ok, 3kish) to get all the cylinders lit but it started and drove back into the garage so I now the plugs weren't so oiled the wouildn't spark and I didn't notice it smoking at all. I'm calling today a win.
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And ever cleaned its bay
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Yes!

 

Hopefully it will restart today and I can try a longer drive maybe. I forgot to mention the front antidive seemed to be doing its thing. I cranked up the rebound adjustment to full as that is the only adjuster I have and these shocks were not valved for the springs I now have, anyway, the car felt a lot better power/brakes on/off but I can't be sure how much is the antidive and how much is the shocks but the net is good on first impression.

Also when it was running a couple weeks ago I added a table for cold to warm throttle idle position that seems to be doing its job nicely. I do have an idle rpm control setup I have not tested....so far I'm just using a simple throttle position set point and as long as it works as it has been I guess I'll stick with it. I did try to pay attention to where the throttle wants to be during cranking, I have the ability to set that in the ecu so I don't need to touch the pedal, I may try that today but I suspect the way I wrote it it will close too fast, I'll play with it though as a consistent throttle position should make getting the fuel right for good starts easier.

I just noticed in the log the front brake pres sensor is no longer reading, I need to look at that and also get the rear axle speed sensor sorted. Lots to do.

 

FANTASTIC that you can now focus on tuning a functional engine rather than trying to get an engine to function.

 

It started again from full cold not horribly. I made a few more tweaks so hopefully next time is better. I pushed in 1st to about 6k and 65kPa MAP, then second to 7k and 85-90kPA MAP nothing but acceleration and grip. It feels amazing and I'm feeling like its ready for a real drive.....but I need to locate registration and proof of insurance before I go blasting around, after all these attempts I was kind of assuming I wouldn't need it. I looked a bit but its feeling like I need to get duplicates. So I'll work on getting it starting better and other at home details for now.

 

Looking at the log this morning I realized I have mph, rpm and time so quick math later at 84kPA MAP and 5000rpm it is making at least 296hp, 311ft-lbs at the wheels. I say at least because the pull was an slight up hill grade that I don't have a good way to account for yet. Dynomation says at WOT it should be 432hp/454ftlb crank , but if I change the barometer to 84kPa it drops to 366hp/384ft-lbs crank. Converting to wheel I should expect about 300hp/314ft-lbs...pretty frikin close to what the log says I have so its making pretty near exactly what its supposed to be making, at least its is at 5k rpm...now I just need to get brave enough to try the same thing at 9k Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Need more vids Mark! So glad it's getting out and about. YAY

 

I was hoping to make a proper driving vid but I really want all the correct paperwork in the car shifting at 9k....its already pretty loud at 5k and 9k is no doubt much louder ad in 2nd that's about 90mhp so I really want the paperwork in order just in case. Soon.

 

A little more from the log and math

At 5krpm, 84kPa MAP is 61% throttle,....big TBs

It was 0.72g acceleration. WOT at 7k peak torque I guess it would be about 1g in 2nd, probably 1.2g limit of traction in 1st....what a difference these tires made

 

Here is today's cold start


Then a little drive. At about 2:40 I learn that the new 295 A052 tires are still no match for 1st gear and also that the 9k rev limiter works as it should


I cut it into a short for those that get bored easily
https://youtube.com/shorts/F7cemj3oyik?feature=share

 

I went in to the log from the burnout and added a virtual channel for the rear wheel speed (I don't have the sensor working but I do have rpm and I know it was 1st gear) and then made a plot with interesting stuff on it. It looks like the tire came loose at about 3700rpm and 88kPa. DM6 says its making 260hp/360ft-lb at that point. That means 1st gear should be fine as long as I keep the engine below 2500rpm. Then if I'm doing the math right, 2nd gear should hold about 523ft-lb which should be 4 ft-lbs more than the engine can make.

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Cutting it close there

 

LOL, yes. This thing is funny because it feels so civilized until it doesn't....then it's just brutal. I tried to make sure the tach was in frame to try to give a sense of it...it is 0.55sec from the time I hit the throttle at 3700rpm until its at the 9k rev limiter....0.55 sec....in gear. It's hard to comprehend until well after it's happened.

But it also pulls away smooth and nice, cruises around the neighborhood at 1500-2k in 2nd or 3rd no problem attracting no bad attention. I'm pretty happy with it, at least at the moment.

 

This is just awesome news! Congratulations!

 

Sounds like you just need to use 2nd gear as first gear now. I've driven enough Diablo's to know first gear in one of those is good to about 60-65mph, works just fine. Grunt a plenty

 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-ferrari-308-gts-32/

 

If I keep the 9k redline, 1st is 60, 2nd is 87
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