1994 348 spider ECU error code 1411

Injection valve 1 or 5 depending on what ECU you looking at. Apparently rereading your post again you are looking at the 5-8 ECU. So the code is for injection valve on number 5.

 

Maybe replacing the fuel pressure regulator you dislodged some debris that hung up the injector?

 

lucas fuel system cleaner works like magic to get rid of contaminants or stabilize blended or bad gas in my 355.

 

If you haven’t upgraded your 348 original injectors to a newer style with 4 holes this would be a good opportunity. This has got to be one of the easiest, cheapest and most worthwhile upgrades for a 348. This guy sells cleaned, matched injector sets ready to go.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-92-Ferrari-348-TS-3-4L-V8-Genuine-Bosch-Direct-Replacement-Fuel-Injectors/192480292336?epid=2233892206&hash=item2cd0b82df0:g:fQMAAOSwcUBYGy5u&vxp=mtr

 

Hello, i have similar issue (problem of rpm, vibrations, and so on) and i found similar codes: 1411 1412 1413 1414...
Did yous olve your problem?

 

Those codes are for all 4 injectors on the right bank. Perhaps an injector power issue?

Power comes from relay L in the passenger footwell. But L also powers the Check Engine light, the thermocouple ECU, the MAF and a few other items. Can you check power is going to the right MAF (pin 5). I assume that is easiest component to get to.

 

Hello Qavion, those error codes are on bank 5-8 by me also left/driver side ☺️

I swapped ecu today and if it has no effect, will swap relays tomorrow ... If it's the problem, then error code should then appear on bank 1-4

 

oops.. I forgot that the codes in the WSM only list 1~4, but if you are interrogating the left bank ECU, then you have to assume 5~8.

Do both your CHECK ENG lights come on at start up? That's probably the simplest way of checking that the left bank relay (D) is operating (at least on a USA car)

 

Hello,
my car is an european model so basically the check engine lights were not built in. I added them to be able to get the error codes.
So both engine light comes on at startup, then goes off.
And only 5-8 check engine light comes on when i have those strange problems... What is really strange is that sometimes i can drive a whole hour without any trouble, then i stop for one minute, then start the car again and the trouble begins.
At first i can only notice my rpm needle jumps a little bit, then there are engine misfires, vibrations, exhaust explosions and my needle can jump from 4000rpm to 9000rpm then come back to normal and so on.

 

Sounds like your left bank crank sensor or crank sensor wiring is misbehaving (or the LH ECU). The crank sensor/ECU on the left side is responsible for tacho indications (as well as timing).

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Inspect the sensor and wiring marked in red... and check the gap between the sensor and the crank pulley teeth.

 

problem is, I already changed them for new and it had no real impact.
But indeed, i ordered them once more last week. I expect to get them next week.
But before changing them, i was thinking about swapping them. If indeed this sensor is responsible, my problem would then change bank, right?

 

Hmmm... still could be the wiring to the sensors or an ECU issue. You could try interchanging them, I guess, if it's not too difficult.

Did you check the gaps were within tolerance?

 

As the ECU is throwing injector codes, I would still follow that line of investigation (also).

How hard are the injector plugs to get to on the 348? Can you check them for 12 volts with the key on? Unfortunately, your issue is intermittent, so the voltage may be ok with a cold engine.

 

The gaps are crucial to be the close to same and both within tolerance. There is a cam position sensor as well on the 1-4 bank. The "needle can jump from 4000rpm to 9000rpm then come back to normal and so on". None of the items crank sensors, cam sensors, O2 sensors cause that that am aware of at least, almost seems like some signal loss somewhere. I'd try swapping engine ecu's from side to side and see if the problem moves to the other bank.

 

Hello, 10 days ago i switched ecu. I was hoping the error would then change of bank side (or not) and process to other tests.
However... Since then... I had absolutely no more trouble and i drove like everyday just to recreate the troubles and nothing happened !
This car is somewhat haunted

 

This suggests that there was a poor contact in one (or more) of the pins in the ECU connectors. Unplugging and plugging back the connectors probably wiped the corrosion off and the contacts are good again (for some time).

It is also good to, from time to time, also disconnect and reconnect other connectors like on the MAFs, the TPSs, the ICVs etc. Same applies to the relays and fuses.

 

Well 21 days later, car still drives without any trouble