So I looked one more time at the two cables. The longer one without any metal flanges at both ends was fine. The shorter one (with metal flanges at both ends) was completely seized !! (screwdriver points to the seized cable ends) So that was the problem it seems ... Now why would one cable seize completely, and the other one not at all ? They look almost identical ? Heat ?? . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
So it looks like the cable which goes to the door handle had seized. As I think someone mentioned before, the cables aren't lubricated at the factory, so they are an accident waiting to happen. Interesting. Thanks for the photos and follow-up. I've never seen the insides of the latch/lock assemblies. It's also good to know there are two microswitches in there. I thought someone said there was only one. One switch (11N) is for door open indication (on the dash), F1 pump control and also inputs into the Window ECU. The other switch must be for feedback to the Window ECU regarding the position of the lock motor-actuator. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks like this is the microswitch assignment: Image Unavailable, Please Login When the lock motor spins, the plastic gears move the odd-shaped metal lever/cam thingy, hitting the upper microswitch (?) I'm not sure what hits the lower microswitch.
The bottom microswitch senses if the (big black, on the other side) door lock is rotated into lock position ... There is a small white plastic arm that runs on the big lock outer edge ... The top microswitch senses the position of that top metal flange, and thus if the door is in "lock" position or not ? The door mechanism box is really hard to open, the three screws are just the beginning, there are other press-fit plastic parts that break easily if you try to open the lock box. All plastic seems good quality, not brittle at all, very solid. The shorter cable that was corroded and seized ... it is not the cable itself - which is good quality and shows no sign of corrosion - it is the outer long sleeve which inside has a metal coil that on mine rusted. I can clearly see signs of rust now. It might have been humidity, coming from the outer door handle, maybe just by washing the car ? . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I assume you mean the black latch/hook? That's a pity. So it may not be possible to carry out repairs on the internals without damaging other parts (like motor repacement) if Ferrari stocks start to diminish. Thanks for the additional photos. I can see how the lock actuator mechanism stops the movement of certain parts. The last photo appears to show the mechanism in the locked position.
By the way, with the lock in the position shown in the last photo, do you get continuity (zero ohms) between pin 1 and pin 2 of the 4 pin connector? Pins 3 & 4 should be the motor wires.
Just getting a new OEM replacement (complete with cables) seems the best path, to me ! Both Scuderia and Ricambi carry the original, new out of the box OEM part ! Fiat part B792 !! They are $275 brand new, it's a standard Fiat / Lancia part so perhaps they made millions of them ??
I wouldn't use "Fiat B792" as a search phrase on Google... it brings up lots of different-looking locks. I couldn't find any which looked like the Ferrari item. This Lancia Dedra looks quite similar https://www.megaparts.eu/en/product/1711485064 but N/A
I was - exclusively - thinking in terms of parts availability ... Maybe I will get a driver's side complete lock assembly just in case ... Yesterday at the Ferrari service in NB (one of the largest in the world) the technician working on a Testarossa told me older cars sit there for weeks because they can't get parts. And, no not the original ones, any parts that will fit. If the customer brings in a part that fits, they will install it, if nothing else can be found.
I recently replaced my outer door cable. The door functioned great for about 5 open and closes. Now the door is stuck shut and will not open from the inside or out. Next, i got an air bladder and took a look inside and it looks like everything functions as it should but will not open. With a hangar i can move the release up and down still will not open. Any ideas? Thanks
My thought is that if the passenger side froze and it cost >$2k to replace and a loss of driving, don't just buy one; lube it and install it while the door is operational. Then lube the one you took out and keep that as a spare. That's what I did when my passenger side froze. I replaced both. Then later on I bought a spare passenger side, so I have one of each as a spare
Strange. Sounds like the lock assembly is mechanically broken. I assume you are manipulating on the right piece with your hanger? Image Unavailable, Please Login