It is not overly difficult to R&R the window regulators. There are some trick that need to be known to prevent massive frustration. First, drop the window 1 to 2 inches so that you have access to all the bolts. Two, diagram out the cable path before disassembling anything. Third, take particular attention the number of windings on the spool. Note how many top and bottom windings. Four, set the windings up on the bench. There are many ways to hold the cables in place. Some use zip ties other rubber bands. I just use a block of foam. The key is to keep all the windings in place while inserting the motor. My experience, clean fresh grease is the difference between a window that goes up and down and one that does not. Fresh grease won't help a window go up and down any faster.
I bought the boosters which are actually just a couple of overpriced diodes but they do shorten the electrical path by about half. You should also clean the switches with Deox. They sat in the toolbox until the day came that my driver's side window no longer functioned so I tackled that one and it was a less than pleasurable experience. My passenger side window still functions at a snails pace so I haven't bothered to fix it yet but I think I will soon as it has gotten to really old man snail's pace. The boosters do work, or at least it did on my driver's side but again, pretty pricy for a couple of epoxy embedded diodes. You could easily fabricate a pair from components yourself.
The best is to measure voltage at motor. One small tip is to lightly grease the window felt track if that feels binding
I'm not able to understand why the original factory speed of the windows is not acceptable. Mine after cleaning out old grease take about 5 to 6 seconds!!!!!!
Yeah, AFTER you fix it. That's what the goal here is, getting that 5-6 seconds back - by fixing what is "broken"
I'm taking a video while doing my passenger side. Cleaning out the old grease, cleaning all the cabling and pulleys, and replacing with new grease didn't seem to affect the window speed AT ALL on the driver's side. If it was faster I sure couldn't tell. Now when I put the relays in it definitely is faster no question. I wound up buying accelerators from here: http://rodneydickman.com/product_info.php?products_id=91 The reason? Four relays (you'll need four of them) cost about 60 bucks on Amazon. If you want to buy Bosch... which I did because I didn't want to have to take these things apart again or want to remove the door panel in 6 months when the cheaper relay took a dump. I had wiring, crimps, etc. but if you don't have that then 119 bucks is very reasonable. Plus you're going to have to come up with a solution to waterproof it. I'm going to record the speed of the passenger window without the accelerator and then with. Not sure if the clean/re-grease will help the passenger side or not but my guess is... not much... but who knows maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised
It’s not just a matter of cleaning out the old hardened grease, it’s also making sure you’re getting full 12 volts which what the relay will do and importantly, making sure you also have very good clean ground.
I did this job in the past year. I replaced the cables too, which meant hours of trial and error to get the right length and reassemble that mechanism. Complete PITA! I'm no electrical engineer, but as I've been futzing with my GT4, it seems like the old wiring simply means more resistance. My windows now work well enough, but if I thought the relay solution made the most sense, assuming I'd run fresh wiring from the power source. Good on ya for getting the job done!!
Well I didn't run a new power wire. If my passenger window doesn't improve fairly dramatically (right now it barely goes up and down) then I'll probably do the power wire with the relays. Just know that if you ARE going to do the power wire version there's more to it than two relays. The two relays are also different to the "ground relay" solution which is what the "accelerators" use. They are 5-prong not 4-prong and a different part number.
