1988 3.2 Timing Belt Change (More) Questions

Going to do my timing belts/bearings shortly, and after reading through all the video and threads, it would be helpful to clarify a couple of relatively trivial things.

1. Is it typical to leave the spark plugs in so the crank is less likely to move while doing the procedure, or plugs out so rotating the engine to find the TDC and later to complete the belt tensioning by rotating the crank is easier? I have seen video where the plugs are in, and out, so maybe it does not really matter, depends on what broader service is being done?

2. Some people start the engine after the belts are installed, without the alternator, water pump etc. connected presumably to make sure all is in order before bolting things back together. Would not a few manual crank rotaations suffice to ensure everything is lined up and rotating freely? I get the greater certainty check aspect, but I have some other things on the car I am doing and starting it up to do this check is not as efficient for my overall project. Do the experts test start as a normal part of the task?

3. On my 3.2 with the Sanden AC compresor, does one take the a/c bracket bolts on the timing belt cover off, or the compresor off the brackets first and then the bracket off the cover? It looks like the unit could be removed out of the way by just removing the three bolts affixing the bracket to the timing cover with the compresor still attached to that bracket? Seems trivial, but the bolts for the compresor to the bracket are somewhat blocked in my unit by R134 adapters to the hose ports.

Thank you for any perspectives from those who have done this before. I may add to this thread as I proceed and find out "while I am in there".

 

Ha! I did purchase the Verell cam locks some time ago anticipating I would eventually do the belts on my own.. Does look like the same material as a hockey puck!

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Perfect, thanks you.

 

1988 Mondial 3.2 Cab CH88

While, the Verell Cam locks are nicely made, but the bolt is too long and precludes removal and replacement of the tensioner assembly, it gets in the way of one of the studs/nuts.

So I took them off, and proceeded to do the job without the cam locks. I had the TDC (flywheel letter and line markings on my CH88 are different than any others in various threads so had to use some judgement as to the line between some very faint letters) and the rear bank cam marks lined up through the oil fill hole, and there are also the arrow brackets on each bank that line up with a small groove on the cams. So it is fairly clear when everything is properly lined up.

The belt was not so easy to install, even though I had marked the old belt (and used some paint marks left by a prior installer on the upper and lower cam gears). I don't think this would have worked with the locks in place, the cams had to be moved ever so slightly to get the proper teeth all lined up. But without locks, the cams jumped off their set point, and I had to turn them back to their set points. Not so easy even with the binder clips holding the belts to keep all this in place while getting the tensioner/bearing levered back on as per the Bell Bloke video.

I can see how without everything marked up one could quite easily install with one cog off from where it should be.

This was very nerve wracking for me as a first time changer. But everything rotates as it should, the various marks all line up, after a number of test rotations, and I set the tensioner using the 20 degrees past TDC, its seems about right. So should be good to go.

I need a break before putting everything else back together. That Sanden AC came off with its mounting bracket attached but was still a bit fussy to remove and I need to get all that back on.

Also saw a weep at the water pump, it lasted 6 years. So "while in there" I replaced that with an OEM rebuild that I had in my spares.

 

The Sanden ac compressor removes at the brackets attached to the timing cover, the compressor to the bracket itself need not be removed (and one removes the wire connection plug connector, and ground wire which is attached to the dip stick mount to the timing cover). The intake air duct, cooling hose and such need to be removed to have the room to get that unit removed, with the ac coolant lines remaining attached, it can be maneauvered out and set on the ground. It is tight as the unit has to be pulled out to clear the studs which the bracketed unit mounts on, the the ac hose/connectors on the compressor barely clear one of the frame tubes.