Ferrari 488 Window Switch Replacement! Help!

First, it ain't easy. The piece that breaks is the mounting point (cradle) on the switch itself. Ferrari doesn't sell that piece separately. The part is super delicate and typically breaks with little to no effort. To remove your rocker switch you have to pry it off from he top - there has to be a procedure that doesn't risk them breaking, but have searched all over and haven't been able to find it, and its not self evident.

In fact, it must be a common problem. China sells the cradle that the switches 'click' into from the top, The aftermarket parts don't really fit. Let me qualify that - it fits, but its oversized on its pivot (window up/down) mounting and so it is really stiff at best or gets stuck.

Without knowing what your issue is, Im going to guess its the cradle and not the silver switches or the electrical function. which means you would need to order part #86152700. it's the full electrics and cradle mounts. You can take a shot at the aftermarket cradle, but I can tell you from experience, order a few to experiment with because you will have to play with them to get them to work correctly. And, if you have even a mild form of OCD like I do, it will never work like OEM so you will end up doing what I am; replacing the switch with the Ferrari OEM unit.

My window switch housing has the 'sticky button' feel to it so I ordered the carbon version to replace it (part #86884000). I have the new switch unit and will doing the job via DIY in a few weeks and might take a shot at documenting it if I find a bulletproof way to remove/replace the switches. I have a Spider so my switch removal anxiety is DOUBLE - will plan on practicing on the window switches because I have a replacement on hand. Do not have the same luxury for the roof/rear glass switches.

Keep in mind, none of this was designed with the idea that someone was going to remove it a bunch of times. There is a lot of plastic and carbon that doesnt like screws being removed/installed multiple times. So if you can do this once and get it right, you're winning.
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Removing the tunnel is pretty easy (easiest part of the switch replacement). There are videos on the 458 tunnel removal which are very similar.

The difference AFAIK are 2 mounting bolts under the middle of the gear selector bridge, and two screws at the back of the rear storage compartment. The flat area between your window switch housing and the rear storage will pull up - its mounted by snap in connectors. The storage area under the bridge will also remove the same way, I can't recall if it has mounting snap downs or not. Its an easy removal. I think total count is 10 mounting bolts and the 2 screws in the compartment area.

From there its a matter of unplugging the wiring etc. There are two pugs at the storage compartment (USB and aux power) and then switch wiring, gear wiring, and finally a hidden start button at the front of the cup holders. Like I mentioned in the previous post, the tricky part that there are no videos or instructions that I could find, is the switch removal/install itself that will be the hardest part of what you are about to do.

 

Switches are similar to the f12. And plastic and they break easy. The tabs.

I had ordered extra and had dealer replace already once. One of The tab in the tunnel actually broke, not the switch you lift and push. I replaced that too before..

The fix is - buy gorilla glue gel. And put it on the switch in center and the part. I placed it and held it in place til it dries.

it has not broken off or got loose since and you have nothing to lose as that part would be replaced anyways.

I daily drive my f12 and open the window quite often. 50k miles so far. Also had dealer maintenance and service and has not been an issue either.


Maybe try that first before looking to dismantle or send to dealer to fix.

 

Not sure I understand this fix without dismantling to access. How do you glue and hold in place till it dries and not access the part itself?

This part is not accessible and I think its the part you are referring to - and if it breaks, typically the broken piece is going even further into the tunnel (if you are lucky enough to find it).
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Yes that part one of the tab broke. So your actual switch you pull and push is not broken. I put gorilla super glue GEL. Not the runny type. And I put it on remaining tops and sides /contact points and the back of switch. I pushed back and held firmly the switch until it dried.


I didn’t take the center tunnel apart at all...


I believe the black part still sticks out a little from console, but depends where it broke. Mine broke on one of the protruding 4 wall tabs.. the part seems identical to f12 switch. The actual switch snaps into the black part. It’s been 2/3 years since it broke and still has n. Before I had to be gentle with it and would break every year or other year.

 

I have a question about the hidden start button by cupholder. I noticed it under the felt key hold. What is it actually used for and how do you use it? When fob is t recognized?

 

Let me read this back the way I understand it so Im sure I get it.

The rocker part of the switch broke. The fix you did was crazy glue the silver up/down (silver) part against the remaining portion of the rocker and essentially use the remaining portion of the set up to make it work with an appropriate amount of 'reinforcement' glue? Its actually pretty simple/brilliant if it works! For me, the part I'd worry about is overshooting the amount of glue and finding yourself worse off than before. It is for sure the simplest version of a fix if it works.

Let's all agree that the idea that the rocker portion cant be purchased by itself is pretty lame of Ferrari. Literally so common that China decided to build the replacement piece!

 

yeah, its for a failing primary start button or in the event your key fob battery fails you.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/i-found-a-secret-start-button-in-my-2018-ferrari-488-spider-does-anybody-know-thy-its-there.667587/

 

Correct. That’s why I bought the gorilla glue gel.. it doesn’t leak and run down. It stays in place and won’t make a mess. Almost like a silicone like consistency. I think I used a wooden popsicle stick to apply.
It worked and has not come off.

either way the black piece was shot and correct if you wanted to replace. It’s the whole assembly which was truly unnecessary. You have no loss other than the face switch you can easily buy. L or R.