Get brackets from a 3.2 Mondial with a 508. I used them in my 328. It was a slam dunk and way better than that conversion crap being sold.
FWIW Sanden states the SD7H15 is for CW only. The SD508 now called SD5H14 is for either CW or CCW. Since the compressor position used in the Ferrari 308/328is mounted in reverse, the SD5H14 is the only option for the 308GTSi of these two units. The (8) reference in the SD508 is for 8 ci the (14) reference in the SD5H14 is for 140 cc…….
"pulls about 20 amps max" WOW!!! 20 amps at 12 volts is only 240 Watts. That's extremely small for an ac compressor and would convert, in typical AC capacity terms to less than 2500 BTU. Car air conditioners are typically 10k BTU at bare minimum. It sounds great but I admit I think it's impossible for a 240 watt compressor to have sufficient capacity to cool a 3x8 cabin. But I'll be very pleased to find I'm wrong and, if so, I'd buy/install one in a heartbeat. Let us know as the project progresses!!!
I used the GTCP kit and converted the car over to R134. The AC works so well it will freeze you right out of the car. I have no interest in deleting the AC, I use it most every time I drive the car.
I agree with needing/using the AC a lot. I would never remove it. I had the stock system working quite well with DuraCool refrigerant but the original hoses have finally started leaking refrigerant so I need to rework the entire system. I'd be happy to install an electric compressor if it is actually workable in a 3x8. But as I said in a previous post, it's hard for me to believe an E compressor could handle the load within the car's elec system capability. FWIW A typical car HP drain to run an AC compressor is a minimum of 2 HP and up to 10+ HP for a large vehicle. 2HP is around 1400 watts. 1400 watts at 12 volts is 116 Amps!!!!
the system uses a controller to make a A/C signal from D/C voltage because of that the controller does not need to pull a lot of amps the D/C motors for the cab and cond. fans pull most of the amps in the system. most other systems use D/C brush motors that pull way more amps
Sounds good! Please let us know how it goes! Definitely interested in replacing the engine-driven Sanden which replaced my engine-driven York!
I think you are missing some information that is leading you astray. I find it inconceivable that a compressor consuming 20A at 12vdc can result in any significant amount of cooling in an automotive application. Perhaps for a mini under counter refridgerator...
this the startup amps going into the controller once running it drops to around 18 amps the meter used was a variance of about */- 2 amps. wire in the clamp is from the battery positive to the right of that wire is ground from battery the next 3 wires to the right are each phase of the 3-phase motor and the 2 wires far left one gets power after a relay and the other ground through a resister to control the speed of the compressor. as you can see in the wiring diagram below the system is self-contained and not hard to upfit. just need to make some hoses and fit relays a voltage suppressor and capacitor which is all sold by Bergstrom Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I was not disbelieving that the unit consumes only 20 amps, I'm disbelieving that a unit that only consumes 20 amps has the capacity to effect much in the way of cooling. Online research of systems people have actually installed in smaller 2 seater vehicles suggests to me we need at least 6,000 BTUs of peak cooling power for hot, sunny days. Most automotive aftermarket suppliers will tell you really want more like 8-12,000 BTU capacity, even for a small car. All the compressors I have looked at (scroll type, rotary type, with and without variable speed controllers) that have sufficient fluid moving capacity to work with the Ferrari OEM condenser and evaporator (a very important consideration) have current requirements in the range of 700-1200 watts (~60-100 amps @12vdc) to reach their max cooling capacities of 6,000-8,000 BTUs. So they are falling into the range of 8-10A/1000 BTU. Which is why I'm so skeptical that you believe you can cool a car with 20A @12VDC.
"Which is why I'm so skeptical that you believe you can cool a car with 20A @12VDC" I totally agree; it sounds impossible with any AC tech I am familiar with. But I don't know what the "latest" in electric motors might be. I'm sure the system described is able to cool SOMETHING but whether that "something" includes a 3x8 cockpit on a sunny, summer day is the issue. Also, there is a big difference between being able to maintain a cool environment and the ability to cool a car that's been sitting in the sun. FWIW, when I got my 328's stock system to work the best that it could, which was using Duracool as a refrigerant, it was able to cool the cabin/keep it acceptably cool on a warm CLOUDY summer day in the southern USA but it could not do it with the sun shining into the cabin. On a sunny summer day it worked great before around 11AM and after 4PM!!
A quick Google seacrh show Bergstrom A/C elec using 65 Ampere with 240A Inrush current Can you share the other details specifiations of yours please? I do not see a 20A Bergstrom
I have. You can get them out of EVs and Priuses too. Bigger alt needed (140A units are out there), Bigger wire running to the battery, etc... all that upgrade would allow installation in the front compartment.
They run on 12V? When I checked this a couple of years ago, if I remember correctly, the Tesla AC compressor ran on 480VDC (yes, four hundred and eighty volts)!
Yes. An electric compressor has been tried in a 308 and doesnt work well. The problem is not with the compressor. How to make you 308 ac work like a modern car. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/modern-ac-in-a-308.658438/
I remember that he said the first compressor didn't work well and he was going to install the 6000BTU but I don't remember ever hearing that the 6000 worked as hoped - able to cool the car in the summer/sitting in the sun.
here are tech details (absorbed intensity) is temp and other factors dependent. and i found that having a more efficient cooling of the condenser the better cooler air is coming out of the ducts / A/C removes heat / and when looking up the components i am talking about these motors are not (BRUSH DC UNITS) they are (BRUSHLESS DC which is a controlled AC aka PULSE MODULATED SIGNAL) to run the motor in 3 phase just like a regular AC motor has a small influx of power and then stabilize. Image Unavailable, Please Login
What that data is telling us is that the 12v unit has a max cooling capacity of 2000W (6800 BTU) and to get that max cooling will take 65Amps of input power, which makes sense. Sure, the motor will pull less amps when the cooling loads are low, but 20 amps input isn't going to cool a hot car, and probably can't keep an already cool car cool. The brushless AC motor doesn't change any of this.
brushless motors have current limiting so the in rush is controlled not to blow anything up, i work with this system in heavy equipment which cab square footage is almost the same as my 308's the equipment have much larger windows and bi fold doors which are big gaps and a lot of air lost, even still these cabs are cooled down to a very comfortable temp (not 32degs but a nice 50degs) the biggest difference i see is the condenser on the heavy equipment is 1/3 the size of the one in my car so (on the system i am looking at) i know the more you can to remove the heat out of the condenser the lower and better temps in the cab, in the end there's only one way to find out and that is put it in and seeing how it works which i am probably going to do and i will let ever one know, going to leave all the hoses in the car till i know it works if it does then remove
Yep I purchased the new upgrade AC compressor from GT Car Parts, which comes with the new mounting bracket which just slips into place without issues... I think I paid somewhere around $750 ish
The compressor itself is not going to make much difference cooling-wise. The Sanden-type allegedly pulls a bit less HP than the US York type but either one has plenty of capacity to cool the car IF the evaporator/air distribution was better. I was interested in the idea of an E-compressor because it would make the hose lines much shorter and remove the standard compressor from the engine compartment. OTOH, I have to admit I'm not wild about occupying the spare tire space with an E compressor which seems to be the common method used. I like having a spare tire! Other than making cam belt changes easier, I now tend to think there is no advantage to installing an E compressor in a 3x8. Admittedly that advantage may be worthwhile to some folks. TBH, I haven't found removing/reinstalling the compressor to be THAT big a deal every 5 years (my personal cam belt replacement interval).
The compressor of mine was removed at my request by my mechanic because it no longer produced cold air and I don't want receive another invoice for a recharge for nothing. May my 328 is now little bit faster without this heavy accessory
as far as easier belt replacement is nice, but my car is still R12, i have about 3 bottles left (90pounds) which will last a long time i only have to add a few pounds 1 or 2 times a year depending, the funny thing is i bought my car because it's very analog (yes CIS is analog too me) and i keep looking for ways to modernize some of the systems i really need just to fix it the way it was made lol
Yeah... I too thought about staying with R12 when I was doing my restoration project, however the original York compressor's clutch wasn't engaging which meant that I had to find a new clutch. I wasn't going down that rabbit hole, so I opted for a new compressor replacement and I bought one from GT Car Parts. Since I replaced the entire AC system with new components, hoses, dryer, etc it was a good thing to go with R134 - cheaper!!!!
